Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

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Docp723
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How do you get the 15% discount for this light? Is there a coupon code? Just signed up with blf, new to the flashlight world (even though i have 30 or so). My wife said i needed to lay off the knife purchases, so this is becoming a new obsession for me.

Mr.Scott
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SteveBS wrote:
Ok. So I am wondering what you plan to do with such a powerful lamp. In your city area you do not need such a lamp.

Steve,

I don’t understand your question. What does “need” have to do with anything?

DB Custom
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The relevancy was real, Mukcep posted a pic with the Thorfire S70 and L6 shining at 200M from his view on things. He claimed it to be dirty and wasn’t particularly fond of the view apparently. So I showed my country scene, where I shine my lights at coyotes and foxes and jackrabbits and cottontails and skunks and neighbors that talk too loud at 1AM. It was about perspective in use of a large powerful light. I went to that tangent in trying to understand what someone in the city would do with a 3500-4000 lumen flashlight, with all the streetlights and cars and cops and what not.

My L6 came today, beautiful light, I really like the dimensions and style, the beam is fantastic and I can’t wait for it to get dark so I can take it for a spin. Perhaps I’ll walk to the back 40 for some different shots…

Dale

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aL1 wrote:
SteveBS wrote:
Ok. So I am wondering what you plan to do with such a powerful lamp. In your city area you do not need such a lamp. I am a hunter and I have multiple scenarios where I need a good light…

I live in the city-

My EDC:

!http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/bubba9191/s-l225_zpsjc4d6shy.jpg!

please, teach us how, or me anyways.

troisanh
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Finally got my L6 this afternoon and compared to S70. The beam, as others have attested to, has no x pattern and is much tighter. Overall i like it but tailcap switch feels cheap compared to S70.

Gotta see if that can be improved on, otherwise killer deal.

HorizontalHunter
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SteveBS wrote:
Ok. So I am wondering what you plan to do with such a powerful lamp. In your city area you do not need such a lamp. I am a hunter and I have multiple scenarios where I need a good light…

I guess I “need” another good blood trailing lamp. Which emitter did you pick and why?

Bob

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264 wrote:
xed888 wrote:
edeekeos wrote:
just want to post and say my L6 arrived today in perfect condition! My 26700 Kingkong cells fit perfect! This light is a BEAST! brightest single emitter light I have ever seen! The beam is so usable, tons of spill, and a super bright spot. No donut hole either from the quad die LED. Im impressed! Thanks Simon!!!

Great news about the doughnut hole.

The S70 has it.

Hey how about the Thorfire S50. Does it have a doughnut hole?

Nope! I don’t see one on my S50.

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Don’t see it on the S50 either
But I also have a hard time seeing it on the S70 (have the first batch with white button cover)

DB Custom
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Decided to play around some with the new L6, recut the emitter shelf to accept a 31mm MaxToch copper DTP mcpcb for a new top level XHP-70 from Cutter. P2 1C binning, rated at 1830 lumens as compared to 1710? of the N4. Then I did a wee bump on the driver by stacking a R140 on top of the two R082 sense resistors (reducing resistance from .041 to .031) for an increase tail amperage reading from 4.83A to 6.33A, it’s now doing 4505 lumens out the front. Sweet! Smile The L6 is a very nice light, love the design and overall perspectives of it, Simon nailed it with the reflector, no donut hole, good hot spot area from the big 4die emitter, gotta love that, his first (I think) in this arena and very well done.

Initially I was seeing a low of 17 lumens, Turbo at 3500. I’m not at my notes at the moment but I think 2nd level was around 249 and third was 1500. Low, being only 17 lumens, really shows the lack of dark shadow in the center. Hot spot is about all you get in this mode. Wink Very cool.

