Just copy/pasted your post to his email… he’s now trying it out.
Thanks a lot!
that is good news if it can really change brightness. so the highest mode is 300 lumens? or is that chinese lumens, and in actual only 100 lumens?
The IR motion sensor on/off via pretty slick. I haven’t seen that before. I have the USB charging on my Nitecore HC90. I like having the option as I have a USB jack in my truck and it would be a convient way to top it off.
It looks like a Nitecore HC30 case but the internals are clearly different.
Bob
Single click turns it on. When on, click and hold for ramping. Release button when the brightness you want is reached. When ramping, the light will go from low to high then from high to low and so on.
One click will turn it off when on. It has memory (as long as you don´t remove the battery cap) and the next single click will turn it on into the brightness level it was turned off.
Double click from off brings it into motion sensor mode (the red light in the switch cap will turn on). Now you can turn on and off the light by moving your hand in front of the lamp (highest level only).
From here a single click will turn off the light and sensor mode (red light in switch cap will turn off).
I have this light for a couple of weeks now and I would say that it is really doing well for the price. It is a little tricky to ramp to the lowest possible level, but with a little training it will be fine.
My kids took it with them to a scout camp and were really happy with it. Got order to get another one. 
Works fine with samsung 30q (unprotected) and the very long 18650b (protected).
I recommend to use protected batteries whenever people who are not aware of li-ion risks are using it !
Yes I compare with other flashlight Skilhunt H02 New (mode 300 lumens) and the 300 lumens are real!!
I would say ~250 based on it measuring 40% of my HC50’s brightness.
Low voltage warning or cut-off?
The IR is quite neat and something I haven’t encountered before either. In use it works alright. I found it accidentally turning off a few times in a few hours when I was working up close, but not too bad. I wish that the motion mode brightness level could be changed as well. It would be much more versatile that way.
The charging option… I just don’t trust cheap lights to have proper charging circuitry and quality control even in a single cell configuration.
Unfortunately not. 
This headlamp appears to have one of those generic mystery 3535 LED's that djozz tested (link to source of below pic and his test report is in the pic).
The good news is that it's pretty easy to swap to a XP type emitter if you have a hot air station with a small nozzle attachment. Here is the procedure:
- Unscrew the bezel and remove it and the optic.
- Slide out the plastic battery tube insert that is behind the emitter.
- See more detail 2 posts down.
- Push the MCPCB back a tad so that it's not touching the headlamp body.
- Use a hot air gun with the smallest nozzle to remove and reflow in a new emitter.
- Let the light cool back down and reassemble.
I tried a Nichia 219C 5K 83CRI emitter last night. Made the beam more throwy and less yellow. I would like to keep the low Vf and decent CRI, but prefer the stock floodier beam pattern better. So maybe tonight I will swap in an XPL. I'll take some pics this time.
EDIT: The light appears to have a proper charging algorithm and cuts off at 4.2volts. I'd like to tear down the light more to see what type of chip it has, but disassembly looks tricky.
EDIT2: Something to watch out for. The MCPCB is a long aluminium strip that goes along the frount side of the battery tube. The strip is held in place by plactic insert. The optic pushes back on the MCPCB and could potentially push the MCPCB back reducing contact with the host. With the emitter only drawing about 1 amp (guess based on output), that probably isn't an issue. Just something to be aware of depending on what type of mods you make to this light.
How did you pull the plastic sleeve out of battery compartment? Mine is stuck in there really hard.
^
Mine was too. It took me a good number of attempts to get it to slide a little. Once it move a little, I could see there was a notch to pry it out it by. I used a light clip that would likely bend before I broke the plastic, but it ended up moving very easy when pried. You may be able to pry it from the start, but be careful not to break the plastic. The notch faces the front of the light and is not visible when the plastic piece is all the way down.
Hope that helps.
I saw that notch. Thank you!
You’re welcome.
I see GB has them for $9.76 in their Summer Clearance sale. Seems these would be good for hiking with the nice beam pattern. Hang in the tent and just wave to turn on and off. I have too many headlamps. Must resist.
I share my current measurements about this headlight:
From low to high ramping: 50mA-1500mA
In motion sensor mode :
-When on: 1500mA
-When off (standby): <10mA
^
Oh, good stuff. Thank you ZozzV6! That is higher output than I expected. I’d like to mod it up to 2 amps.
I take it draw in IR Sensor Mode (when on) would depend on what level was set by the user. When I use IR Sensor Mode, it goes to the level I had memorized. Any thoughts on that?
By the way, I really like this light when I’m working with gloves or on dirty stuff. I can turn the light on and off without physically touching it.
In IR sensor mode mine always in the highest mode.
^
That’s a drag. If I get my light torn down, I’ll take good pics of the driver and both sides of the MCPCB. Maybe there is a way to change the configuration for that.
Boy, 1.5 amps. With a nice XPL, the light would be putting out about 700lm and run cooler than with the stock emitter. 
^
Yeah. Mine is 47°C after 5 minutes in highest.
Swapped in a XP-L V5 1D (A or D). Very happy with it. Would prefer an XM-L2 for more even and wider beam, but that would take a whole lotta modding. Output is at least double. Measured current on High and also got 1.5 amps. I don't know if something changed or I was on some good drugs or something, but I only get High mode when using the IR Switch Mode. Pretty bummed about that. Not sure how to open this light up. I imagine the tail cap can be unscrewed, but I'm a bit worried the offset switch could be damaged in the process. I did try to loosen the cap, but it must have some pretty high temp thread lock. Couldn't get it to budge. I even melted my rubber strap wrench straps tried to unscrew the cap.
I must have had something on my phone camera distance sensor or something. All my pics look awful. Here are a few of the best (least bad) pics.
- MCPCB pushed away from the battery tube to reflow emitter.
- XPL emitter after reflow. I had to force it to set of to one corner because the the MCPCB pads are not centered.
- Reassembled with XPL in place. Need to clean the optic. Not sure how to do that without scratching it.
