Today I decided to mod an old friend… guess the model and year of this light! 
This pic might give you a hint as to how old is it…
Look at that cutting edge led (Back in the day!)
Had to drill that delrin retention disk to get it out
Yep that is an old led, do you remember what it is? Think hard now!
Now, what to put inside… Decisions, decisions, decisions!
One thing I never understood is why dafuq did jetbeam think this was a good idea! a frigging HOLE right in the center where the led goes!!! WTF!!!
We have a winner!
Here is the results!
Left is this Jetbeam Jet II IBS on highest setting, at the right is the Manker T01 on turbo, Not bad for an 8 year old flashlight!
Well, I took a Nitecore EA41 Pioneer, removed all the guts, made a custom heatsink from some copper, had Richard over at MtnElectronics make a momentary switch MtnMax driver running 12v at 2 amps, and stuck it all in the housing with an XHP-35 HI and 4x14500’s. Now I have an EA41 with an XHP-35 HI in it!
I’m sorry, I had to giggle a little bit on this one… 
Some pictures surely intensify the feeling. 
Don’t you just hate it when a mod doesn’t go as you planned?
I say hit it with some MAP gas and see it if responds…LOL
Crazy stuff. What are your thoughts so far?
I really like it. it went from 35k candela stock to now just over 77k. It gets pretty warm in high, but it’s very usable in the lower modes. I’ve been wanting to make a light with that led in it since it was released. I happened to find that the ea41 had the batteries in series and BOOM, that was all she wrote.
Trustfire Mini 02 XP-L Hi triple
Nice mod CRX, did you use the stock twisty driver?
Thanks. Yes it still has the stock driver but i will most likely change that to a FET to put those LEDs to good use. }
It will be hot in there!!
For what that is worth, nice about the stock driver is that works with a cr123 primary (at reduced output)
started working on ZY - T08 pill
1st step done - removed the led shelf
!
!
A Convoy C8 with the alu pill and 16mm star.
Sliced dome XHP-50 directdrive, forward clicky, does get a bit hot but not to hot to hold with two black Keeppower 18350.
Runtime is not that great on two 18350, and I don’t have any protected in that size.
So I tried this :
The tube from the Javelot is a bit longer in the treads but it works, so now I can use two 18500 or the extension with two 18650.
One hour of cooking…
And half an hour extra.
Resistor mod with a single R100 and dedomed XML2 3D.
79.560 Cd (564) . It was the 27.739 Cd (333m) first generation TK35, with XML T6.
That illuminated switch on the SRK looks real nice, CRX.
Yesterday I designed another 3AA to D adapter. Parallel configuration. It’s designed with solid brass plates as the contacts, isolated and retained by G10 composite board.
Very nice hoop
Hoop…Like the JKK35. Very solid design AND a D cell. Very Nice!!! No pics from me. A friend gave me a piece of junk twist zoom $7.99. I changed a few things and turned him on to an 18650 with charger. Awful. Another older NRA special. Made him a side button model. I would not show this to anyone but it is a little better than what he had. lol
Upgraded my ol BLF SD10 (Lumintop) to a FET+1, ATtiny85w/Narsil, added support for the green LED behind the button with a 470 ohm resistor off of MCU pin #3 (ON/OFF capability), 22 AWG wires. I have only one TrustFire 32650 just for this light, and pulled the protection board off, covered over the wire connection to the top (batt+) w/Kapton tape. Now I got a high performance, high capacity cell for this setup.
Guess what? Pulls 7.5A now (@tail w/clamp meter) on a XM-L2 U2 3C, which was the original stock LED, now on a 20mm Noctigon. Springs bypassed of course w/22 AWG wire.
The green LED is used as locator - ON when the light is OFF, OFF when the light is ON. Also use it to indicate low voltage via blinking.
7.5amp? I have never seen any XM or XP emitter over 6 amps, and you got 7.5??!
I’ve gotten 6.0A to 6.3A regularly on XM-L2 T6 4C’s - reported on this many times over the last 2 years maybe, and that on a regular DMM w/heavy gauge wires. The clamp meters are always higher on FET drivers. I did do a regualr DMM reading at the tail as well and it was much lower - 6.5-6.9A, not sure off hand.
I’ve gotten over 6A with 22 AWG or 20 AWG wires as well. The T6 4C’s have had a low Vf, allowing this. This is confirmed by RMM. It’s all about the Vf…
This 32650 cell is awesome though. Think I checked a high performing 18650 and got much lower, in the 6’s on the clamp meter…. I’ll have to check/record this eve, head to head.
Since I really like the 4C tint, I’ve built a bunch of FET based 4C lights and pretty much all of them tested over 6A. I bought the XM-L2 T6 4C’s from Simon, MtnE, and maybe another source, not sure.
I wonder what I’m doing wrong/differently… is that always with the sir800dp? (or whatever the model# is, you know what I mean)
I have literally never gotten over 6amps from a FET-driven single emitter (except 219c)
Hhmm, I only use the SIR800DP now, but not always. Back in the day (dawn of FET's, comfy style), we used the "original" Vishay FET and pretty sure I'd regularly get over 6A, but that was with the early, better XM-L2's. Now, probably can't buy the high performing, low Vf XM-L2's. I suspect Simon still has the old stock of T6 4C's though, but only guessing.
Other tricks: only high performing cell charged to 4.21-4.23v. must use a clamp meter for better results -- actually more accurate results. Also must clean DMM wire ends regularly (oxide builds up) - re-solder/clean and/or use NO-OX-ID or equivalent.
I'm sure mainly the problem is the XM-L2 LED's you are using - nothing wrong with them, but the older ones were much better in high amps. Of course I'd take a U4 1C any day for max output! Beats an old U2 1A out at 1 full amp less, so best of both.
I've never gotten over 6A on a XP-L or XP-G/XP-G2 either on a straight single cell FET.