Astrolux S41 - presale ended

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RollerBoySE
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ToyKeeper wrote:
If it physically fits, if you don’t mind the lower output, and if the protection doesn’t trip, protected cells are totally fine.

Thanks for the heads up!

giorgoskok
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kiriba-ru wrote:
M4X M4D measured more than 9Amp from 30Q, and I think this is target for quad xp-g2. Is there any protected cells for such current available? Don’t think so. Simple cells for low currents will degrade fast if you are going to you them in direct drive.

M4dm4x has the nichia version .
Xp-g2 should draw more amps i guess .

CRX
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The EVVA 3500 trips around 12A according to HKJ.
Or the Enerpower at 9.9 with 30Q inside.

djozz
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giorgoskok wrote:
kiriba-ru wrote:
M4X M4D measured more than 9Amp from 30Q, and I think this is target for quad xp-g2. Is there any protected cells for such current available? Don’t think so. Simple cells for low currents will degrade fast if you are going to you them in direct drive.

M4dm4x has the nichia version .
Xp-g2 should draw more amps i guess .


No, less. If the Nichia is V1, the voltage is lower than a modern XP-G2.
Flashy Mike
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kiriba-ru wrote:
M4X M4D measured more than 9Amp from 30Q, and I think this is target for quad xp-g2. Is there any protected cells for such current available? Don’t think so.

I am using Keeppower 2900 mAh protected in a XP-L HI triple S2+ without problems. Trip current is about 10 amps. This light pulls over 12 amps with LG HE4 and up to 9 amps with the Keeppower cell. Can’t use this cell in a Nichia 219C triple though, protection trips in highest mode.
There is also a Keeppower 3500 mAh with this rating, but haven’t tried it yet.
doubleone44
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Welp, just ordered a nichia one. Also included an S1 ‘cause I didn’t have one yet Big Smile

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g_sintornillos wrote:
g_sintornillos wrote:
I canceled my purchase
when I saw this photo
Sharpie wrote:
M4D M4X wrote:
quick share from phone while driving…


this did not inspire confidence, it is unsafe for me

I have in mind the “Cometa” incident

could someone please tell us who don’t know things electronic, what the issue is here? I have read about it but don’t see it. Someone said the + and – should be reversed? What is the danger here that I cannot see? Appreciate your pointing it out, thank you!

Th8tredude
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Just under that red masking is a copper trace that carries the positive to the LED. If you take it apart and put it back together, there is a chance the screw could scratch the mask down to the copper trace and short positive to the body, which is negative, thus creating a dead short to the cell. Not good…
If one was to reflow the LED backwards, and reconnect the leads feeding it also backwards, it would only bypass the driver, running direct drive from the cell. No modes, but no venting with flame either…
Understand?
Edit: If you never remove those screws and reinstall them, there is virtually no danger of it shorting.

CRX
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See the outer circle and the inner circle on the board, well basically the whole outer circle is the live and the inner one is the negative

Firelight2
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CRX wrote:
See the outer circle and the inner circle on the board, well basically the whole outer circle is the live and the inner one is the negative.

Would swapping the positive and negative on the board solve the safety issue with the screws? (reflow all LEDs and rotate them 180 degrees. Reverse the driver wires)

CRX
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Yeah like Th8tredude said.

saypat
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CRX wrote:
See the outer circle and the inner circle on the board, well basically the whole outer circle is the live and the inner one is the negative!{width:60%}http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o562/Martin_Rathmanner/IMG_20160512_...!

appreciate trying to educate me but I don’t see an outer and an inner circle? I don’t see this board as being any different than any other board I’ve seen. Dos most boards have na outer and inner circle? And are most boards opposite of this one? Some one has a keen eye (sharpie) to notice this. I believe I read in this thread that an ERROR was made on this in the planning stage. Lots of other boards have screws on them, I think my OLight M3XS-UT has them. Why use them if they have the possibility of scratching the board? Bizarro!

I should not worry myself, I’m just an end user Silly but thanks for the education.

ToyKeeper
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saypat wrote:
could someone please tell us who don’t know things electronic, what the issue is here?

Basically, the product has a copper board inside. The board is painted red and held down by screws. If the screws scratch the paint, it shorts the battery to itself, BAT+ to BAT-. So, next time you turn it on, it’ll either melt something or explode, depending on how lucky you are. Do you feel lucky?

If they reverse the polarity, scratched paint would have much smaller consequences. It would short BAT- to LED- and make the light always run on turbo instead of having other modes. Not great, but not fatal either.

Or if they had used wider keep-outs around the screws, scratched paint simply wouldn’t matter.

So, the short version is… scratched paint could make it self-destruct the same way as the Cometa did for some people.

lumiere
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ToyKeeper wrote:
saypat wrote:
could someone please tell us who don’t know things electronic, what the issue is here?

Basically, the product has a copper board inside. The board is painted red and held down by screws. If the screws scratch the paint, it shorts the battery to itself, BAT+ to BAT-. So, next time you turn it on, it’ll either melt something or explode, depending on how lucky you are. Do you feel lucky?

With a protected battery, the worst that will happen is just that the light won’t work, right? Or can something bad still happen with a protected battery?
saypat
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they can’t put a plastic washer under the screw to stop it from scratching the paint? Wider cut outs, yes!

thank you

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lumiere wrote:
With a protected battery, the worst that will happen is just that the light won’t work, right? Or can something bad still happen with a protected battery?

If your protection circuit works, it should detect overload and shut itself off before much damage happens.

If your protection circuit doesn’t work or doesn’t work correctly, bad stuff can still happen.

Have you tested the cell’s protection circuit?

