Astrolux S41 - presale ended

[patmurris]

Tensai/Enercig 18350
http://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/l/enerpower-18350-imr-limn-700mah-flat-top-battery.html

[Banggood]

@tinowrx

still waiting for that happy email :cry:

ordered 16th may and still “processing”

oh you lucky few

Hi
Can u give me your order number?

[Banggood]

@Kenjii

Hi,

as you can see in this image, the screw on the right is not screwed in completly. It won´t ever, because both screws are stuck at the sides of the copper pill and the head of the right one is already messed up. These should have been placed a little bit more to the center. The MCPCB seems to have a good connection to the pill even with only one screw but i think it is much work to get this screw out. So changing the MCPCB will not be as easy as expected in this light.

I like the beam the optics produces. Pretty similar to the popular 10507 with a little bit more spill.

Regards

Kenjii

it won’t cause short out.

[Mankerlight]

@Banggood

@Kenjii

Hi, as you can see in this image, the screw on the right is not screwed in completly. It won´t ever, because both screws are stuck at the sides of the copper pill and the head of the right one is already messed up. These should have been placed a little bit more to the center. The MCPCB seems to have a good connection to the pill even with only one screw but i think it is much work to get this screw out. So changing the MCPCB will not be as easy as expected in this light. !http://www.taktsucht.de/impressum/kenjii/images/tala/tala_1198.jpg! I like the beam the optics produces. Pretty similar to the popular 10507 with a little bit more spill. Regards Kenjii

it won’t cause short out.

These two screws are isolated from circuit wire which also called MCPCB board so that should not cause a shot circuit even when the screws got contact with the body.

[raccoon]

My order shipped!

(but I didn't get an email.)

[DOCFAR]

@Mankerlight

@Banggood

@Kenjii

Hi, as you can see in this image, the screw on the right is not screwed in completly. It won´t ever, because both screws are stuck at the sides of the copper pill and the head of the right one is already messed up. These should have been placed a little bit more to the center. The MCPCB seems to have a good connection to the pill even with only one screw but i think it is much work to get this screw out. So changing the MCPCB will not be as easy as expected in this light. I like the beam the optics produces. Pretty similar to the popular 10507 with a little bit more spill. Regards Kenjii

it won’t cause short out.

These two screws are isolated from circuit wire which also called MCPCB board so that should not cause a shot circuit even when the screws got contact with the body.

Is that as safe as what you both (Banggood & Manker) delivered to us with the UNSAFE Cometa lights?
Specifically your pill design & implementation?

[saypat]

I’m not much of a solderer, but can someone comment on those + and - solder joints. On a scale from 1-10?

[Th8tredude]

I received an S41 Nichia today. Ordered shortly after the pre sale started with expedited shipping.
Man, this is one sweet bright little, and I mean little, light!
The optics are quite a bit tighter than a Carclo narrow quad with 219C.
Currently running it with an AW 800 mah 12A IMR 18350. I’ll try and get a tail clamp meter reading in the morning. Not as bright, of course, as my DBCustom modded Cu X5 with the quad 219C, with narrow Carclo, but that is max modded. This is stock! And, it is holding its own!
I just got a few of Richards newest FET + 1, Bistro drivers and the new quads with XP-G3’s, and both flavors of 219C’s, now how long until I have to try putting one of those in?
I’m curious if I will be able to use the stock optic with one of those MCPCB’s…
I think most people will be stoked to get these! I have an XP-G2 model coming as well. Had to try them both…

[Patrickbateman]

@M4D M4X

Hey guys - I´m back from the cave playing with the Astrolux S41 

( its 1:40 am - video and pix follow tomorrow)

some thoughts about my sample:

• WOW - nice and small

• good build quality, no dings and scratches

• smaller than short BLF A6

• head diameter is 22 mm

• build order: bezel - Oring - AR coated thin Lens - quad optic - Oring on the head - massive copper head 

• no extra isolation disc between screws (a bit too big imho) and the copper MCPCB

• LED wires are 22AWG

• MCPCB has a direct thermal path

• driver retaining ring was a bit loose and unscrewed with the tube (that was tight)

• driver IS the BLF A6 (with 4/7 modes + discos)

• nice tint

• better beam than my triple A6 (XP-L HI)

• much lower low than my triple A6

• switch PCB is the illuminated design, but not populated

• double springs in tailcap to reduce resistance

Powersupply was set to 4,1V (its a 30V/20A PS)

other lights to compare (my lightbox is not good)

more asap

good night my friends!

