Courui D01 mod thread, my take on the process and it lives. mattlward

You can use painters tape, and tape the top and bottom of the reflector up, and if you have a drill or air grinder with sanding pads sand/grind the base for clearance. Or you have a lot of hand filing and sanding? Might have to open up the diameter of your heat sink step.I have used these for xm-l2’s Maxtoch XM / XHP50 31.5mm Copper MCPCB and these for xpl’s http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_64&product_id=401

you started a nice project.

It lives! Updated in OP!

great work ,kaidomain reflector ?:slight_smile:
i am interesting for the contact board is they are still available pm for price and shipping to europe if you can ship,thanks.

Looks very clean, Matt.

I’m tempted to order a few of your contact boards in my next OSH order.

We have a new guy at work, & he’s into camping, etc., & is chasing a thrower.

I’m going to lend him my D01, & I have a feeling I’ll be building a few more…. :slight_smile:

OP updated!

Looking good!

Wight, does that look like proper focus? I am not really sure how that hole it the beam should react when focus is correct. I am going to do the tail switch next and I need to rebuild Star momentary to remove the 0 output mode and reflash the driver. I am thinking about using that copper strip to attach to the star and extend thru the headsink with heatshrink tube to insulate it and then solder the wires in the driver compartment. Should allow the reflector to sit a little lower.

From my experiance you will get best focus if the reflector is sitting directly on the MCPCB and the centering ring is inside refl. opening…

Hah, you’re asking the wrong member! I saw your question and I’m just as curious as you are about the answer. Learning about proper LED focusing techniques has been on my to-do list for a while now.

It’s probably reasonable that the properly focused beam has a doughnut close up.

I did specifically ask lightme about a focusing technique mentioned in this thread: Convoy S2 Long Range Thrower Mod The response is in post #23 and honestly I’m not sure that I have a handle on it yet. Before asking more questions I thought I’d give it a try and I haven’t had an opportunity to do that yet.

Something like this

orig. thred

Matt, have you seen the post I made about D01 focus testing?

I did, I think I need the reflector a little lower. That is why I am considering using the copper strap instead of wire to the star.

And so the “high rise” driver mounting method is born? Very nice job!

Thanks Hoop, I love the way that driver mounted up. I did not want to have to glue it into place and my skills with Eagle were not good enough or I would have integrated the driver right on the contact board.

Yea, it looks great.

Might be worth pointing out to folks that high rise mounting should probably only be done with drivers that don’t need really need to be heatsinked, such as FET or FET+1.

Yes, did not think to mention that. A 7134 driver, or some of the buck/boost drivers might not like it. Although, with 4 copper straps to draw heat it might not be a huge problem. Not sure. I love the way it worked out here!

Well, come to think of it, I did a mod where I sort of “free floated” an 8x 7135 driver, so virtually no heatsinking, and haven’t had an issue yet. I should have potted it though.

@mattlward
You had asked (elsewhere) about designing the ears for your board in Eagle and I think the answer (and perhaps further discussion) is best placed here.

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I’d try 4 Arcs (the icon below Text, above Polygon)
Points A, B, C and D are the points where the Arcs meet.
Start with a guiding line (circle, layer 19Unrouted) the size of your board without the ears.

First ear:
Start with the ear on the left, 1 Arc, layer 20Dimension, halfcircle from A to B, the ends have same x-value (they are on a vertical line)
Adapt the distance A to B to your need, keep a halfcircle of 180°, keep A and B symmetrical to the center of the guiding circle

Second ear:
Copy the ear, rightclick to flip, place this ear to the right, the ends on the guiding circle (on C and D).
C has the same y-value as A (they are on a horizontal line). Same for D and B.

Upper Arc:
layer 20Dimension, start Arc at point A, pull to D (you get a circle on the guiding circle), 1st leftclick.
Then pull back to C, the Arc stays on the guiding circle and only gets smaller, a 2nd leftclick sets the Arc.

Lower Arc:
Copy upper arc, rightclick to flip, place from B to D.

Add layer1 and you get something like this. I wouldn’t guarantee that Oshpark produces this result, but I think on the BLF SRK FET driver with its rectangular “ears” it did work out well. In theory Oshpark cuts out everything outside the dimension layer.

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Hint: If you want to (only) modify the curve of the Arc (or a Wire), hold Ctrl and then leftclick the Arc/Wire and move

Thanks, I will try that method.

Thanks….