If you want long runtimes at max power, how about the Zebralight SC600w III HI
Build quality is superb both inside and out.
The light has no timed turbo stepdown.
Thermal stepdown is unnoticeable. The light will maintain near max brightness for the life of the battery.
Excellent output: over 1100 lumens
Wide flood, with excellent throw (19,000 lux)
Shorter than most other 1x18650 lights, which is important for pocket-carry. Still considerably larger than the DQG though.
Flawless build quality
Perfect tint
Great UI
In my opinion, the SC600w III HI is probably the best stock light I’ve ever owned. It’s so good that Vinh gave up on modifying one because none of his modifications made a significant difference on performance. About the only bad thing about Zebralights is they can’t be modded by most amateur modders.
Not sure exactly what size driver will fit in. It’s larger than 17mm. I think maybe 20mm.
HOWEVER… the biggest problems is that the original driver includes both the driver and emitter on the same board. This allows for the most compact light possible, but unfortunately doesn’t allow you to simply swap in a new driver. Any new driver you could buy won’t have the emitter on it, and there isn’t room to install a single-emitter star, the optic and a new separate driver board.
Essentially, if you want more power, the only option is to convert this light to a triple. The Carclo triple TIR optic is 7mm shallower than the stock TIR. This frees up enough space to mount a star in front of the driver.
I think your heatsink (is it thermal glue?) is a bit too thick. The top of your carclo sit’s a bit too high for the gap to close on the bezel. Does the carclo slide all the way down? I had to sand off the edges a bit.
Or maybe you can sand down the heatsink. Or the noctigon board a bit, but that is not really nice for the already limited heatsinking maybe.
Or place an (O-)ring to fill the gap.
I don’t know these nichia’s you used. Tint looks nice. Is it bright?
I’m looking to mod a second one with the new noctigon board with the small added pad for a locator led and high cri nichia’s. Someday :person_facepalming:
Worked out nice for you! It’s really my favourite small powerhouse.
Really nice job.
>I don’t know these nichia’s you used. Tint looks nice. Is it bright?
Not bright. I’m like it
It’s warm white led (2500-2700K)
0,01А-0,25А-1,05А - after change SMD resistor R35 for R50
Turbo 2,25А http://forum.fonarevka.ru/album.php?albumid=1062&pictureid=15254
i have had one for about 9 months
used normally
last week the switch broke off the circuit board
kind of a bad design
pushing the button strains the 4 solder joints every time you press
be prepared for it to not last forever
i emailed david, the creator, he seems sympathetic but does not offer help
so far
i used to be a fan of this light
but i have had one for about 9 months, normal use, and the switch just broke off the circuit board
this is a weak design
every time you press the button, it stresses 4 tiny solder joints holding the switch on the board
sooner or later it will fatigue and fall off
Wle, that is good to know, on the III version, the switch is body mounted, and mine is still going strong. I use the IV version as a back up anyway.Thanks for the update!
