I'm knocking out the old C3 as it keeps flickering and going out.
Down to 17 lights now. I expect the AA-S1 and S10 won't see another half hour.
If you can add the times to the lumens table would be the summum.
Thanks in advance for other (and as always, I'm sure, great) pharaonic work.
Not a problem - the times may not be all that accurate as I will have to sleep tonight but I will record what i can.
First light retired at 89 minutes, Smallsun ZY-C85. Cell voltage down to 0.85V
It is really a 14500 light that happens also to be able to do NiMH. It works a lot better with a 14500
Uniquefire S10 at 105 minutes - cell voltage down to 0.84V
Tank007 E07 at 108 minutes - cell voltage down to 0.82V
Uniquefire AA-S1 at 110 minutes - 0.87V
New Ultrafire C3 at 111 minutes - 0.85V
I'm surprised that the Trustfire R5-A3 is still chugging along and is the brightest of them - I thought it would be among the first to give up.
Here's a picture at 90 minutes
im hoping its winter time over there. im sure u are heating up ur living room lol
EastwardYJ J09 150 minutes - cell voltage 0.84V
Trustfire R5-A3 164 minutes - cell voltage 0.85V
Not officially winter here yet, but the heating is on. Most of these guys don't get hot unless used with a 14500.
I've also been surprised at the runtime of the R5-A3, especially on the lower setting and how bright it remains.
Let me guess....did you bought it at Lightake?
Let´s see if they will offer 1$ discount coupon on your next purchase to "solve" the problem..................(as they did with me) jajajajajaj
EDIT:
Now I am even more dissaponited...
I tried to use the discount coupon of 1$ they gave me. I placed an order of 2USD, inserted the coupon and the system said "Sorry, this 1$ coupon discount is only valid for orders above 5USD, please insert another"
Inaceptable
I'll not say till I hear from the distributor concerned. At this point, I don't want to have any influence over anyone else - I want to see how they handle it.
I would regard the behaviour mentioned as unacceptable - I'm looking for a refund or replacement.
Quite deliberately, the account name and email I use are not the ones I use here.
We'll see.
Old Ultrafire C3 for flickering and going out - generally behaving like a badly behaved light.
Smallsun ZY-C85. Cell voltage down to 0.85V
Uniquefire S10 at 105 minutes - cell voltage down to 0.84V
Tank007 E07 at 108 minutes - cell voltage down to 0.82V
Uniquefire AA-S1 at 110 minutes - 0.87V
New Ultrafire C3 at 111 minutes - 0.85V
EastwardYJ J09 150 minutes - cell voltage 0.84V
Trustfire R5-A3 164 minutes - cell voltage 0.85V
I think the Hugsby P32 will be next - still 10 lights to go.
There are now two tabs on the spreadsheet - one labelled "With Runtimes".
These are not formal runtimes which would be to 50% output - these numbers are till the light is dim enough to comfortably look into the LED. Official runtimes would be a little shorter. However, once NiMH cells hit a certain level of discharge the voltage and output drop like a rock so there is not a huge difference.
By 1V an NiMH cell is essentially completely discharged.
Hugsby P32 219 minutes - 0.87V
Hey Don, out of all your 1AA lights, what would be your 1AA NiMH Top 5? I ask because I'm looking at putting a Christmas list together of 1AA flashlights for my friends and family. Thank you sir. 
Don, I just wanted to point out that without minimal current draw infos (like, at start and at each hour afterward would be fine), those numbers are not going to be that useful to everyone else. In fact that might be a good thing to do for the spreadsheet in general.
We all know about the variability of the chinese light manufacturing process, and while we can't control for defects/loses through the light body, people can probably get an approximate number for their version/batch by doing a quick draw test linear extrapolation. A few results over time can also help verify if it's the same kind of driver.
IOW, you may have a R5 A3 with 2A draw, but won't necessarily say anything directly about mine which may only get 1A.
Thanks.
And I'm really curious about the headlamp. Did you try it with a 14500? I does say only that battery type on the specs, fwiw.
Between 02:00 and 06:10
BLF DeLight
Akoray K-106
Trustfire F22
Trustfire F25
Both the F22 and the DeLight were still flashing the LED when the battery recovered enough. Battery voltages for all four in the 0.85V range
Still running after 12.5 hours
Powerlight
Ultrafire C3SS
Aurora SH-035
Zebralight H50
and MDXL ultra-cheapo
MDXL cheapie 15 lux / 3 lumens
Aurora SH-035 12 lux / 2 lumens
Zebralight H50 11 lux / 2 lumens but because of its design the lightbox may not be capturing all the light it is putting out.
Ultrafire C3SS 4 lux / 1 lumen
Powerlight <1 lux / not a lot
I can only say that the Akoray K-106 ran for more than 8 hours, likewise the F25 (All the remaining lights were lit when I checked at 2am). Given that the BLF DeLight and the F22 were both flashing I've allocated them a >600 minute runtime.
I do not have the facilities to do this for 20 lights simultaneously.
13hr exactly, the C3 stainless started to flash at me. Voltage 0.85V.