Side by side with the S70, also modified with spring bypasses (Simon already did these on the stock L6) the hot spot area is a bit tighter, no donut hole in the L6 beam but my S70 shows a definite shadow in the center which is somewhat deceptive as the mind expects more intensity in the middle of the beam, not less. For all practical purposes though the donut hole is or can be difficult to see. Shining it on anything really solid, especially lighter in color, at a distance of out to 50 yds or so, moving the light around, the dark center is very obvious. Shining the S70 directly at, say, a rabbit at 30 yds, you look at the rabbit and not the light quality, so you don’t notice really as the rabbit is darker anyway. So it depends on what you’re shining it on, how you’re using it, as to whether it’s a nuisance in the S70. Also, side by side the L6 is just a visually nicer light. The matte black ano looks more high end compared to the shinier surface of the S70. Reflector surface appears similar in both lights, but the base is executed differently, with the Convoy having a slight taper down toward the emitter while the S70 base is flat. This might be what solved the donut hole issue, not sure exactly. I don’t know that the dark center is enough to truly be disappointed about in the Thorfire light, but the beam profile of the L6 is certainly pleasing and well received. Wink

At any rate, the shadowed center is not present in the L6 so even shining it on pure white fresh snow while scanning, searching, you wouldn’t see that shadow. Wink (like I know all that much about snow! Silly )

I’ll have to get another of these emitters now, as I got this one with the intention of putting it in JDub’s light. lol Sorry Jared, all in the interest of experimentation don’t ya know! Big Smile

I’m gonna be straight up with you guys, my L6, being one of the first 3 out the door, had an issue. This seemed to stem from the non DTP mcpcb that Simon used in these first 3 lights. Replacing the mcpcb/emitter made the issue go away. But it was weird as it involved the side switch not working the levels consistently, like the output would get stuck in Turbo. Removing the emitter and putting it on a SinkPad didn’t solve the issue. Replacing the emitter with a new one on a SinkPad made the light work as expected and I haven’t seen the glitch since. I don’t understand it, but it definitely seems related to that initial mcpcb/emitter combination. JDub’s own light was one of these 3, and it didn’t exhibit this problem. Kawi’s L6 was the other of these 3 and I don’t believe he had the issue either. So I’m assuming the emitter was shorting on the mcpcb on this particular sample. I tested the momentary switch and it was perfect. I tested the driver outside the light, running an MT-G2, and ran the modes by touching the two solder bumps on the driver where the switch wires go with tweezers, worked flawlessly (I, uh, might have played with it a bit long doing this, the MT-G2 started to smoke a bit, free floating and with dust on it from sitting on my workbench for a while. Oops!). All the testing I could do pointed at the emitter/mcpcb itself, and changing that pair out solved the issue.

A note on the big emitter. The XHP-70 has divided positive and negative contacts on the bottom. This is what allows it to be used in 12V configuration. I find it easier to use too much solder paste and cause a bridge under the emitter with this set-up. AND, everybody needs to be aware that in 12V configuration the negative contacts are NOT separated or isolated from the ground… they share the thermal pad to make it work and the thermal pad is grounded on the emitter shelf on any light that has ano cleared from this shelf. Something to be aware of, as a 12V set-up this way could be shorted at ground and only run in direct drive, bypassing the driver. (I say this for those that like to play with a light and do mods, this emitter requires paying a bit more attention to detail) So I highly recommend getting copper DTP mcpcb’s in the 6V format only for these, the dual format 6V/12V SinkPad’s have smaller traces, the split contacts, and are much more finicky.

Convoy L6 XHP-70, a big WIN in my book! Thumbs Up

Dale

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Might be worthy of mention, the momentary clicky on the side is one of those robust metal units with the brass button, soldered onto a small pcb that is held in place with a plastic spacer ring that surrounds the metal switch and sits level, a perfect fit to and well sealed by the rubber boot.

It has a definitive click sound to it. I was testing the tail current after bumping the output and wasn’t 100% sure what to expect, so I was ready to break contact at first sign of an issue, right? My wife was operating the side clicky to run modes so I could see the current value at each mode level. The solid click sound from this momentary made me jump and break contact, thinking it arc’ed! lol

(Now I need to open the switch end up and see what switch Simon used. lol)

Dale

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Finally ordered an N2-3A version. Cash

No more darkness in front of me Smile

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DB Custom wrote:
A note on the big emitter. The XHP-70 has divided positive and negative contacts on the bottom. This is what allows it to be used in 12V configuration. I find it easier to use too much solder paste and cause a bridge under the emitter with this set-up. AND, everybody needs to be aware that in 12V configuration the negative contacts are NOT separated or isolated from the ground… they share the thermal pad to make it work and the thermal pad is grounded on the emitter shelf on any light that has ano cleared from this shelf. Something to be aware of, as a 12V set-up this way could be shorted at ground and only run in direct drive, bypassing the driver. (I say this for those that like to play with a light and do mods, this emitter requires paying a bit more attention to detail) So I highly recommend getting copper DTP mcpcb’s in the 6V format only for these, the dual format 6V/12V SinkPad’s have smaller traces, the split contacts, and are much more finicky.

