Time to MoD the Jetbeam RRT01

I want to swap out the emitter, its TOO BLUE for my taste.
I am thinking, hmm about going Warm, very warm ICAN warm…7A-8C range.
Anyone for some choices for an emitter for this ?
Not touching the ring or driver as they work fine.

Important tip for modding the RRT-01:

When you unscrew the bezel to get to the emitter, only grip the head ABOVE the magnetic ring. NEVER grip below the ring ring unless you have already desoldered and removed the driver.

If you hold below the grip ring and unscrew the bezel, it is possible that the two sections of the head above and below the ring will unscrew instead of the bezel. If this happens while the driver is still installed the torquing action will destroy the driver wires.

Even worse, the driver itself is a 2-piece sandwich. The wires pass throw tiny holes in the top layer of the sandwich and are bonded to the inside of the bottom layer. It’s pretty much impossible to solder fresh wires on if you break the old ones since you won’t be able to get a soldering iron to the bondpads, and the wires will likely break inside the driver area. The driver is a custom magnetic ring driver… there aren’t any generic replacements available.

Basically, if you do it wrong, you pretty much destroy the entire light. Don’t ask me how I know….

2 Thanks

+1 The same happens in my Niteye Eye10 Ti, you know Niteye and Jetbeam are the same factory…

1 Thank

So let’s get back on topic here… As you can see I have removed my bezel and added a glow spacer between the emitter and reflector. I also added some sexy color to the Ti bezel. No issues or damage.

Light uses a XM-L2. Maybe I’ll stick with the xml2 and go with a t4 7a tint from leddna…again driver is not going to be swapped. I wonder if that 600lm # goes down with the warmer tinted emitter…

update to add a link to sapphire lens

I was able to purchase a new 2020 RRT-01 driver from info@jetbeamlight.com
the new driver has strobe.

But the 2020 drivers vary, some dont start at the lowest mode, although it works to dial down after a brighter start. Some 2020 drivers have visible flicker on the lowest modes. And some have high parasitic drain.

I went to a 219b 4500k 9080 sw45k and now get 400 lumens momentary maximum.

To use 219b or 519a requires a new mcpcb and either file down a 16mm noctigon to about 15mm , or source something smaller, such as this (and reflow a Nichia LED):

I also replaced the reflector and now have a much nicer, ring free spill and tighter hotspot
there are two reflector choices, thanks to research by moderator007

Reflector #1 . I like the very tight hotspot and smooth ringless spill
.
Reflector #2
(I like this one slightly better, the hotspot is a bit larger but without the “donut hole” in the middle of the hotspot)

here is a centering ring for reflector 1 or 2

try both :slight_smile:

.

IF you decide to change the Control ring grease:
I like Nyogel 767a. Do not try to open the control ring unless the mcpcb and driver are removed first.

Have to subscribe. Jon is the MAN when it comes to RRT!

A nichia at 4000K high cri looks good in it. A pebbled TIR makes it a great around the house light. They just don’t have enough run time for me to carry.

SST-20 4000K looks good too, with a pebbled TIR as well.

I bought 10mm boards and made a round copper ring to fill in the gap. Filing down 16mm ones is a pain in the butt. I quit after 10 minutes and grabbed a bag of 10mm.

I used the 12mm board, with a 219b 3000k (loving the tint), and a kaidomain reflector (love the ringless beam)… in that Eye10

credit to moderator007 for the 12mm board and kaidomain reflector links

Looks super, Jon. Also, kudos to you for putting together that Group Buy. Are they limited to just 10, or do you know what’s the entire remaining inventory from that Australian seller? I wonder how they ended up with them.

Btw, cool to hear that JetBeam is able to provide RRT-01 parts. What do they charge for the updated release driver?

Wierd thread necro… and peddling stuff to boot.

Can't find the other thread about RRT so point me if you can find it but for the time being there's some info to share with everybody who wants to pimp their original RRT's.

Niteye eye15 18650 body fits perfect with RRT01 (see comment HERE) and still can be found in one EU store.

EDIT: Gone :( (niteye 15)

First impressions of Nyogel 767a

I like that it makes the control ring more stable, so it cannot be adjusted by casual contact.

I like that it requires deliberate and intentional force to rotate the dial, and that otherwise it holds the selected position reliably.

I like how smooth it feels, and the way it eliminates the gritty feeling on an RRT-01 (from the detente ball)

The V11r has no detente ball and does not feel gritty at all.

I have done just 2 lights, each of them opened twice, because the first time I did not get enough damping rate.

Im still experimenting with where to put the grease, and how much to use… it is producing definite improvements in stability and smoothness, while retaining the ability to adjust the dial with one finger.

I like that the V11r is easier to regrease, since the electronics do not need to be removed first. otoh I find the tailswitch inconvenient and prefer to use the RRT-01.

Go with damping grease! Bit more thicker and smoother ops than Nygel.

Plus it won’t leak like Nygel when it gets warm.

On other V11R i’ve used Lithium clay grease for wheel bearings. Butter smooth operation.

thanks, feel free to share links to products you like…

fwiw, I did use damping grease for the control rings on both a V11r and an RRT-01, it does not leak out:

“NyoGel 767a Damping Grease stays where it is put, making it the preferred lubricant for sight scopes, telescopes, microscopes…”

another product Ive read good things about for control rings is
Krytox 205 which is supposed to be particularly good for Titanium. I have not tried it yet.

Another product I have heard good things about but not tried is Tef Gel, but some of my googles refer to it as antyseize and a substitute for locktite, which confused me…

I have also used darksucks munky spunk for titanium threads, but that is a different application than control rings… and I have used Nano Oil, which again is for threads, not control rings, which as you said requires thicker stuff, that is referred to as “damping grease”.

