Update: Keygos Admits To Using Different Parts On Some Keygos KE-5 Flashlights

My second one is not even in the same ball park as my first. My first one on high I would bet money is around 200 lumens brighter than my second. On low it's probably as bright as my second one on medium.

Have you checked the amperage of the bright one on medium? I would be curious to know? On medium mine will pull right at 1a on a fully charged Xtar

I couldn't tell you for it won't cycle through the modes. It stays on high. I even tried putting the tailcap back on and went to medium mode and then turned if off since the light has memory. But once I do that and retest at tailcap it apparently goes back to the high mode and around 3.80 amps.

That's strange....

Here you can see the difference with your eyes for yourself between the two.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4595

Yep, your first one was what I was expecting. Still a nice light though

@ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS:

Good to hear, that it ends for you so good :)

So I guess it's the luck of the draw on which one we'll get when we order one. That's a shame I got one on order now, I hope it's as good as everyone says. I just got the Keygos KE-2 and it seems bright.

Thanks buddy. I just hope I get another good one like my first. I wished I had a light meter. I would love to see what this thing registered on a good one.

It's going to my son. He can keep the other one as well.

Here's my Keygos KE-5 , it was a bit drizzly and foggy. This is the 2A version. Hope you liked the laser show. LOL

Just got mine today - ordered from redlog on 11/1/2011. Part of the SS Bezel is not polished (they missed a spot about a half inch long). And of course it has the green circuit board so its underdriven - measured around 2.2A at the tailcap with a freshly charged protected trustfire flame from DX @ 4.19v. About the same as my Ultrafire X2 with a tighter hotspot and not quite as bright at a distance. Seems to weigh slightly less. Still a nice light - I like it.

Edit: The clip for the TA21 fits.

Yeah, its a shame they nerfed it with that driver - the Trustfire C8 would be a better deal. I look at this way - when/if the driver unglues itself I'll probably try to replace it with the 2.8A driver or maybe someone knows where we could get a 3.5A+ driver for it?

If it is >3A does it make the XM-L less effeient?

gorann,

I don't know if that is true.

Mine read 3.82 amps last nite at the tailcap with a fully charged Xtar 18700 2600MAH battery. I have got about the same with some Trustfire flame batteries. There may be a particular point that a XM-L led can't de driven much past to make it much brighter, but I don't think 3 amps is it. The Catapult V3 I believe is driven at 3.5amps.

I will forward this thread to Miss Erica at Keygos.

If it does cycle by half-presses on the clickie, it should also cycle by momentary disconnects of one of the ammeter probes. Some drivers need two disconnects for the first mode change if the light has been on for more than a few seconds.

Yes Keygos are now reading our threads here.

I have already expressed concerns over different parts and substandard performance. I told Keygos that customers need to know and expect what they are buying, and Keygos should keep to one constant build and be consistent, even if it means a slightly higher price. Customers need to be sure that they are buying a good light and not lottery light. But saying that and reading a lot of posts, it seems ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS was the better exception.

I think Keygos could do better publishing correct information, and give some stats, then we know what to expect. But still from looking at the videos they look good lights even if powered at 2amp.

Now don't quote me on this. But I seem to remember reading (I think here in this forum) that one member tested this with Cree XML-T6 and went way above 3.0Amps. But above 3.5Amp there was no real additional output. There was a big flat until much higher Amps and then there was an increase. It seemed that 3.0 to 3.5Amps was the most efficient with a 0.50Amp loss.

Like I said just what I seem to remember so don't shoot me if it is not fact.

This seems like the driver is malfunctioning - is it possible that yours is broken at 3.8A and all of ours are working correctly at ~2A? Maybe the battery is pressing too hard on the driver and shorting something? Does anyone else have one running at 3.8(and is it the black driver)? Like Chris01942 said, we need the specs from Keygos to see what the drive current is supposed to be before we make any conclusions.

Edit: If it turns out yours is broken, tell us how so we can break ours the same way

I don't know. I think it used to change modes doing tailcap readings. The only way I could get it to switch modes was rocking the probe quickly that is on the negative end of the battery off the battery completely and touch the back of probe on the top of the tube above the threads and quickly back off tube and back on the negative end of battery. And that don't work all the time either. I think earlier I got it to go to medium mode but the reading would fluctuate up to 1.5 down to about .8 amps. How accurate that is I don't know. And it could be these Xtar batteries are a little long for this light. But they work. I do remember getting a tailcap reading as high as 3.76 amps I believe with the Trustfire flame battery. I do know this light is one bright SOB up close and on a wall. Ranks right there with my TR-1200. But it won't throw better than the TR-1200.