Thank you for the info !

Are those numbers for the nichia of the cree version ? ( sorry if i didn’t follow ! )

[M4D_M4X]

i got the nichias

[Flashy_Mike]

@Mankerlight

… should not cause a shot circuit even when the screws got contact with the body.

Even when? Where are they screwed in?

[RollerBoySE]

@Mankerlight

@Banggood

@Kenjii

Hi, as you can see in this image, the screw on the right is not screwed in completly. It won´t ever, because both screws are stuck at the sides of the copper pill and the head of the right one is already messed up. These should have been placed a little bit more to the center. The MCPCB seems to have a good connection to the pill even with only one screw but i think it is much work to get this screw out. So changing the MCPCB will not be as easy as expected in this light. I like the beam the optics produces. Pretty similar to the popular 10507 with a little bit more spill. Regards Kenjii

it won’t cause short out.

These two screws are isolated from circuit wire which also called MCPCB board so that should not cause a shot circuit even when the screws got contact with the body.

That’s reassuring.

Could you also, please, let us know what the difference(-s) between S41 and E14 is/are?

[patmurris]

@Mankerlight

@Banggood

…it won’t cause short out.

These two screws are isolated from circuit wire which also called MCPCB board so that should not cause a shot circuit even when the screws got contact with the body.

@Kenjii

Ok, now there just was a short on the side where the messed up screw sat…. so i know why that screw was not screwed in completely.

???

[MAD777]

My shipping notice for the Astrolux S41 Nichia version came yesterday. I’ll post my report upon receipt. I am hopeful.

[Kenjii]

@patmurris

@Mankerlight

@Banggood

…it won’t cause short out.

These two screws are isolated from circuit wire which also called MCPCB board so that should not cause a shot circuit even when the screws got contact with the body.

@Kenjii

Ok, now there just was a short on the side where the messed up screw sat…. so i know why that screw was not screwed in completely.

???

Hi,

what should i say? I can locate the short on the edge of the MCPCB where the screw sits with a DMM. It is not the body and the screw causing the short. The screw touches the positive trace of the MCPCB. It is not a big deal for me personally, because i often modify lights. I placed a piece of an insulator over the edge, that worked for me. A disc only didn´t.

And please remember, the light worked without shorting when i got it. But i think this could be improved in future designs for safety purposes.

@M4D M4X

tomorrow is family BBQ …

+2

Today with our neighbors with watching the DFB Cup final (Bavaria Munich:Dortmund) afterwards and tomorrow with some friends again. Yummy :partying_face:

Regards

Kenjii

[brted]

Sharpie, you’ve said the same thing about a million times already.

[mhanlen]

Looking forward to getting mine this monday.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

The real thing here is what happens AFTER the light is shipped. The factory expects us to use the light, when we get it it’s perfectly useable. But once it’s taken apart and inspected and put back together, well, they can’t control what happens once the light is opened and this is why we see some lights we can’t easily get into.

Yes, simply putting the LED’s on the mcpcb in reverse, with their positive side on the negative pad, then placing the wires on the opposite way, will reverse the board and cause less potential danger.

Sharpie has said it so many times to try and get their attention. It needs to be addressed before someone has a catastrophic failure. Bar-B-Que?

[Stevedog]

Hi all,
I’m a NOOB, but have been lurking around here just long enough to pre-order one of these S41’s. Being I have zero experience with flashlight modification… in order to make this light safe could I apply thermal adhesive (Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive) around the outside edge of the MPCB, thus alleviating the need for screws?

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

To make it safe, don’t open it in the first place.

Edit: I know that sounds facetious so let me explain. It’s the very act of taking it apart and putting it together that causes the unsafe potential. The masking is actually tough, the light comes in working order. Taking it apart is how the masking get’s compromised, tightening down the screws and potentially ripping the masking with a rough edge or excessive pressure.

By NOT disassembling it, it stays safe.

EditII: As for the soldering, anyone look at Vinhs soldering? He knows he’s horrible at it, it’s a running joke, but his lights work, and work well. Just don’t look at his soldering if that sort of thing bugs ya.