Thanks for the tip and write up
Just so I am clear. Do the 6v/12v SinkPad’s use the thermal pad as a ground? While other 12v mcpcb are not isolated as in picture.

At least that is what it looks like by inspecting the traces on the 6v/12v SinkPad. I understand how you might not want to use the 6v/12v sinkpad because of the small traces but I have some other projects planned that won’t be pushing high currents. (90 CRI XHP70 available as bare led) I want to try some of my own reflowing.
Thanks for any help.
Can someone PM me a gerber file for the solder paste stencil?
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The 6V/12V SinkPADs tie the 4 dies together by using the thermal pad between the 2 Series 2 Parallel of the 4 dies. They’re not using the pad as a ground, but rather a common between the dies. This will potentially have the effect though of grounding the star through the thermal pad and posing issues with the operation of the light.

SinkPAD also makes an MK-R star that fits the XHP-70 that is set up solely for the 6V configuration.

Charged a pair of Basen 26650’s and they do 6.36A in my L6, for 4609 lumens. This is with the R140 stacked on the pair of R082 sense resistors. Smile I thought, briefly about a second R140 but decided this is a great balance between output, heat, runtime, so I’m leaving it right here. (for now anyway. lol)

Dale

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DB Custom wrote:
…This is with the R140 stacked on the pair of R082 sense resistors. Smile

Sounds great – any chance we could get a picture of this setup? Cool
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DB Custom wrote:
This is with the R140 stacked on the pair of R082 sense resistors. Smile
So you stacked one R140 on the two R082-s or one on each R082?

No more darkness in front of me Smile

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Dale, this board?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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I stacked a single R140 on top of the pair of R082’s. Right in the middle on top of em.

Yeah Scott, that’s the 6V/12V one, when you convert to 12V by bridging the resistor pads on top or using a “0” resistor, the top left strip from the negative side of the emitter supply strip is united with the thermal pad which in turn ties in the bottom right positive pad. So then the copper material underneath is an integral part of the 4 die system. If your emitter shelf has a good ano on it, then it should still be isolated, but if it’s bare aluminum it will be grounded and short out the star.

In 6V format, you merely put a solder blob on each of the two “J” portions and leave the resistor panel on top alone.

Dale

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I mounted the head of my L6 in my lathe and recut the emitter shelf to accept the 31mm MaxToch mcpcb, so it now has the contact pads WAY out away from the reflector and has a much larger copper DTP as well, 31mm as compared to a 20mm star. (the star shape loses overall mass due to each cut-out or wire hole, this MaxToch one is a round piece, with only a couple of small holes for wires and 2 smaller holes for screws.)

Dale

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DB Custom wrote:
I stacked a single R140 on top of the pair of R082’s. Right in the middle on top of em.

Yeah Scott, that’s the 6V/12V one, when you convert to 12V by bridging the resistor pads on top or using a “0” resistor, the top left strip from the negative side of the emitter supply strip is united with the thermal pad which in turn ties in the bottom right positive pad. So then the copper material underneath is an integral part of the 4 die system. If your emitter shelf has a good ano on it, then it should still be isolated, but if it’s bare aluminum it will be grounded and short out the star.

In 6V format, you merely put a solder blob on each of the two “J” portions and leave the resistor panel on top alone.


So their relying on the thermal grease to Isolate, insulate (-) from the star???? Facepalm

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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It’s not made for flashlights.

Dale

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My internet is killin me! I just took a pic I’m dying to show and my internet is SO slow BLF doesn’t even show me the option to add a picture! Ugh!

Dale

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Should we start the DB Custom rebuild service thread. We get you a P.O. box and mail all our not quite bright enough lights to you. For a low low price you do the Doc Nuke treatment.

