[review] Astrolux E01 / E02

it is!

Thanks for the review. I might be able to work with this ui and mode spacing.
It’s a bit wacky like people have said, but since they didnt require you to hold switch to turn on, I’m gonna give this one a try.

Thanks! I suppose we could layout an OSHPark driver to fit, with the holes for the vertical board. Looks like the vertical board is supported well by the side slots in the pill area of the body, so pressure on the switch won’t bend/break the board. Not the easiest to mod, but possible with a custom driver board. They certainly could have used a more standard design to make modding easier…
Can you measure parasitic drain?

as stated in the review…

i tried, but the light came back on high when i connected my 400 mA fused DMM :frowning:
in Amps config it barley toggles 0.001 - 0.000A

Ooops, yep. I think the Olight S15 or S1 I measured at 0.001 mA - that was the lowest I’ve seen.

Forgot to ask - looks like nothing is holding down the driver on the spring side? So is it loose or just press fit in place, and counting on the end of the battery tube to hold it down and make the electrical connection for the batt- signal?

correct
the driver is fixed and contacted by the batterytube alone

Is the led genuine? Looks a little weird in the photo’s.

Thanks for the very nice review!

First I was very curious about this light, but now “low” mode (around 40-80 lumens) and no low voltage protection is a definite no-go for me.

Martin some of the picture won’t appeared, or is just my isp blocked it?

hmm all of the (except the first one) are hosted on photobucket.com

It appeared now when i use apn :smiley:

The clip is on the head And there is no low battery protection :-/

Thanks M4D M4X, great job!!!

About projection beam, I think it’s very similar to my Zebralight SC62w:

Sorry, still confused about this. Not sure what you mean by "Amps config". You should be able to operate the light, and turn it off from the side switch while having the DMM connected for low amp measuring - this should then give you a true parasitic drain measure in mA. Sometimes the e-switch firmware will delay or pause a few seconds before going into full sleep mode. In my version of e-switch firmware, I delay a full 10 secs before I drop into sleep mode. I've measured Olights, a NiteCore MH20, and a SWM C20C this way, plus a few others. The MH20 measured about 0.027 mA, while the SWM C20C was about 0.009 mA. The Olights were lower at 0.002 and 0.001 mA.

if the light is ON while you loosen the tailcap it memorizes that mode

i was on high (near 4A) when i unscrewed the tailcap to connect my 400mA fused DMM

brzzzzzzz :wink:

clear now?

Forget it - I’ll never understand. I’ll try replacing the driver anyway, just have to figure out how to rig up the vertical switch board.

Sorry if this has been answered already.

Is there pwm on any of the modes?

How resistant is it to switching on in your pocket. Not using lockout.

Is there anyway to get to high quickly?

Do they come with the clips as per the first pics in the review?

Definitely not an A6 driver as described. Seems rather a let down and too pricey even on a gb to be worth buying just to totally strip and rebuild.

@ Tom:

imagine the light in a living room
turn the dimmer switch to full brightness
unscrew the bulb
reconnect
-> it starts as high as it was before

better? :smiley:

@Chicken:
i look tomorrow for PWM - but did not notice (but didnt pay attention)
will not switch on from walking , but when you sit on it it might switch on
nope - double clicks go to disco modes
yes
true :frowning:

So what? As long as you can use the switch and turn it off, them measure.

i have to get a new fuse for the DMM first :wink: