What did you mod today?

Also swapped my second SRmini’s emitters :
7A on the left and 4C on the right

unknown, I thought I was the only one that did stuff like that! :stuck_out_tongue:

I just ruined three brand new XP-G2 S4 2B mounted on a triple noctigon. Not going into details.

But we want details :smiley:

I put a stacked resistor on an L2 and forgot about reflector clearance when soldering the leads back in, shorted it and fried the driver. I did have Kapton tape on the base of the reflector, but it tore. I’ll be happier with the Bistro driver anyway… :wink: Still, was hoping to find out what the stock driver was capable of. :frowning:

Well I for one am extremely proud of myself. I stacked some chips!
I have never been able to stack chips. I’m a pretty good solderer, but stacking chips has always been disastrous. I have stacked one chip before, but trying to stack a second chip always turned into the ruin of me. Every once in a while I give it a go until I ruin a perfectly good Qlite, and give up.
I have a triple deep red rebel mod coming up, and need between 4A-4.5A, so I got out another driver and managed to stack four 380 7135 chips. Maybe my confidence has improved?
It’s an ugly looking mess, but everything has continuity, and nothing got bridged. It’s that little leg in the center that always gave me grief, so I just cut it off.
I haven’t tested it yet. It should be okay, but I’m afraid if it ends up not working, I’ll break into tears. Tomorrow.
This is it. Please don’t laugh.

Your ahead of me Of with the soldering. I’m sure it will all work ok.

The center leg is just a continuation of the ground tab on back, it’s not necessary to solder it.

Thanks Steve.
One chip gave me so much trouble. I couldn’t get continuity no matter how hard I tried, until I realized my DMM had timed out and turned itself off. Stupid.

That’s the problem. I never try to solder it, but it’s so close to the other two legs I always ended up bridging to it. Just cutting the darn thing off and getting it out of the way sure made it easier.

:slight_smile:
If it makes you feel better I drilled my thumb today. Lucky it was the one that has no feeling. just bleeds.
:innocent:

I modified my brand new Trustfire TR-J20. Very successful resistor mod, I turned it from a 4285 lumen beasty into a black hole battle ax.

Fried the driver. :frowning: I calculated the 2 R620 and 1 1R5 sense resistors to be ~.2625 total resistance. Jumped right on it and removed the 3 originals soldered an R025 on there. Didn’t catch on til I volcano erupted a large MOSFET on the driver that I could even hear through the thick construction. :frowning:

Yep, I have DUMBA$$ tatooed on every bone in my body.

We do it for science and the enlightenment of all mankind.

I modded a ZY-T08 to run the batteries in series running through a five amp buck driver and XPL-HI led on copper MCPCB in a new pill made to suit.

Did you design a new battery contact plate for the head, or did you use relics “solder blob” technique?

I’m not sure what relics mod was.
It has a new switch end and a new end for the power to the driver. I used single sided breadboard but it would of been a lot better and easier with double sided breadboard.
I’ll post some pictures up tomorrow if I have time.

Since I so royally screwed up the TR-J20 yesterday evening, I woke up this morning with it heavy on my mind to fix it.

Now it makes 11,040 lumens on partially depleted Basen’s. Gotta get some new XM-L2 U4 1C’s on copper and replace those old XM-L’s on aluminum. :smiley:

Edit: So if I’m running 3 26650 Basen’s in series, and pulling 18.03A, isn’t that over 200 watts? :partying_face:

Did my first mod work in a couple of months. Finally added an illuminated tailcap to my most-used light, my Thorfire TG06.

Three Yellow/Gold LEDs, 1k bleeder, 50k pot.

Very Nice !!
Love that colour :slight_smile:

Try putting a thin layer of arctic alumina epoxy on the base of the reflector. It’s much more secure than kapton tape.