Here is a thread that helped me learn about other products as well

[QUOTE=Tekno_Cowboy;3088346]
Something to note: When using PTFE (teflon) or silicone lubes, the quality can vary greatly dependent on the quality of the thickener used, and the quality of the base oil. One can work very well, while another of the same type can perform horribly.

O-Ring Compatibility
Use caution when using petroleum products, as they can damage some types of o-rings.
Don’t use silicone lubes on silicone o-rings. The o-rings can swell and make your light almost impossible to get open.

Very Good Lubes

Nyogel: This lube is used by Surefire. This lube tends to change color slightly, but that should not affect it’s lubrication properties. 759G/760G is tuned more for threads, 779ZC is tuned more for o-rings. Nyogel 767a is a damping grease, good for control rings on RRT-01 and other magnetic rotaries.

Super-Lube: A cost-effective teflon-based lube that provides very smooth action. Both the grease and the oil perform well. It can be purchased from many hardware stores and online retailers.

NO-OX-ID: A wax-based lube with excellent anti-oxidation properties. It’s been around for about 50 years.

Krytox: One of the best lubes out there. This is a fluorinated grease that is very non-reactive and is safe for just about any application. This lube works exceptionally well on Ti lights. It is available in many different varieties, and has several re-branded names. It has been discovered that the sodium nitrate additive in the anti-oxidation varieties of Krytox can reduce the wear-resistance of Krytox on Ti and bare Al. The difference is small, but it is something to make a note of. It can be purchased from Amazon or directly from a DuPont distributor.

Krytox Variations and Re-Brands:
Finish Line Extreme Flouro
Loctite PFPE Grease
Chris Reeve Knifes Flourinated Grease
Sandwich Shoppe 50/50 mix

Nano-Oil: A highly-recommended lube by forum members. The lube uses oil as a carrier for nano-particles that are designed to act as a bearing surface. Also comes in a grease.

Good Lubes

Pure Silicone grease: This is a very common lube that can be found just about anywhere. It is generally safe for use, with the only exception being use on silicone o-rings.

Tri-Flow Clear Synthetic Grease: Similar to Super Lube. Will be moved to the Very Good section if there are more positive responses.

Deoxit ProGold: Anti-Oxidation electrical contact conditioner. While not a lube, it can be a good addition to electrical contact points on lights.

Poor Lubes

Motor Oil: It may work, but it can damage o-rings. A full synthetic like AMSOil might be safe, but why take the chance when there are better lubes out there.

Petroleum Jelly/Vaseline: Contains petroleum distillates, which can damage some types of o-rings.

Moly Grease: While very useful for other applications, Molybdenum is toxic, and should not be used for handheld applications, such as flashlights.

Lithium Grease: Contains petroleum distillates, which can damage some types of o-rings.

Bad Lubes
WD-40: It is a solvent, not a lube. It actually increases friction on the threads.

Other Lubes
Loctite ViperLube
FrogLube CLP
Militec-1
TiTi Twister[/QUOTE]

On the phone now...

Nygel and Krytox won’t leak. What i meant is: applying some heat, even body temp will cause first Nygel to loose viscosity, then Krytox.

For this pirpose i’m using aircraft grade Aeroshell 7 (no link, stole a box at work )

Damping grease can also help in reducing grittines-ss in the ring and that’s the sole purpose of it.

I’ll try to link one BG item

Found it, it’s Ali actually LOL

US $2.51 30% Off | XY-2 damping grease high viscosity damping camera lens damping grease Mechanical damping grease
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/NPBBfrcc

And if you want LVP in RRT01 then ask Jetbeam (thank you Fanny) to send Eye15 driver.

It’s identical like Eye10 and RRT01 but runs emitter a bit harder and at 3.0V you get warning, flashes.

Bellow 3.0V it will shut down.

thanks, that grease was also recommended to me by moderator007

and fwiw the Aeoroshell product is also on ebay…

lot of good choices it seems… I got the Nyogel 767a from Oveready

Thank You!

I just tested the driver for a 2019 RRT-01, that I bought from Fanny. I inserted a depleted CR123 that read 2.7v and turned on the light to maximum. It only made 8 lumens, and started flashing… when I removed the battery it was at 2.47v.

Same result with an Original Eye10 and with an Original RRT-01, they flash below 2.7v and continue to flash as the battery draws below 2.5v. When I stopped those tests the battery read 2.31v.

Curiously, the TCR-1 did NOT flash, it just kept drawing the battery down, I stopped the test when the light was at 2 lumens maximum…

conclusion, there is no LVP in Eye10 or 2019 RRT-01 drivers, nor Original RRT-01… they do flash on voltage below 3v, but do not shut off.

This Eye10 has an Original Eye10 driver, battery is below 2.5v

This RRT-01 has an Original RRT-01 Driver, battery is below 2.5v

This RRT-01 has a 2019 RRT-01 Driver, battery is below 2.5v

from this I infer that though there IS flashing below 3v the light does NOT shut off above 2.5v… so I do not consider this LVP, it is just LVW… IF the operator is asleep, the battery CAN be overdischarged.

Nygel and Krytox are lubricants and we need something thicker for this purpose.

If mod007 aproves it then it’s gotta be good.

Nyogel comes in different thicknesses, the 767a is quite thick, and it IS damping grease.

Krytox also comes in different thicknesses, the Krytox 205 is the thickest one and recommended as damping grease for Titanium rotary rings.