wow that looks like a good deal, even with the current ~$10 I see, pretty complete set.
EDIT nice tint as well!
How does it charge?
Interesting. It looks like a knock off of the Nitecore HC50 with the added feature of being rechargeable like the Nitecore HC90.
I have the Nitecore HC90 and it is a terrific headlamp for the outdoorsman, or woman. :+1:
It charges through a micro USB port just like my Nitecore HC90.
Bob
i like mine as well. changed the optics into something floodier also.
Wow nice features for a $10 light. Too bad it’s only one mode.
Its a dimmer flashlight, has an adjustable mode if you press and hold down the button.
A cousin of mine has this headlamp and he cannot adjust the brightness (mode). Just read this post and told him about “press and hold down the button” and his unit goes into ‘infra red’, meaning it turns off or on and with a wave of your hand across the light, but no change in brightness.
How is the brightness changed?
Press in until it clicks once and hold (don’t release) from off or on will ramp the brightness. Release the button when at the desired brightness (a click will be heard).
Double click will enable the motion on/off. Single click while in this mode will turn it off. The ‘motion on/off mode’ only has 1 brightness level and to my knowledge cannot be changed.
And single click from off will turn on in the last set ramping brightness.
Just copy/pasted your post to his email… he’s now trying it out.
Thanks a lot!
that is good news if it can really change brightness. so the highest mode is 300 lumens? or is that chinese lumens, and in actual only 100 lumens?
The IR motion sensor on/off via pretty slick. I haven’t seen that before. I have the USB charging on my Nitecore HC90. I like having the option as I have a USB jack in my truck and it would be a convient way to top it off.
It looks like a Nitecore HC30 case but the internals are clearly different.
Bob
Single click turns it on. When on, click and hold for ramping. Release button when the brightness you want is reached. When ramping, the light will go from low to high then from high to low and so on.
One click will turn it off when on. It has memory (as long as you don´t remove the battery cap) and the next single click will turn it on into the brightness level it was turned off.
Double click from off brings it into motion sensor mode (the red light in the switch cap will turn on). Now you can turn on and off the light by moving your hand in front of the lamp (highest level only).
From here a single click will turn off the light and sensor mode (red light in switch cap will turn off).
I have this light for a couple of weeks now and I would say that it is really doing well for the price. It is a little tricky to ramp to the lowest possible level, but with a little training it will be fine.
My kids took it with them to a scout camp and were really happy with it. Got order to get another one. 
Works fine with samsung 30q (unprotected) and the very long 18650b (protected).
I recommend to use protected batteries whenever people who are not aware of li-ion risks are using it !
Yes I compare with other flashlight Skilhunt H02 New (mode 300 lumens) and the 300 lumens are real!!
I would say ~250 based on it measuring 40% of my HC50’s brightness.
Low voltage warning or cut-off?
The IR is quite neat and something I haven’t encountered before either. In use it works alright. I found it accidentally turning off a few times in a few hours when I was working up close, but not too bad. I wish that the motion mode brightness level could be changed as well. It would be much more versatile that way.
The charging option… I just don’t trust cheap lights to have proper charging circuitry and quality control even in a single cell configuration.
Unfortunately not. 
This headlamp appears to have one of those generic mystery 3535 LED's that djozz tested (link to source of below pic and his test report is in the pic).
The good news is that it's pretty easy to swap to a XP type emitter if you have a hot air station with a small nozzle attachment. Here is the procedure:
- Unscrew the bezel and remove it and the optic.
- Slide out the plastic battery tube insert that is behind the emitter.
- See more detail 2 posts down.
- Push the MCPCB back a tad so that it's not touching the headlamp body.
- Use a hot air gun with the smallest nozzle to remove and reflow in a new emitter.
- Let the light cool back down and reassemble.
I tried a Nichia 219C 5K 83CRI emitter last night. Made the beam more throwy and less yellow. I would like to keep the low Vf and decent CRI, but prefer the stock floodier beam pattern better. So maybe tonight I will swap in an XPL. I'll take some pics this time.
EDIT: The light appears to have a proper charging algorithm and cuts off at 4.2volts. I'd like to tear down the light more to see what type of chip it has, but disassembly looks tricky.
EDIT2: Something to watch out for. The MCPCB is a long aluminium strip that goes along the frount side of the battery tube. The strip is held in place by plactic insert. The optic pushes back on the MCPCB and could potentially push the MCPCB back reducing contact with the host. With the emitter only drawing about 1 amp (guess based on output), that probably isn't an issue. Just something to be aware of depending on what type of mods you make to this light.
How did you pull the plastic sleeve out of battery compartment? Mine is stuck in there really hard.
^
Mine was too. It took me a good number of attempts to get it to slide a little. Once it move a little, I could see there was a notch to pry it out it by. I used a light clip that would likely bend before I broke the plastic, but it ended up moving very easy when pried. You may be able to pry it from the start, but be careful not to break the plastic. The notch faces the front of the light and is not visible when the plastic piece is all the way down.
Hope that helps.
I saw that notch. Thank you!