What did you mod today?

This thread certainly lacks picsā€¦WE NEED PICS !

It has one of wightā€™s PZL drivers, 6 7135ā€™s for 2.2amps to a shaved 219c

Copper, whatā€™s not to love?

Those were done last week,

Yesterday was an all out blitz on the lathe to complete 7 lights with heat sinks for a friend. 7 hours on the lathe, then I came in and re-assembled the lights. Each light had cooling fins cut and some additions to aid grip on the tube. Even made my first cutting tool from an old (some 70 years) High Speed Steel planer blade. :slight_smile:

Iā€™m too old for thisā€¦ :frowning:

Add: My first triple that a carclo would not fit so had to use a ā€œclear glass lens onlyā€ No clearance using the giant CU spacer.

Shadow JM35 XHP50

I wanted to increase the current transit, but I also wanted that the change was fully reversible; so I removed the spring at the base of the tail and replaced with a spacer, realized by compressing the aluminum foil. The compactness of the spacer is such that even the front spring is compressed up to touch, between them, all the coils.
I got a good increase in current flow, I think a good 25% (When I can I will make the instrumental comparisons).

And now I can use the protected battery, both 26650 (test with protected Soshine 4200) and 18650 (test with different protected batteries).
The spacer for unprotected batteries is 10mm thick; for protected is 6mm thick.

i also have a red flashlight! and i even know why i built it! :student:
I havenā€™t used it much neither. but since the host was called torpedo, and looks like one, i thought about submarines and red light, so i put a red xp-e in itā€¦ :slight_smile:

yesterday and today i made my first triple! A red convoy s2+ with xm-l2 4c that lacked the UI of a nice BLF fet+1 driver that my A6s haveā€¦
I didnā€™t have any spacer, so i made one from cheap copper boards and copper pieces probably salvaged from somewhereā€¦ not sure if the heat transfer will be optimal, but hopefully good enough!
I used one of the blf fet+1 drivers from banggood, so i guess turbo timer is somewhere around 90 sec, probably too long for this 35 W flashlight.
The leds i used was a mix of 3x XP-L: v6 0d, v5 2a and u5 7a (at least according to fasttech)
when i compared the tint to xp-l 5A and 3D, it was less ā€œrosyā€ than 5A, and less green than 3D.
Bypassed springs, and ~11A with HE2/HG2

A Thorfire C8s with BLF A6 driver and a nice XP-L HI V2-3B on Noctigon :

And a nice 219C triple in my CNQG Brass Beauty !
I still have to swap the driver for a Qlite 3A :

Made an extension tube, pretty little thing! Danged square threads were just about the death of me!

Polished it to a mirror finish after taking that shot, man does it look sweet! :slight_smile:

And while I was at it, I scrutinized the details. The devil lurks there, donā€™t ya know! I removed the ano under the driver for better ground contact, and removed ano on the end of the battery tube as well as bottom of the head for a clean al to al contact between the battery tube and head. Paid off!

Amperage is up from 21.71 to 23.03, Lumens is up from 12,765 to 13, 524! :smiley:

Thatā€™s probably where it stops, but folks, look for the little things, enough of those addressed can make big differences! :wink:

Yes. Itā€™s the little things. Iā€™m not in a rush anymore, and like paying attention to the small details that can all add up. Good going Dale! Be a resistance miser.

Iā€™m guessing at 4-32650ā€™s 12v LEDs are next?

Thrunite T10T triple XP-G2.
Out of Nichiaā€™s & Noctigons for the moment :confused: , can swap some in later.
This was just doable taking the optic down to around 16mm.
Still has stock driver so i used an aluminium MCPCB and a couple of 1mm layers of copper soldered together for the heatsink.

Hi CRX. How did you get it disassembled? Mine seems to be glued.

Hi shrick, yes it was glued. I taped the lower part of the head to the body of the light (Gorilla tape) then wrapped the two parts in rubber and twisted the bezel off, was fairly tough. I have a very strong grip though so if you canā€™t do that you might have success by wrapping the parts well and using grips or strap wrenches or the like, maybe with some heat too. Be careful as the titanium finish would be easily damaged by tools. Hope this helps.

Today I destroyed 2 flashlights!

I did two simple emitter swaps. Both failed!

1. Manker U11:
Swapped to XPL Hi V3 3c
When I turned on again a small pure white cloud appeared over the rubber switch and the light works only in moonlight and low mode now.
Mode sequence: moon / low/low/low/low/moon/low/low/low/low/moon/lowā€¦.

2. Lumintop tool XP-G:
Swapped to nichia 219c on 10mm sinkpad.
When I turned on again NOTHING!
I found a short caused by the reflector. Sorted it and now only low is available.
Mode sequence: ā€¦/low/low/low/ā€¦

Nice work today reallyā€¦.

Donā€™t worry WolfA , these things are in schedule :wink:
Now , what driver will you try on the tool AAA ?

I donā€™t know yet!
At the moment Iā€™m looking at mtn-electronicā€™s 10mm offeringsā€¦

The bigger question is: what will I do with the U11? I didnā€™t get the pill out!!

The driver in tool is 10 or 12mm ?
At 12mm there is a replacement driver to use with 1xAAA.

You are probably right with 12mm! I was so frustrated that I just packed and stored the little thingā€¦
But I like to drive my AAA lights hot and give them 10440s wherever possible :slight_smile:

If youā€™re interested this is the driver :

http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S024821
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1124802-1-aa-aaa-1-mode-550ma-linear-booster-led

Keep us updated!

Edit : This is 1 mode only :confused:
Also , check the driver mtn has on sale now , at 12mm .