Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

Finally got my L6 this afternoon and compared to S70. The beam, as others have attested to, has no x pattern and is much tighter. Overall i like it but tailcap switch feels cheap compared to S70.

Gotta see if that can be improved on, otherwise killer deal.

I guess I “need” another good blood trailing lamp. Which emitter did you pick and why?

Bob

Nope! I don’t see one on my S50.

Don’t see it on the S50 either
But I also have a hard time seeing it on the S70 (have the first batch with white button cover)

Decided to play around some with the new L6, recut the emitter shelf to accept a 31mm MaxToch copper DTP mcpcb for a new top level XHP-70 from Cutter. P2 1C binning, rated at 1830 lumens as compared to 1710? of the N4. Then I did a wee bump on the driver by stacking a R140 on top of the two R082 sense resistors (reducing resistance from .041 to .031) for an increase tail amperage reading from 4.83A to 6.33A, it’s now doing 4505 lumens out the front. Sweet! :slight_smile: The L6 is a very nice light, love the design and overall perspectives of it, Simon nailed it with the reflector, no donut hole, good hot spot area from the big 4die emitter, gotta love that, his first (I think) in this arena and very well done.

Initially I was seeing a low of 17 lumens, Turbo at 3500. I’m not at my notes at the moment but I think 2nd level was around 249 and third was 1500. Low, being only 17 lumens, really shows the lack of dark shadow in the center. Hot spot is about all you get in this mode. :wink: Very cool.

Side by side with the S70, also modified with spring bypasses (Simon already did these on the stock L6) the hot spot area is a bit tighter, no donut hole in the L6 beam but my S70 shows a definite shadow in the center which is somewhat deceptive as the mind expects more intensity in the middle of the beam, not less. For all practical purposes though the donut hole is or can be difficult to see. Shining it on anything really solid, especially lighter in color, at a distance of out to 50 yds or so, moving the light around, the dark center is very obvious. Shining the S70 directly at, say, a rabbit at 30 yds, you look at the rabbit and not the light quality, so you don’t notice really as the rabbit is darker anyway. So it depends on what you’re shining it on, how you’re using it, as to whether it’s a nuisance in the S70. Also, side by side the L6 is just a visually nicer light. The matte black ano looks more high end compared to the shinier surface of the S70. Reflector surface appears similar in both lights, but the base is executed differently, with the Convoy having a slight taper down toward the emitter while the S70 base is flat. This might be what solved the donut hole issue, not sure exactly. I don’t know that the dark center is enough to truly be disappointed about in the Thorfire light, but the beam profile of the L6 is certainly pleasing and well received. :wink:

At any rate, the shadowed center is not present in the L6 so even shining it on pure white fresh snow while scanning, searching, you wouldn’t see that shadow. :wink: (like I know all that much about snow! :stuck_out_tongue: )

I’ll have to get another of these emitters now, as I got this one with the intention of putting it in JDub’s light. lol Sorry Jared, all in the interest of experimentation don’t ya know! :smiley:

I’m gonna be straight up with you guys, my L6, being one of the first 3 out the door, had an issue. This seemed to stem from the non DTP mcpcb that Simon used in these first 3 lights. Replacing the mcpcb/emitter made the issue go away. But it was weird as it involved the side switch not working the levels consistently, like the output would get stuck in Turbo. Removing the emitter and putting it on a SinkPad didn’t solve the issue. Replacing the emitter with a new one on a SinkPad made the light work as expected and I haven’t seen the glitch since. I don’t understand it, but it definitely seems related to that initial mcpcb/emitter combination. JDub’s own light was one of these 3, and it didn’t exhibit this problem. Kawi’s L6 was the other of these 3 and I don’t believe he had the issue either. So I’m assuming the emitter was shorting on the mcpcb on this particular sample. I tested the momentary switch and it was perfect. I tested the driver outside the light, running an MT-G2, and ran the modes by touching the two solder bumps on the driver where the switch wires go with tweezers, worked flawlessly (I, uh, might have played with it a bit long doing this, the MT-G2 started to smoke a bit, free floating and with dust on it from sitting on my workbench for a while. Oops!). All the testing I could do pointed at the emitter/mcpcb itself, and changing that pair out solved the issue.

