Thanks for the tip and write up
Just so I am clear. Do the 6v/12v SinkPad’s use the thermal pad as a ground? While other 12v mcpcb are not isolated as in picture.
At least that is what it looks like by inspecting the traces on the 6v/12v SinkPad. I understand how you might not want to use the 6v/12v sinkpad because of the small traces but I have some other projects planned that won’t be pushing high currents. (90 CRI XHP70 available as bare led) I want to try some of my own reflowing.
Thanks for any help.
Can someone PM me a gerber file for the solder paste stencil?
The 6V/12V SinkPADs tie the 4 dies together by using the thermal pad between the 2 Series 2 Parallel of the 4 dies. They’re not using the pad as a ground, but rather a common between the dies. This will potentially have the effect though of grounding the star through the thermal pad and posing issues with the operation of the light.
SinkPAD also makes an MK-R star that fits the XHP-70 that is set up solely for the 6V configuration.
Charged a pair of Basen 26650’s and they do 6.36A in my L6, for 4609 lumens. This is with the R140 stacked on the pair of R082 sense resistors. 
I thought, briefly about a second R140 but decided this is a great balance between output, heat, runtime, so I’m leaving it right here. (for now anyway. lol)
Sounds great - any chance we could get a picture of this setup? 
So you stacked one R140 on the two R082-s or one on each R082?
Dale, this board?
I stacked a single R140 on top of the pair of R082’s. Right in the middle on top of em.
Yeah Scott, that’s the 6V/12V one, when you convert to 12V by bridging the resistor pads on top or using a “0” resistor, the top left strip from the negative side of the emitter supply strip is united with the thermal pad which in turn ties in the bottom right positive pad. So then the copper material underneath is an integral part of the 4 die system. If your emitter shelf has a good ano on it, then it should still be isolated, but if it’s bare aluminum it will be grounded and short out the star.
In 6V format, you merely put a solder blob on each of the two “J” portions and leave the resistor panel on top alone.
I mounted the head of my L6 in my lathe and recut the emitter shelf to accept the 31mm MaxToch mcpcb, so it now has the contact pads WAY out away from the reflector and has a much larger copper DTP as well, 31mm as compared to a 20mm star. (the star shape loses overall mass due to each cut-out or wire hole, this MaxToch one is a round piece, with only a couple of small holes for wires and 2 smaller holes for screws.)
So their relying on the thermal grease to Isolate, insulate (-) from the star :person_facepalming:
It’s not made for flashlights.
My internet is killin me! I just took a pic I’m dying to show and my internet is SO slow BLF doesn’t even show me the option to add a picture! Ugh!
Should we start the DB Custom rebuild service thread. We get you a P.O. box and mail all our not quite bright enough lights to you. For a low low price you do the Doc Nuke treatment.
An old high school friend, Charlie, used to always say at work “I’m Only One Man!” 
My son used to watch a cartoon movie called Penquins of Madagascar, one of the penguins, the leader I think, was military in his action and attitude, they’d play poker and he’d always win and say “Read em and weep boys! Read em and weep!” Daniel got a little toy Penguin in a happy meal from McDonald’s that repeated that over and over.
I took a pic of the inside of my L6 head with the massive 31mm Maxtoch mcpcb and was gonna say that… hahaha, but of course now the timing is ruined. Cursed DISH satellite internet!
…. I’m in!
Read em and weep boys! Read em and weep! (still in my head. )
Dale thank you for all the info and thorough investigation. I truly hope that the issue you had with the side switch was just a “beta” fluke. Mine works flawlessly. In fact tonight it had its longest run. Mars being viewable tonight without a telescope led to my son and I taking a walk after dark.
Warning: I’m going to spin off-topic a bit but it does involve the L6…
As evening rolled in the first light in the sky was Mars. How cool! It looked like a star but brighter… and orange… and visible before all the rest. As it got truly dark the full moon rose out of the tree-lined background, abnormally large and an unusual yet beautiful rosy-orange color. This unusual situation inspired my son to ask of we could go on one of the nighttime flashlight walks we sometimes take in the summer. He brought his S2+ and I brought the L6. We have a pond across the street that we like to walk around. It’s full of bullfrogs and small fish and as we found out tonight also a handful of crayfish. The L6 could light up the pond enough that we saw a lot of what was going on under the water that we don’t normally see. Also well worth noting is that the L6 has a much lower low than the S2+ and was beautifully usable at all levels. In our walk I ran it for roughly 25 minutes continuously, using turbo a lot but also the lower modes. After a few minutes in turbo it had a nice warmth but not hot in the least. I must have cycled through all the modes 30 times on our walk and I still smile at how well the modes are set. Another tip-of-the-hat to Dale there. 
I setup the initial mode spacing but ran it by him first and he tweaked my suggested mid range numbers to an even better mode spacing that we can now all benefit from. During my night walk I found that after being in turbo for a bit, dropping to low I actually wondered if the light had turned off but after a few seconds my eyes adjusted and a realized it was just that nice low. My son’s S2+ is a nice 5000K neutral and seeing them side-by-side he was saying how much he enjoyed the tint of his flashlight.
I love the variety of tints we have in flashlights now and no company I’ve seen brings as many stock tint options to the table as Convoy. It also makes me smile that my 10 year old son is talking about neutral tints as compared to cool white. 
I don’t know for certain without having the DTP version of the L6 everyone else will but it’s possible the S70 might bring a few more lumens to the table. That said they’re both so crazy bright I don’t care which one wins that number game. They’re both excellent performers but I know which one I will use more. The L6 just puts a smile on my face every time I turn it on.
FWIW, my S70 made 3636 lumens straight out of the box, as compared to the 3474 of my L6. Virtual tie. After I played with both, the S70 is making 4276 while my L6 is making 4609. No longer a tie. Beam profiles look similar, except for that vague shadow in the middle of the S70’s.
Yes, it’s great when a big honkin light has a low enough output to be that useful. Well done there for sure. With the bump mine is now doing…
0.06A for 23.5 Lumens
0.20A for 183.54
1.81A for 1649.1
6.36A for 4609.2
Useful levels, each one.
Really looking for more beamshot comparisons to help me decide.
Mukcep’s images show the S70 to be brighter IMHO; even with the “invisible” dark spot.
Beamshots on 1.4 meter distance (f/7.1, exposition – 1/100sec, ISO100):
S70:
L6:
I still believe that the brightness of these lights have parity, they just have different beam patterns.
And I like L6’s beam more.
I can see “petals” on S70’s shot. And i can see blurred hole (S70) on distance 0-5 meters (on shots you can not see it because exposition is too big in this case).
Both of lights are stock-versions, without upgrades and modifications.
I took beamshots and video last night, but my internet won’t allow me to do anything with em.
What would happen if you just removed the resistors and bridged the connection with solder? Also, when your internet starts working right, can you post a pic of how you stacked the resistors. My light will be in today so I’m going to try the resistor mod too.