If you click the link there’s a full explanation how it is done: channel 2 and channel 3 both are connected to the same led, with different currents. You can also connect all 4 channels to one and the same led and make a 4-hardware-modes driver like that (with the MCU just switching channels on and off).
I’m always surprised at how few people respond to (what I think is) a nice post, but mind that there are many more readers than responders, and few responses does not mean that it is not appreciated.
Nice disassembly video! I never got the switch cover out of my Baton lights, and now I know how.
It was quite the buzz on r/flashlight but not so here, I was a little surprised.
Anyway, now everyone know how to swap an Olight S2 emitter, which is really new.
I spent some time to find the way to do it on Internet and nobody has ever showed how to do it yet.
I’ll make another better quality video when I’ll swap my clean S2, but I was too proud of myself to wait :-p
Of course, I could have kept it secret and charge anyone who wanted me to swap emitter on my bench but it’s not CPF lol
The first light with my F-8 driver for dual cell setup.
I used a Convoy M1 host and installed my F-8 with solder pads connected for 4 x AMC7135 and the FET on PB3 so I don’t have to HVSP reset the MCU prior to each flash. Once I’m happy with the firmware I’ll shift the connections on the solder pads to put the FET on PB5 and connect the currently unconnected remaining four 7135s on PB3.
In with my favorite LED, the 5000K MT-G2.
It’s a nice light, pretty bright with FET on full blast and useful lower modes using different amounts of 7135s. I haven’t fully converted my firmware to off switch only lights so all settings are currently coded, but that’s work in progress.
Well, I now have a FET driven Thorfire S70. It kind of happened by accident. I sliced the dome, but apparently my solder joints stuck out too far, contacted the reflector and fried the driver. Pulled the original driver, stripped the components to use it as a battery board. Overall I am pleased with how it turned out.
If you click on the “Here” text it has an hypertext link which brings you to the dedicated post.
You’re supposed to see a YouTube video embbeded between “This” and “Here”
Anyway click here
Today, I started a new triple : S30RII !
I plan to use 3 of the 10 219C that I ordered on RMM at $2/ea.
Well, today I only received my 3XP boards and 10507 optics from Intl Outdoor.
I had to drill in the center of the stock LED shelf :
The copper pill, made of three 3mm plates (saw, file, drill…)
The Noctigon had to be reduced to 18mm in diameter :
Dropped in :
Annnnd that’s all, the bezel and stock lens + u-ring will then be screwed to close it all.
The height is exactly the same as stock copper board + optic with a 9mm height pill.
Very nice. You sawed and filed the copper by hand? A modder after my own heart. There’s just something that feels good about shaping a piece of copper by hand, and having it fit perfectly.
Yes, I cut some 20mm square, drill a hole in the center, cut a rough circle with a saw and file it fine. Then I mounted it on my drill, and filed it again while turning
Nice combination of host and triple! About the board filing, check for a short between the metal core and the led-minus (I remember some less favorite hobby-moments)
I modded a hugsby ml-8. After wrapping the head and tube with rubber i was able to break the thread lock glue with a small pipe wrench and a vice. I took the stock pill and inserted a c8 pill in it to hold my driver (a dd 6v zener mod). On the top side I punched out a 20mm copper disc 2mm thick. polished both sides, added some therm grease, and slapped an XHP70 on top. Soldered it all together and whallaaaa. The factory OP reflector made for a nice tight beam with good unblotched center. If anyone is interested I can take pics and post em. I am making this post because when i did a search for such a couple weeks ago I found very little. So maybe it will be of interest to someone.