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An old high school friend, Charlie, used to always say at work “I’m Only One Man!” Silly

My son used to watch a cartoon movie called Penquins of Madagascar, one of the penguins, the leader I think, was military in his action and attitude, they’d play poker and he’d always win and say “Read em and weep boys! Read em and weep!” Daniel got a little toy Penguin in a happy meal from McDonald’s that repeated that over and over.

I took a pic of the inside of my L6 head with the massive 31mm Maxtoch mcpcb and was gonna say that… hahaha, but of course now the timing is ruined. Cursed DISH satellite internet!

Dale

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texas shooter wrote:
Should we start the DB Custom rebuild service thread. We get you a P.O. box and mail all our not quite bright enough lights to you. For a low low price you do the Doc Nuke treatment.

…. I’m in!

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Read em and weep boys! Read em and weep! (still in my head. Silly )

Dale

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Dale thank you for all the info and thorough investigation. I truly hope that the issue you had with the side switch was just a “beta” fluke. Mine works flawlessly. In fact tonight it had its longest run. Mars being viewable tonight without a telescope led to my son and I taking a walk after dark.

Warning: I’m going to spin off-topic a bit but it does involve the L6…

As evening rolled in the first light in the sky was Mars. How cool! It looked like a star but brighter… and orange… and visible before all the rest. As it got truly dark the full moon rose out of the tree-lined background, abnormally large and an unusual yet beautiful rosy-orange color. This unusual situation inspired my son to ask of we could go on one of the nighttime flashlight walks we sometimes take in the summer. He brought his S2+ and I brought the L6. We have a pond across the street that we like to walk around. It’s full of bullfrogs and small fish and as we found out tonight also a handful of crayfish. Smile The L6 could light up the pond enough that we saw a lot of what was going on under the water that we don’t normally see. Also well worth noting is that the L6 has a much lower low than the S2+ and was beautifully usable at all levels. In our walk I ran it for roughly 25 minutes continuously, using turbo a lot but also the lower modes. After a few minutes in turbo it had a nice warmth but not hot in the least. I must have cycled through all the modes 30 times on our walk and I still smile at how well the modes are set. Another tip-of-the-hat to Dale there. Wink I setup the initial mode spacing but ran it by him first and he tweaked my suggested mid range numbers to an even better mode spacing that we can now all benefit from. During my night walk I found that after being in turbo for a bit, dropping to low I actually wondered if the light had turned off but after a few seconds my eyes adjusted and a realized it was just that nice low. My son’s S2+ is a nice 5000K neutral and seeing them side-by-side he was saying how much he enjoyed the tint of his flashlight.

I love the variety of tints we have in flashlights now and no company I’ve seen brings as many stock tint options to the table as Convoy. It also makes me smile that my 10 year old son is talking about neutral tints as compared to cool white. Big Smile I don’t know for certain without having the DTP version of the L6 everyone else will but it’s possible the S70 might bring a few more lumens to the table. That said they’re both so crazy bright I don’t care which one wins that number game. They’re both excellent performers but I know which one I will use more. The L6 just puts a smile on my face every time I turn it on.

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FWIW, my S70 made 3636 lumens straight out of the box, as compared to the 3474 of my L6. Virtual tie. After I played with both, the S70 is making 4276 while my L6 is making 4609. No longer a tie. Beam profiles look similar, except for that vague shadow in the middle of the S70’s.

Yes, it’s great when a big honkin light has a low enough output to be that useful. Well done there for sure. With the bump mine is now doing…

0.06A for 23.5 Lumens
0.20A for 183.54
1.81A for 1649.1
6.36A for 4609.2

Useful levels, each one.

Dale

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Really looking for more beamshot comparisons to help me decide.
Mukcep’s images show the S70 to be brighter IMHO; even with the “invisible” dark spot.

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Beamshots on 1.4 meter distance (f/7.1, exposition – 1/100sec, ISO100):

S70:

L6:

I still believe that the brightness of these lights have parity, they just have different beam patterns.
And I like L6’s beam more.

I can see “petals” on S70’s shot. And i can see blurred hole (S70) on distance 0-5 meters (on shots you can not see it because exposition is too big in this case).
Both of lights are stock-versions, without upgrades and modifications.

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I took beamshots and video last night, but my internet won’t allow me to do anything with em.

Dale

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