(BTW, I do not recommend testing that by holding a wire on both ends of the cell with your fingers. I accidentally shorted a cell once and, in the ~0.2 seconds it took to let go, I got a second-degree burn which took a couple months to heal.)

CRX
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saypat wrote:

appreciate trying to educate me but I don’t see an outer and an inner circle? I don’t see this board as being any different than any other board I’ve seen. Dos most boards have na outer and inner circle? And are most boards opposite of this one? Some one has a keen eye (sharpie) to notice this. I believe I read in this thread that an ERROR was made on this in the planning stage. Lots of other boards have screws on them, I think my OLight M3XS-UT has them. Why use them if they have the possibility of scratching the board? Bizarro!

I should not worry myself, I’m just an end user Silly but thanks for the education.

will34
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The thing with protection circuit is that all the good 18350s comes unprotected, because they’re designed for high-drain applications such as this light. However there is nothing to worry about, if you receive a working light, chances are it will keep working. Even though the design is flawed there is nothing that could move the mcpcb or screws enough that it will short itself under normal use.

If banggood/manker wishes to fix this without changing anything in the production I suggest they use anodized black M2.5 or M3 screws… depending on the existing threading they probably don’t even need to swap the tap…

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will34 wrote:
The thing with protection circuit is that all the good 18350s comes unprotected, because they’re designed for high-drain applications such as this light. However there is nothing to worry about, if you receive a working light, chances are it will keep working. Even though the design is flawed there is nothing that could move the mcpcb or screws enough that it will short itself under normal use.

If banggood/manker wishes to fix this without changing anything in the production I suggest they use anodized black M2.5 or M3 screws… depending on the existing threading they probably don’t even need to swap the tap…

!{width:40%}http://img.alibaba.com/img/pb/970/613/561/561613970_725.jpg!

If the product is like what Kenjii’s received, I think still prone if get bumped (in case optic is not fit enough to hold the mcpcb).
Another option may be they can use plastic screw

Edit.. oops Sharpie already mentioned this. Blushing

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Think I might do the following on mine:

1. Reflow and rewire all LEDs backwards. That way, the light won’t blow up if there’s a short.
2. Use a dremel, drill or file… scrape the mask and conductive layer from around the screw. Moving the conductive layer back from the holes should eliminate any risk the screw threads will cause a short.
3. Put a layer of arctic alumina epoxy around the holes to cover the newly cleared area.

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There are a lot of ideas here…but can you give one, most simple and pretty reliable solution for this problem that anyone could apply at home? I mean:

  • Simple enough to be applied by a total noob (so no reflowing, soldering, etc).
  • Not need to be “elegant” or bombproof – just safe enough.
  • No special screws needed or any other equipment like dremel.

ToyKeeper
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Woytas wrote:
There are a lot of ideas here…but can you give one, most simple and pretty reliable solution for this problem that anyone could apply at home? I mean:
  • Simple enough to be applied by a total noob (so no reflowing, soldering, etc).
  • Not need to be “elegant” or bombproof – just safe enough.
  • No special screws needed or any other equipment like dremel.

Step 1: Try the light with a protected cell.
Step 2: If step 1 worked, don’t open the light except to change the battery.

That’s all. If it’s not broken, don’t fix it.

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Thank you very much for quick answers!

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Manker will add insulating discs from now on

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

RollerBoySE
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M4D M4X wrote:
Manker will add insulating discs from now on

Good!

But how will they handle us who have already bought it?

jmpaul320
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I am glad I waited to buy mine.

Would you mind keeping the wrong flashlight?
Best wish, May
Tmart service team

 

Soumil wrote:

PLEASE HELP ME GEARBEsT! IM LITERALLY CRYING!

 

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jmpaul320 wrote:
I am glad I waited to buy mine.

Me too, more unsafe Manker rubbish

Ouchyfoot
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Woytas wrote:
There are a lot of ideas here…but can you give one, most simple and pretty reliable solution for this problem that anyone could apply at home? I mean:
  • Simple enough to be applied by a total noob (so no reflowing, soldering, etc).
  • Not need to be “elegant” or bombproof – just safe enough.
  • No special screws needed or any other equipment like dremel.

Step 1: Try the light with a protected cell.
Step 2: If step 1 worked, don’t open the light except to change the battery.

That’s all. If it’s not broken, don’t fix it.


Exactly.
If you are not a modder and prone to fiddling around with the innards of things, and just want a flashlight for illumination, don’t do anything. You’ll be just fine.
ReManG
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Woytas wrote:
There are a lot of ideas here…but can you give one, most simple and pretty reliable solution for this problem that anyone could apply at home? I mean:
  • Simple enough to be applied by a total noob (so no reflowing, soldering, etc).
  • Not need to be “elegant” or bombproof – just safe enough.
  • No special screws needed or any other equipment like dremel.

Step 1: Try the light with a protected cell.
Step 2: If step 1 worked, don’t open the light except to change the battery.

That’s all. If it’s not broken, don’t fix it.


Exactly.
If you are not a modder and prone to fiddling around with the innards of things, and just want a flashlight for illumination, don’t do anything. You’ll be just fine.

+1

Sharpie is mainly pointing out the potential issues that may occur. If the light works the first time, no issues. I expect most will work (99% or better). As I said, IF I mod this light, I will reverse the LED polarity to provide more potential safety.

The problem with potential is the perception of it.

If you would sleep with a total stranger for a million dollars, does that make you a millionaire or a prostitute? Neither actually, just talking about potential to do something if something else happens…

ALL of my links are non-affiliated for your pleasure...

My Reviews

Lithium Ion Battery Safety 101

 

Ouchyfoot
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Modders tend to spend as much time breaking perfectly good lights as we do modding them.
The thing is, we don’t really care because it gives us an excuse to rebuild them in our own image.

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