Ooops, yep. I think the Olight S15 or S1 I measured at 0.001 mA - that was the lowest I’ve seen.
Forgot to ask - looks like nothing is holding down the driver on the spring side? So is it loose or just press fit in place, and counting on the end of the battery tube to hold it down and make the electrical connection for the batt- signal?
Sorry, still confused about this. Not sure what you mean by "Amps config". You should be able to operate the light, and turn it off from the side switch while having the DMM connected for low amp measuring - this should then give you a true parasitic drain measure in mA. Sometimes the e-switch firmware will delay or pause a few seconds before going into full sleep mode. In my version of e-switch firmware, I delay a full 10 secs before I drop into sleep mode. I've measured Olights, a NiteCore MH20, and a SWM C20C this way, plus a few others. The MH20 measured about 0.027 mA, while the SWM C20C was about 0.009 mA. The Olights were lower at 0.002 and 0.001 mA.
imagine the light in a living room
turn the dimmer switch to full brightness
unscrew the bulb
reconnect
-> it starts as high as it was before
better?
@Chicken:
i look tomorrow for PWM - but did not notice (but didnt pay attention)
will not switch on from walking , but when you sit on it it might switch on
nope - double clicks go to disco modes
yes
true
Ohhh! I got a Fluke DMM I was using - didn’t realize the fuse can get blown for exceeding the max amps rating. Pretty sure I exceeded it’s max - the display went blank or dashed, hhmmm…