What browser are you using? I just checked after I read your post, and it looks like the images are gone if I use Firefox, but ok if I use Chrome. Looking at View Source, the links to the images are still there in both cases (Firefox and Chrome), so I donât know why the images are not showing in Firefox.
EDIT: And in IE, the images are broken icons (which is ironic, since I host the images at onedrive).
Oh man, I sure hope this counts as a mod.
It would mean our first real mod.
thanks to Meteor M43 color changing - 14 pics
On the video there you can see first it turns red.
And well we have ths ugly ultrafire with a red bezel.
Who would put a red bezel there? I would have never bought it, a AE seller thought he could send it instead of the one I ordered that he has run out of.
So I removed everything and put it on the gasflame
When the head was red I took it out and continued with the rest.
And when it looked like it would fit nicely with the red head, turned off the fire.
It now looks much better imho and it was a very nice experiment.
The head actually looks little more red then on the pic.
The tube is really, really nice looking shining bronze, REALLY beautifull! (Hope you picked up on the fact that I really like this color ;))
Does anybody now what causes this color change?
Time, well but does that
A- mean it gets hotter
B- at a certain temp the change starts and progresses till temp is lowered
A meaning with controlled temp the nice bronze color could be achieved without the risk of pushing it beyond towards the beige and even grey (I would love to have the alu X5/X6 in this shiny bronze color, but not in grey.)
The Miller, that is great. Now I gotta go cook a flashlight.
Any idea of the temp the change takes. Wondering if it could be done in OVEN?
If not I am off to the RV
No we were just amazed by the changing color, totally forgot to measure the temp /insert face palm/
I hope somebody knows a little more about this process, I find not a lot googling on the phone now.
Iâm thinking of doing the top portion only of my new TR-J20, it needs some character. What do you guys think about just doing the top part that is flat and says Trustfire, it unscrews from the finned area. Whoa! Or maybe just do the finned area and leave the top and battery section blackâŚ.
wight (or anyone),
Can you try viewing that post again in Firefox and in IE. It should work now with Chrome, Firefox, and IE. I think that the latter two didnât like the image links being SSL. Itâs post #144 in the thread (What did you mod today? - #140 by ohaya).
Iâm on chrome and the images are fine. Safari too for that matter.
You can only bake the cheap anodized lights. HAIII anodizing will not change colour.
Mt TF JR-J20 is cheap ano isnât it?
Sorry PD, a little OT.
Itâs a modding thread, I donât think weâre off-topic yet
My wife just got a deep fat fryer, what temp do I need to set it on 
I found this statement also in an old thread on the other forum. I canât find real info why this color changing is happening. You know HA3 wonât work, but why?
And bummer since that would mean no shiny brass colored X5/X6 
But wait, for me all this started with this thread:
And the specs of the Meteor clearly say it IS HAIII!
:-/
Hi,
Thanks. I think/hope they should be ok for all browsers now. I think that the SSL links is what might have messed it up.
True HAIII anodizing shouldnât turn colour when baked. I donât think there is any true HAIII that isnât black. Time to question the specs. Iâve blasted real black HAIII with a blow torch with no change at all.
Well too bad, luckely we got the cheap ones! YAY!
Flashlight burning on a stove is very nice to do.
We did it again with the Ultrafire C8.
Tricky, 4 parts that all behave different because size and shape.
The color of the different parts is not a 100% match, we stopped a little too early, so the really brass that the tube of yesterdays had was not reached, however, this looks a lot like copper now.
Also hard to get in nice on picture
Before and after:
Iâm in a modding streak I guess. I had promised an Oslon SSL80 4500K 96CRI build in my test thread, and this need was emphasized by Ouchyfoot in his Oslon try-out thread. So I thought letâs make it a nice triple. I had an Eagle Eye X2 spare that had been my bike-light until replaced by the BLF-A6, and one of the shorty tubes from ReManGâs effort fitted it so this has become a 18350 shorty:
Specs from front to rear: clear o-ring instead of green stock one, stock glass lens, Carclo narrow optic, 3xSSL80 4500K 96CRI, triple Noctigon, 20mm diameter x 8.7mm aluminium spacer, flattened brass pill, BLF-A6 driver with 680Ohm bleeder over C1, silicon wire bypassed driver spring, flatted copperwire made into a ring as extra spacer between pill and battery tube because the battery tube is just a bit too short for a 18350 battery, intl-outdoor Be-Cu short spring on tailboard, PD68 switchboard with white small Omten, PD68 dumb six-led lighted washer with 3x 22KOhm resistors and yellow/orange/red leds, translucent silicon tailcover.
I think it has become one of my cleanest mods, every problem was solved with a quality solution.
Measured without the tail it draws around 8 amps on a purple Efest 18350 and about the same with the black Keeppower IMR. 8 amps is a bit too much, I was aiming for 6, but the switch will lower the current somewhat, and the battery drainage will solve it as well 
The turbo output at start was 860 djozz-lumen, 725 after 30 seconds. Moon is 0.2 lumen.
Some efficiency numbers. At turbo the efficiency is a mere 26 lumen/W. Even budget cheapies (from the time when they were still using Creeâs btw) did 40 lm/W. It is no wonder, the leds at 2,7A are already on the flat bit at max of the output curve, SSL80 leds have small 1x1mm dies, and you can not make 96CRI for free. At low currents it is much better: level3 is 32 lumen with 56 lm/W, level 4 is 101 lumen with 50 kumen/W.
The tint/colour reproduction is outstanding, less rosy as the Nichia 219A 4500K 92CRI with which I just compared it, but more plain white, I like it even better.
And the tail-illumination is wonderful, a bit less bright than last mod which is much better at night, more an indicator than a bright beacon. The moon mode draws combined 9.6mA because of the bleeder resistor, this limits the moon setting to about 3 days. When off, the tail leds on a fresh battery draw 0.3 mA, assuming that the current lowers a bit when the voltage gets lower, it will drain the battery in about 4 months.
looks like you built a campfire under the tail, nice!
Now if TK could get those to flickerâŚ.
Thatâs some unique looking C8 youâve made there :laughing:
Just for laughter i did tested this âbakingâ treatment on a blue convoy s2+ middle piece that i had left from a 18350 conversion
It started from a blue to a weird color that⌠it had just a little blue but mostly gray
Then few minutes later it started to shift colours again, this time towards golden tint, and for some reason i like it
And some before/after
I might do this to the rest of the flashlight, just to make it a bit different, because why not
Nice mod Jos!
Bobbymk, that is the best color, we should have kept the C8 on the flames a little longer.
You know this YouTube channel Simple cooking?
He uses a song, simple cooking as lyrics, my son and me are running around singing âflashlight cookingâ
My wife asked to do hers as well.
And an yellow golden tube we just left on to see where it would stop, a shiny grey.
Next up a SRK
Baking ano goes back a bit here:
With the âOrange Dryâ thread here:
âŚand promptly followed up by the âDry Orangeâ thread here:
Iâve baked a couple of my lights but donât really prefer the change. I have used it to separate lights when I have more than one host of the same style, and selectively bake a bezel to make one stand out from the other.