Review: Manker U11. Built in charger, compact 18650 Eswitch Light. 3.6A on Turbo, Beamshots added.

Welcome. If you mean the Manker, then yeah the bezel retaining ring just threads out. If you mean the Nitecore I would imagine so but I haven’t tried. I can get back to you on that if you need me to.

More like ruined us. Nothing is close to what she can cook up

Use the code KUNGHEI to bring the price to $28.06 shipped

Helpful first post! Thanks

Could you please explain this a little more? How do you access the direct drive turbo mode? Do you have to go into programming mode by holding down the button for 10 seconds, then cycling to direct drive everytime?

Yes, the Direct drive turbo as the manufacturer calls it, is the highest level on turbo mode selection. They also have it hidden in the “Pro” mode blinky section.

If you set turbo to level one or two, then you need more light than that, you would go to the direct current turbo. If you leave the turbo program set to level 3 (highest), it is the same (in brightness and amp draw) as the “direct current” hidden turbo.

The diagrams are clear on this in the book, I am not the best explain-er here, but hope this description helps…

Manker’s UI is somewhat similar to Nitecore HC30 - i.e. short click from OFF turns on the lowest mode, 0.5s click - to the last used, BUT Nitecore has yet another option: long (>1.0s) click turns on the highest mode. This last option is what I miss on the U11, a lack of instant turbo access. Perhaps Manker will implement it the next version…

I’ve had my U11 for several weeks now but I really didn’t use it much because that angry blue cool white tint it came with. Not sure why I waited so long to fix it, but I pulled that stock mcpcb out this evening and reflowed a 219c on there. Super easy mod but it made the light so much more pleasant to use.

Current increased too. My sample read 3.72 amps at the tail with the XP-L. Just swapping to the 219c bumps that to 4.08 amps in my light. This little thing is quite a beast.

I have one left and may replace the 5D that is in there now… I replaced the 7B as I wanted it for another light… But then again the 5D has a nice halogen straw color…

It is very easy to reflow this LED, but I wish they would at least put a NW in there stock…

Is it sad that my order has not left China and I want to modify it already. Curious as to the size used to replace…20mm? Did it need to be trimmed or is it a drop in and tack sort of modification? I’ll have a month to prepare lol

Has anybody made it to the driver yet?

Same here. Did you ordered from FT? I ordered mine on CNY a month ago and now they tell me the item is not in stock.

Production not able to keep with demand I was notified by FT.

The board in there is easy enough to reflow a bare emitter on to. If you want to do a Noctigon, I think the 16mm will fit and the screws will go into the slots on the Noctigon to hold it in place. The reflector presses on to the board, so the Noctigon may have to be sanded thinner though.

A 20mm Noctigon may have to be filed down on one side to make a pass for the emitter wires… it would work as well with the same caveat that the Noctigon may be too thick…

Pilotdog68, I have not made it to the driver, it seems the switch has to be removed to get further into the light and then it should all come out easily as the interior “chassis” is threaded into the body. I like the stock driver enough that with only an emitter swap, it is good to go for me…

Yeah, like ReManG said I didn’t use a noctigon. I just reflowed a bare 219c into the factory board. Its easy to do in this light.

I’ve noticed that there are some “2016 edition U11” on ebay, etc. - do you know what has been changed? UI perhaps?

I just received mines today. Mine is not waterproof. Water gets in from the head, goes behind the reflector, and into the electronics.

Anyone got theirs wet? I think mine might be missing an o-ring around the reflector. There’s an o-ring between the reflector and lens only. Is there supposed to be another around the reflector between those grooves?

The O-ring should be in that groove around the reflector, and be thick enough for the lens to squish out when the bezel tightens the lens down. It should be like this, but it sounds like it is not. Use isopropyl alcohol 90% to dry the electronics out, a small sprayer and shake it out, the alcohol should pull the water out and dry it with some heat (hairdryer, radiator, etc). Take the battery out first of course…

@awes- I am not aware of any changes to anything for a 2016 model. Could just be eBay advertising by the seller…

I had to tighten up the steel crown down with a spanner wrench, until it was almost flush with the body, took the light in the shower and sprayed it from all possible sides also left it in about 2 inches of water and no water got inside the light at all.

Maybe the Oring is not seated properly or is dirty, I would open up, inspect, lightly lube and reinstall.

Thanks. So just one o-ring? If that’s the case, I think my bezel ring is just not getting tight enough. My bezel ring does not have those notches to tighten down.

I think I’ll have to ask for a replacement.