NEW: O-Light M3XS-UT-G2 Javelots; 350kcd Version!

Guys, remember that this is not a factory dedomed XP-L “green” tint light, like all of the standard M3XS-UT Javelots are. It’s got a G2 with tint that is definitely neutral white. I’ll be getting some new beamshots soon with one, so just hold tight.

As far as which emitter is better for large reflectors, that’s a tough call, because reflectors are often picky about the source shape and size. (That’s why I like lenses. :smiley: ) In either case, it mostly depends on you, really. G3 will have almost the same beam profile (almost), just a bump more lumens and a warmer tint. That will look different to each person based on what they expect from it. The M3XS-UT is one of my favorite reflector lights, because O-Light really got the reflector design done right with it, and everything about the feel and look speaks quality—to me at least. The reflector it has converts a high amount of light into the beam, especially for its size. In fact I actually prefer to carry this light with 2*18500s in it instead of 2*18650s, just because it brings so much throw to the table with very little weight when setup that way.

I don’t often get to tell people around here why I like lights that throw, or what I even use lights for besides lighting up water towers. :slight_smile: My primary use is actually boating. Secondary use is long-range rifle shooting. When I’m shooting at 500-600 yards, my light’s on a tripod, and my tripod doesn’t get tired holding my lights. For that scenario I just like battery capacity and a pencil beam. When I’m boating, I’m on a big river, one that is full of nasty surprises. I’m constantly keeping an eye on the water for logs, and at the same time I have to be shining my light up-river to navigate the buoys so I don’t travel into the outside 1/3 of the river and rip the prop off on a sand-bar. Anyways, that’s usually 1-3 hours straight of holding a light up over my shoulder once the sun goes down. I tend to find the “good” lights around me pretty quick as my arm gets tired. :weary: Many lights come onto my boat and never get a second trip back on it again, but the M3XS-UT is still taking boat rides. :wink: I’d call it a good performer, at least.

If you want more than a fishing story and my attitude to sell you on it, well, please do wait for pics. :slight_smile:

Hey Mem - can you let us know what 18500 batteries you are using? ty

Does the light come with the shorty tube to run on 2x 18500?

Yes it does, standard factory box set included.

I use EFest 18500s. But there are many others.

See drop-down lists here for other 18500 specs: Battery test-review 18650 comparator

Add dedomed XP-L V6 0D to LED options. :wink:

I like your style MEM...

It’s good to know I have one. :wink:

When reading that, I briefly heard an echo in my head of Matthew Mcconaughey’s voice from Dallas Buyers Club, saying, “I like ya style, Doc”. :smiley:

Safe to say I’ve seen that movie one too many times! Darn good one, though.

Curious to see an update on this.

Literally setting up my Nikon on the tripod in the garage right now for tint comparisons. Hold tight! :wink:

:+1: Subscribed :smiley:

See? This is why I shoot Canon… Nikon’s are so SLOOOOOWWW!

:stuck_out_tongue:

Posted the photos. :stuck_out_tongue:

HERE: Dedomed LED Tints Compared: XP-G3, XP-G2, XP-L

It’s great

I think this light would serve better having a forward clicky at the tail cap. Since you have the side switch for mode changing anyways.
I would rather have a momentary on at the tail switch.
Has anyone done this to their m3xs?

Edit: Just checked, guess you cannot mode switch with the tail unless holding the side switch. You can go momentary on with the tail, though.

Payment sent. I’ll take the xpg2 version.
Will this light benefit with an imr cell? Or can I use a protected cell and see the same performance?
Only reason I’m asking is because I think I remember reading on DBcustom review on this light and the emitter is only doin 2 amps.

Because I can get kinoko and keep power cells with 1700 mah. Vs an imr efest with only 1000 mah.

I can’t see how the XP-G3, with its current design, will EVER do any good in the throw department, not so speak about the issues related to the beam profile… we need something different, something new… or maybe just the damn ‘old’ XP-G2 S4!!

On your photo comparison, you said you are running all emitters at 4 amps, which is why the xpl and xpg3 is not performing at its full potential.

Will you be upping the amps on the m3xs if the customer decides to go xpl and xpg3 route?
Or will you ship all lights at 4 amps regardless what led we choose?

I will ship all the same—stock config w/ XP-G2 unless special arrangements. I am in the process of producing a tool, that will allow me to split the light head apart into its 2 major sections. Once the tool is finished, assuming my process works right, I will then have access to the driver. My plan at that point, will be to see what my options could be to increase power, with the side-switch possibly becoming a dummy if need-be. Don’t hold your breath, as this is not something I plan on doing right away; also not sure what my options will be for replacing the factory driver.

Curious to see what driver and mods you will come up with to boost the amps. If your successful, you may possibly get close to 375-400 kcd with the xpg3?!
I wonder what the xpl can do also?

So you measured 250kcd stock form and 350kcd with your meter?
From your pictures of the tint and beam shot, it looks to be only slightly more intense….say 50kcd?

It’s really difficult to show inverse squares of light intensity with a camera and short range shots.