Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

If you would have stacked a R082 instead of a R140, would it have given you more output?

Well, yes of course. But I had a R140 and I didn’t have a R082….

Edit: parallel resistor calculator , open it, scroll down a bit to see a 10 resistor pad. You have to clear it each time and re-enter values for accurate results.

There are formula’s for converting that resistance value to amperage, using the cells output power and the driver efficiency with the emitter Vf and all that, but I could never in a million years remember all the variables.

Thanks a lot, can’t wait to get home and play now!!

I’ll say this, reason needs be applied.
If you remove the sense resistors and bridge the pads, sure, it’ll make bonkers light output, like nearly 6000 lumens. BUT, it’ll fall super fast, like to the tune of 400-500 lumens the first 30 seconds. So the gains are fleeting, lost to heat and in the long run there will be damage done shortening the life of the emitter and at a very minimum yielding very short run times from your devoutly sought after cells.
Some compromise will bring a balance that can be lived with. The stock resistance is .041. I chose .031 and the resulting 6.36A from Basen cells works for me, as does the 4609 lumens. It doesn’t get burning hot super fast, the cells are still, kinda, in their range, and all is well. You could probably go to .025 and get over 7A and it wouldn’t be so horrible, but 9A or more is really not the best yield here, which is of course completely up to you.

I don’t really understand all the resistor stuff but making a few changes there seems like the key. The driver originally had a R100 and a R082. After I talked over with KawiBoy he suggested going to either two R050 or for a little tamer version two R082 resistors. Simons driver guys are still being a little cautious but steadily improving. I can tell you for certain that this driver would have been putting out significantly less without his input. Thanks to Dale and KawiBoy1428 assisting me in the technical side of my advisory role, the L6 is better than it would have been and came out sooner that it would have. Cheers boys! :beer:

maybe DB custom can make us a video walk through just in case some feel comfortable doing what he did to up the lumens a bit? what do you think DB?

I think you guys have done a marvelous job of optimizing:

  • output
  • run times
  • heat build-up
  • form factor (size, battery configuration)
  • style
  • UI (switches and modes)
  • beam (profile and tint)
  • quality construction
  • practicality (all of the above relative to cost)

Kudos to all! :beer: :beer: :beer:

I went home during lunch and swapped the emitter to a P2 1C and stacked a R050 resistor on top of the R082s. It seemed to be a bit brighter afterwards. I have a crappy meter so current measurements won’t do me any good.

dj, is that a big drop of solder paste on leg 2 of the 8 leg component directly above the sense resistors? Need to clear that out.

If you changed to a 2 bin higher emitter AND increased the output that significantly, it should be very noticeably brighter, wide margin!

As in, just how low are your cells?

From .041 ohms resistance to 0.022527, almost half, it should be up over 7A instead of 4.8, marked increase.

I just noticed that myself, I didn’t use solder paste…it looks like the thermal paste that was under the stock mcpcb. I’ll have to take her back apart and clean it.

I definitely notice the increase in output…eventually there’ll have to be a fet+1 installed.

Still waiting for my L6 here in Germany….

MIne shipped on the 19th. The tracking number still doesn’t work.

I dithered on the N2 5A (4000k) and now it’s out of stock and I feel sad.

I still haven’t decided if I will buy this one. I really want it but I also have the S70… And I don’t really have a use for it so it’s purely for collection.

Maybe I will sell the S70 to make room for the L6 :smiley:

Me too. Very nicely done.

Bob

I’ve been ready to put an order in for the L6 for a while, and I’ve been keeping up with this thread as much as possible. But I have a few questions that I haven’t found answers to yet.

Questions for you guys:

  1. Has anyone received a NW L6 and verified that a direct thermal path MCPCB comes stock?
  2. If I wanted to throw in a new driver (like a FET), what do you guys recommend that will still work with the side switch.
  3. Any word from Simon on a host yet?

Thanks guys

It’s a 30mm driver in the L6 so you have to make an adapter if you want to run one of RMM’s 26-20-17mm FETDD drivers. Any ways go to link and start at the Top drop down. :+1: Pick Turbo Timer (drop down) Unless your going with moppdrv? Firmware (drop down) Standard E-switch or Custom E-switch, or moppydrv. (I go Custom on Big Lights usually 4 Levels the standard I believe is 6 evenly spaced.) Then 2 cell+ (drop down) LDO w/o or with 6v LVP FET Driver - 22mm Adapter for 30mm to 26mm FETDD driver. 30x26x1mm copper sealing rings (hydraulic seals) Easy enough to do! http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?\_odkw=metric+copper+washers+sealing&\_osacat=0&\_from=R40&\_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmetric+copper+hydraulic+sealing+rings.TRS0&\_nkw=metric+copper+hydraulic+sealing+rings&\_sacat=0 Shop by Category | eBay Some assembly and fitting required :smiley:

Thanks for the tips!!