It’s not made for flashlights.
My internet is killin me! I just took a pic I’m dying to show and my internet is SO slow BLF doesn’t even show me the option to add a picture! Ugh!
Should we start the DB Custom rebuild service thread. We get you a P.O. box and mail all our not quite bright enough lights to you. For a low low price you do the Doc Nuke treatment.
An old high school friend, Charlie, used to always say at work “I’m Only One Man!” 
My son used to watch a cartoon movie called Penquins of Madagascar, one of the penguins, the leader I think, was military in his action and attitude, they’d play poker and he’d always win and say “Read em and weep boys! Read em and weep!” Daniel got a little toy Penguin in a happy meal from McDonald’s that repeated that over and over.
I took a pic of the inside of my L6 head with the massive 31mm Maxtoch mcpcb and was gonna say that… hahaha, but of course now the timing is ruined. Cursed DISH satellite internet!
…. I’m in!
Read em and weep boys! Read em and weep! (still in my head. )
Dale thank you for all the info and thorough investigation. I truly hope that the issue you had with the side switch was just a “beta” fluke. Mine works flawlessly. In fact tonight it had its longest run. Mars being viewable tonight without a telescope led to my son and I taking a walk after dark.
Warning: I’m going to spin off-topic a bit but it does involve the L6…
As evening rolled in the first light in the sky was Mars. How cool! It looked like a star but brighter… and orange… and visible before all the rest. As it got truly dark the full moon rose out of the tree-lined background, abnormally large and an unusual yet beautiful rosy-orange color. This unusual situation inspired my son to ask of we could go on one of the nighttime flashlight walks we sometimes take in the summer. He brought his S2+ and I brought the L6. We have a pond across the street that we like to walk around. It’s full of bullfrogs and small fish and as we found out tonight also a handful of crayfish. 
The L6 could light up the pond enough that we saw a lot of what was going on under the water that we don’t normally see. Also well worth noting is that the L6 has a much lower low than the S2+ and was beautifully usable at all levels. In our walk I ran it for roughly 25 minutes continuously, using turbo a lot but also the lower modes. After a few minutes in turbo it had a nice warmth but not hot in the least. I must have cycled through all the modes 30 times on our walk and I still smile at how well the modes are set. Another tip-of-the-hat to Dale there. 
I setup the initial mode spacing but ran it by him first and he tweaked my suggested mid range numbers to an even better mode spacing that we can now all benefit from. During my night walk I found that after being in turbo for a bit, dropping to low I actually wondered if the light had turned off but after a few seconds my eyes adjusted and a realized it was just that nice low. My son’s S2+ is a nice 5000K neutral and seeing them side-by-side he was saying how much he enjoyed the tint of his flashlight.
I love the variety of tints we have in flashlights now and no company I’ve seen brings as many stock tint options to the table as Convoy. It also makes me smile that my 10 year old son is talking about neutral tints as compared to cool white. 
I don’t know for certain without having the DTP version of the L6 everyone else will but it’s possible the S70 might bring a few more lumens to the table. That said they’re both so crazy bright I don’t care which one wins that number game. They’re both excellent performers but I know which one I will use more. The L6 just puts a smile on my face every time I turn it on.
FWIW, my S70 made 3636 lumens straight out of the box, as compared to the 3474 of my L6. Virtual tie. After I played with both, the S70 is making 4276 while my L6 is making 4609. No longer a tie. Beam profiles look similar, except for that vague shadow in the middle of the S70’s.
Yes, it’s great when a big honkin light has a low enough output to be that useful. Well done there for sure. With the bump mine is now doing…
0.06A for 23.5 Lumens
0.20A for 183.54
1.81A for 1649.1
6.36A for 4609.2
Useful levels, each one.
Really looking for more beamshot comparisons to help me decide.
Mukcep’s images show the S70 to be brighter IMHO; even with the “invisible” dark spot.
Beamshots on 1.4 meter distance (f/7.1, exposition – 1/100sec, ISO100):
S70:
L6:
I still believe that the brightness of these lights have parity, they just have different beam patterns.
And I like L6’s beam more.
I can see “petals” on S70’s shot. And i can see blurred hole (S70) on distance 0-5 meters (on shots you can not see it because exposition is too big in this case).
Both of lights are stock-versions, without upgrades and modifications.
I took beamshots and video last night, but my internet won’t allow me to do anything with em.
What would happen if you just removed the resistors and bridged the connection with solder? Also, when your internet starts working right, can you post a pic of how you stacked the resistors. My light will be in today so I’m going to try the resistor mod too.
I simply removed a R140 from one of the LuckySun D80 drivers and laid it on top of the 2 side by side R082 sense resistors. I was only planning on using one so I stacked it right in the middle, pyramid style. Not much to see, every kid has stacked dominoes or lego’s right?
Or like bricks in the wall :+1:
Here’s a better picture of the 6/12V XHP70 sinkpad board that shows the traces. Looking at the layout of this board, I don’t see the thermal pad being in the circuit at all… am I missing something?
Thank you for that. I’ve probably seen that before myself and probably took a macro image to get there, might have even sanded off masking to reveal it, but danged if I hadn’t completely forgotten how it worked!
I had one short on me recently and so I assumed, based on the datasheet that shows the thermal pad connecting those two dies in series, that the thermal pad on the star was also doing the same. My mistake, Sorry about that!
Kawiboy is trying to explain to me that it does indeed work, even flat down on a brass pill, and it was boggling my mind trying to figure it out based on the datasheet. Looking closer clears it right up. A maze of tiny traces. DUH!
I had the same problem when I first got to building lights. I built the driver, reflowed the LED to mcpcb, wired it all up, wouldn’t change modes?? Spent a couple HOURS messing around tore the driver out, tore it down, changed the FET, changed the MCU, tried another New Driver, same thing? Finally looked at the emitter (10X glass) sitting up a little on one end? Rang it out with my DMM, sure enough grounded to the base, F&*K!! :person_facepalming: A simple tiny microscopic sliver of solder jumped the isolation trace, from (-) LED contact to DTP pad? Reflowed , checked with a battery jump, fired up, checked it with the DMM to the mcbpcb base (no continuity) wired it up, good to go!! A year and a half later, same thing, (I forgot about it), and started the same debug process again going nuts for a couple hours, and then it dawned on me, F&*K! :person_facepalming: . :person_facepalming: , :person_facepalming: ………
If you would have stacked a R082 instead of a R140, would it have given you more output?
Well, yes of course. But I had a R140 and I didn’t have a R082….
Edit: parallel resistor calculator , open it, scroll down a bit to see a 10 resistor pad. You have to clear it each time and re-enter values for accurate results.
There are formula’s for converting that resistance value to amperage, using the cells output power and the driver efficiency with the emitter Vf and all that, but I could never in a million years remember all the variables.