Put me down for 1 s2+ cu-sink, thanks.
Can you make one for Small Sun ZY-T08 and Courui D01 before you make C8 ones ? 
Those look wonderful. Does the copper offer better heat sinking than the stock bras pill?
Copper is a better conductor of heat than brass so the temperature of an led on copper will generally be lower than one on brass. The highest temp is at the diode junction but improving thermal conductivity shunts the heat farther and faster.
Thank you. In that case, put me down for 1 please.
Good to hear! I hope to impress everyone with my mag heatsink.
I am currently making the C8’s and have the copper for D01’s. I will look into the ZY-T08 though!
Yep, like Rufus mentioned, copper’s superior thermal conductivity should offer lower LED junction temperatures, which is pretty important when you are substantially overdriving an LED. Brass isn’t as good of a conductor of heat as either aluminum or copper. Their thermal conductivities are:
C110 Copper: 388 W/(m K)
6061 Aluminum: 167 W/(m K)
C360 Brass: 115 W/(m K)
Brilliant job, but why threads are so square? All convoys except of mid-C8 have standart metric 60 degrees threads.
Thanks. The Convoy’s do have 60 degree triangular threads, but they are not a standard profile; they are truncated, which is to say the tips are cut off. I measured the pitch, pitch diameter, and the OD of the stock heatsink’s thread and reproduced it, after which point I increased the pitch diameter until the slop went away. Because I did not also increase the outside diameter of the heatsink, the result of increasing just the pitch diameter is a wider crest.
There really is a lot of play in the stock threads, and I got rid of it. Now I need to see if they will be too tight for anyone. This is why I am doing a small batch at first.
Not sure that this is best solution
You’ll just have to trust that I know how to make threads, and that I made the only adjustment possible in order to remove most of the slop, which is increasing the pitch diameter.
On my S2+’s (3 of them) these heatsinks install smoothly. They do not bind up or anything.
Ok, what is OD of this pills?
.855” ( 21.72mm )
1 Thank
I`ll take some from the next run.
Are you making a triple pill?
No plans for triples at the moment. I figure the guys with manual lathes can handle that. I’ll focus on the tricky stuff. Feel free to propose something though and I’ll consider it.
Another note regarding the heatsink threads and how they fit: there was quite a bit of dirt and crap in the threads of the heads of my S2+’s…. I cleaned them all out with a small brush before determining fitment.
Maybe you can make SS bezels for good price?
Many people would like to have them but they are out of our abilities.
Hmm, that might be fun. I do intend to make them for Mags at least. If made from 416SS they can be hardened to better than 36 rockwell C. I would need to get a vibratory polishing bowl and some polishing media to give them a proper finish. Wouldn’t want to see any tooling marks on a bezel.
Put me down for one, please!
How much is the shipping to germany!?
First of all, they look very nicely made! I would really like to see also a tripple version. A shame the International shipping is so high in your country. 
But with the recent steady development of the driver firmware (great work there), I have no good feeling about permanently solder a driver to the pill.
Why not use the retaining ring approach of the original pill? It should be even possible to reuse the threaded retaining ring of the original brass pill.
Maybe a internal snap ring could be used to retain the driver, I have done this on my X6 copper pressed in pill, retaining a 26mm Mtn FETDD driver. It was easier cutting a internal ring groove, then making a threaded retaining ring and threading the pill? Just a thought?