A note on the big emitter. The XHP-70 has divided positive and negative contacts on the bottom. This is what allows it to be used in 12V configuration. I find it easier to use too much solder paste and cause a bridge under the emitter with this set-up. AND, everybody needs to be aware that in 12V configuration the negative contacts are NOT separated or isolated from the ground… they share the thermal pad to make it work and the thermal pad is grounded on the emitter shelf on any light that has ano cleared from this shelf. Something to be aware of, as a 12V set-up this way could be shorted at ground and only run in direct drive, bypassing the driver. (I say this for those that like to play with a light and do mods, this emitter requires paying a bit more attention to detail) So I highly recommend getting copper DTP mcpcb’s in the 6V format only for these, the dual format 6V/12V SinkPad’s have smaller traces, the split contacts, and are much more finicky.

Convoy L6 XHP-70, a big WIN in my book! :+1:

Might be worthy of mention, the momentary clicky on the side is one of those robust metal units with the brass button, soldered onto a small pcb that is held in place with a plastic spacer ring that surrounds the metal switch and sits level, a perfect fit to and well sealed by the rubber boot.

It has a definitive click sound to it. I was testing the tail current after bumping the output and wasn’t 100% sure what to expect, so I was ready to break contact at first sign of an issue, right? My wife was operating the side clicky to run modes so I could see the current value at each mode level. The solid click sound from this momentary made me jump and break contact, thinking it arc’ed! lol

(Now I need to open the switch end up and see what switch Simon used. lol)

Finally ordered an N2-3A version. :money_mouth_face:

Thanks for the tip and write up
Just so I am clear. Do the 6v/12v SinkPad’s use the thermal pad as a ground? While other 12v mcpcb are not isolated as in picture.

At least that is what it looks like by inspecting the traces on the 6v/12v SinkPad. I understand how you might not want to use the 6v/12v sinkpad because of the small traces but I have some other projects planned that won’t be pushing high currents. (90 CRI XHP70 available as bare led) I want to try some of my own reflowing.
Thanks for any help.
Can someone PM me a gerber file for the solder paste stencil?

The 6V/12V SinkPADs tie the 4 dies together by using the thermal pad between the 2 Series 2 Parallel of the 4 dies. They’re not using the pad as a ground, but rather a common between the dies. This will potentially have the effect though of grounding the star through the thermal pad and posing issues with the operation of the light.

SinkPAD also makes an MK-R star that fits the XHP-70 that is set up solely for the 6V configuration.

Charged a pair of Basen 26650’s and they do 6.36A in my L6, for 4609 lumens. This is with the R140 stacked on the pair of R082 sense resistors. :slight_smile: I thought, briefly about a second R140 but decided this is a great balance between output, heat, runtime, so I’m leaving it right here. (for now anyway. lol)

Sounds great - any chance we could get a picture of this setup? :cool:

So you stacked one R140 on the two R082-s or one on each R082?

Dale, this board?

I stacked a single R140 on top of the pair of R082’s. Right in the middle on top of em.

Yeah Scott, that’s the 6V/12V one, when you convert to 12V by bridging the resistor pads on top or using a “0” resistor, the top left strip from the negative side of the emitter supply strip is united with the thermal pad which in turn ties in the bottom right positive pad. So then the copper material underneath is an integral part of the 4 die system. If your emitter shelf has a good ano on it, then it should still be isolated, but if it’s bare aluminum it will be grounded and short out the star.

In 6V format, you merely put a solder blob on each of the two “J” portions and leave the resistor panel on top alone.

I mounted the head of my L6 in my lathe and recut the emitter shelf to accept the 31mm MaxToch mcpcb, so it now has the contact pads WAY out away from the reflector and has a much larger copper DTP as well, 31mm as compared to a 20mm star. (the star shape loses overall mass due to each cut-out or wire hole, this MaxToch one is a round piece, with only a couple of small holes for wires and 2 smaller holes for screws.)

So their relying on the thermal grease to Isolate, insulate (-) from the star :person_facepalming:

It’s not made for flashlights.

My internet is killin me! I just took a pic I’m dying to show and my internet is SO slow BLF doesn’t even show me the option to add a picture! Ugh!

Should we start the DB Custom rebuild service thread. We get you a P.O. box and mail all our not quite bright enough lights to you. For a low low price you do the Doc Nuke treatment.

An old high school friend, Charlie, used to always say at work “I’m Only One Man!” :stuck_out_tongue:

My son used to watch a cartoon movie called Penquins of Madagascar, one of the penguins, the leader I think, was military in his action and attitude, they’d play poker and he’d always win and say “Read em and weep boys! Read em and weep!” Daniel got a little toy Penguin in a happy meal from McDonald’s that repeated that over and over.

I took a pic of the inside of my L6 head with the massive 31mm Maxtoch mcpcb and was gonna say that… hahaha, but of course now the timing is ruined. Cursed DISH satellite internet!

…. I’m in!