Boruit RJ-02 headlight... 2 thumbs up...

How did you pull the plastic sleeve out of battery compartment? Mine is stuck in there really hard.

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Mine was too. It took me a good number of attempts to get it to slide a little. Once it move a little, I could see there was a notch to pry it out it by. I used a light clip that would likely bend before I broke the plastic, but it ended up moving very easy when pried. You may be able to pry it from the start, but be careful not to break the plastic. The notch faces the front of the light and is not visible when the plastic piece is all the way down.

Hope that helps.

I saw that notch. Thank you!

You’re welcome.

I see GB has them for $9.76 in their Summer Clearance sale. Seems these would be good for hiking with the nice beam pattern. Hang in the tent and just wave to turn on and off. I have too many headlamps. Must resist.

I share my current measurements about this headlight:
From low to high ramping: 50mA-1500mA
In motion sensor mode :
-When on: 1500mA
-When off (standby): <10mA

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Oh, good stuff. Thank you ZozzV6! That is higher output than I expected. I’d like to mod it up to 2 amps.

I take it draw in IR Sensor Mode (when on) would depend on what level was set by the user. When I use IR Sensor Mode, it goes to the level I had memorized. Any thoughts on that?

By the way, I really like this light when I’m working with gloves or on dirty stuff. I can turn the light on and off without physically touching it.

In IR sensor mode mine always in the highest mode.

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That’s a drag. If I get my light torn down, I’ll take good pics of the driver and both sides of the MCPCB. Maybe there is a way to change the configuration for that.

Boy, 1.5 amps. With a nice XPL, the light would be putting out about 700lm and run cooler than with the stock emitter. :slight_smile:

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Yeah. Mine is 47°C after 5 minutes in highest.

Swapped in a XP-L V5 1D (A or D). Very happy with it. Would prefer an XM-L2 for more even and wider beam, but that would take a whole lotta modding. Output is at least double. Measured current on High and also got 1.5 amps. I don't know if something changed or I was on some good drugs or something, but I only get High mode when using the IR Switch Mode. Pretty bummed about that. Not sure how to open this light up. I imagine the tail cap can be unscrewed, but I'm a bit worried the offset switch could be damaged in the process. I did try to loosen the cap, but it must have some pretty high temp thread lock. Couldn't get it to budge. I even melted my rubber strap wrench straps tried to unscrew the cap.

I must have had something on my phone camera distance sensor or something. All my pics look awful. Here are a few of the best (least bad) pics.

  1. MCPCB pushed away from the battery tube to reflow emitter.
  2. XPL emitter after reflow. I had to force it to set of to one corner because the the MCPCB pads are not centered.
  3. Reassembled with XPL in place. Need to clean the optic. Not sure how to do that without scratching it.

i have used mine for a WHILE now. I have worked several nights on the house ob all night instead of all day? this head light on LO ramp setting, lasts ALL night no problem, fine amount of light for what i’m doing with my hands.

when i go to sleep on the cot at the site? i plug it in like a cell phone to recharge over night…. no complaints.

i aint modding something that works this perfect i used everyday at work.

how many lumens… tint… flood/spot optics…. shrugs all secondary considerations to me.

on LO or “just above lowest”? i can SEE everything my hands are doing perfectly, all i need. Long runtimes on low modes…. and when on HIghest setting? i can see across a BIG yard pretty well, which is all in all, about ALL i can ASK from a cheap work headlight.

this thing has been dropped, kicked down steps, and skkidded across the floor like a hockey puck, worked fine. i am tickled pink with this thing…

i even find myself grabbing for it as a night light to have a smoke in the middle of the night. One sad day when the strap breaks? it will stay with me as a “throw in pocket, handy light” because of the long run times and easy charging on USB…

I even use it to ride my buddy’s kid’s little DIRT BIKE in the middle of the night… its a great little cheap light.

I even used it all WEEK as a “18650 battery charger” during the day when i dont need it much, when i forgot my dual bay recharger at HOME for the work week.

I threw some DC fix on the TIR and have to agree, for $10 this is a budget winner of a light…

+1

i would like a group buy with

cree led
some termal paste or glue between led mcpcb & headlamp body
a little more current to the led and lower minimum current

I received the RJ-02 yesterday and it worked fine except the ir sensor on/off function. When I double clicked the switch it lit up red as it is supposed to, but waving in front of the sensor regardless of how much or how far away will not turn on the light. Am I missing something here? Or do I have a faulty light. It’s a bummer because I chose it over others for this feature. This would be my 1st go around with GB CS if I have to do it. Not looking forward to it. Thoughts/opinions anyone?

I had the same Problem. Thought the light was faulty, but after removing the battery and putting it back in, the sensor worked as it should.

Fantastic!

JPLight you fixed my light. :+1: Thank you. :beer: :beer:

I reinstalled the battery and it worked…….once then it went back to no worky again. Reinstalled battery again and it’s been working ever since. Have to see how long it lasts but for now it’s a functioning unit. Thanks again for the info.

Interesting. Wonder if it’s a glitch in the FW. Maybe it has more than one mode of operation and cutting power quickly (while trying to get the cap screwed back on) changes the mode.

> 1.5 amps. With a nice XPL

Hmmmmm … would an XP-E2 fit that board? mtnelectronics says:

Or is that plastic insert chunky enough that it could be drilled out and wired to hold a normal emitter and Noctigon board with some heatsink value?
I realize the heat path would have to be from the front side toward the metal around the lens, not back through the plastic insert.

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I would think any emitter with an XP footprint could be reflowed to the stock board. I haven’t got the stock board out yet, but it doesn’t look like you could drill into it. It has traces and components on both the front and back.

I tried to replicate the glitch reported above by repeatedly changing a cell, but could not get it to happen.