Boruit RJ-02 headlight... 2 thumbs up...

In IR sensor mode mine always in the highest mode.

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That’s a drag. If I get my light torn down, I’ll take good pics of the driver and both sides of the MCPCB. Maybe there is a way to change the configuration for that.

Boy, 1.5 amps. With a nice XPL, the light would be putting out about 700lm and run cooler than with the stock emitter. :slight_smile:

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Yeah. Mine is 47°C after 5 minutes in highest.

Swapped in a XP-L V5 1D (A or D). Very happy with it. Would prefer an XM-L2 for more even and wider beam, but that would take a whole lotta modding. Output is at least double. Measured current on High and also got 1.5 amps. I don't know if something changed or I was on some good drugs or something, but I only get High mode when using the IR Switch Mode. Pretty bummed about that. Not sure how to open this light up. I imagine the tail cap can be unscrewed, but I'm a bit worried the offset switch could be damaged in the process. I did try to loosen the cap, but it must have some pretty high temp thread lock. Couldn't get it to budge. I even melted my rubber strap wrench straps tried to unscrew the cap.

I must have had something on my phone camera distance sensor or something. All my pics look awful. Here are a few of the best (least bad) pics.

  1. MCPCB pushed away from the battery tube to reflow emitter.
  2. XPL emitter after reflow. I had to force it to set of to one corner because the the MCPCB pads are not centered.
  3. Reassembled with XPL in place. Need to clean the optic. Not sure how to do that without scratching it.

i have used mine for a WHILE now. I have worked several nights on the house ob all night instead of all day? this head light on LO ramp setting, lasts ALL night no problem, fine amount of light for what i’m doing with my hands.

when i go to sleep on the cot at the site? i plug it in like a cell phone to recharge over night…. no complaints.

i aint modding something that works this perfect i used everyday at work.

how many lumens… tint… flood/spot optics…. shrugs all secondary considerations to me.

on LO or “just above lowest”? i can SEE everything my hands are doing perfectly, all i need. Long runtimes on low modes…. and when on HIghest setting? i can see across a BIG yard pretty well, which is all in all, about ALL i can ASK from a cheap work headlight.

this thing has been dropped, kicked down steps, and skkidded across the floor like a hockey puck, worked fine. i am tickled pink with this thing…

i even find myself grabbing for it as a night light to have a smoke in the middle of the night. One sad day when the strap breaks? it will stay with me as a “throw in pocket, handy light” because of the long run times and easy charging on USB…

I even use it to ride my buddy’s kid’s little DIRT BIKE in the middle of the night… its a great little cheap light.

I even used it all WEEK as a “18650 battery charger” during the day when i dont need it much, when i forgot my dual bay recharger at HOME for the work week.

I threw some DC fix on the TIR and have to agree, for $10 this is a budget winner of a light…

+1

i would like a group buy with

cree led
some termal paste or glue between led mcpcb & headlamp body
a little more current to the led and lower minimum current

I received the RJ-02 yesterday and it worked fine except the ir sensor on/off function. When I double clicked the switch it lit up red as it is supposed to, but waving in front of the sensor regardless of how much or how far away will not turn on the light. Am I missing something here? Or do I have a faulty light. It’s a bummer because I chose it over others for this feature. This would be my 1st go around with GB CS if I have to do it. Not looking forward to it. Thoughts/opinions anyone?

I had the same Problem. Thought the light was faulty, but after removing the battery and putting it back in, the sensor worked as it should.

Fantastic!

JPLight you fixed my light. :+1: Thank you. :beer: :beer:

I reinstalled the battery and it worked…….once then it went back to no worky again. Reinstalled battery again and it’s been working ever since. Have to see how long it lasts but for now it’s a functioning unit. Thanks again for the info.

Interesting. Wonder if it’s a glitch in the FW. Maybe it has more than one mode of operation and cutting power quickly (while trying to get the cap screwed back on) changes the mode.

> 1.5 amps. With a nice XPL

Hmmmmm … would an XP-E2 fit that board? mtnelectronics says:

Or is that plastic insert chunky enough that it could be drilled out and wired to hold a normal emitter and Noctigon board with some heatsink value?
I realize the heat path would have to be from the front side toward the metal around the lens, not back through the plastic insert.

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I would think any emitter with an XP footprint could be reflowed to the stock board. I haven’t got the stock board out yet, but it doesn’t look like you could drill into it. It has traces and components on both the front and back.

I tried to replicate the glitch reported above by repeatedly changing a cell, but could not get it to happen.

I pulled the battery on my headlamp that had been working with the ir sensor. Re installed it and the ir sensor is back to non functioning. Repeated battery reinstalls and a change of batteries, both recently charged and relatively new, have yet to bring the feature back. :frowning:

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That sounds a lot like a faulty connection somewhere red72vw. I’d ask the vendor to send a replacement. This light is to hard to take apart to fix. I don’t think anyone has yet.

Thanks for the input, 4Wheelr.

I suspect that may be my best course of action.

So…….I’ve been messing with this light. After removing the plastic half of the battery tube, I noticed the bezel was loose. While tightening it I could see the pcb moving and becoming more perpendicular to the board that it is attached. The tip on the back of the optic was pushing the board. Put a battery in and ir function is working again. Loosen the bezel and pushed pcb back to original position and no worky. Moved back to perpendicular and it is okay once again. So I guess I have a bad connection or solder joint down in the recesses of this light. Moving the pcb to where it works doesn’t allow room to put battery tube back. With components on the back side of the pcb and just the barest of clearances with it and the battery, I’m concerned I will cause a major issue.

Some solutions that come to mind: 1) Modify the plastic half of the tube. 2) Smaller diameter battery.

I could try to return I suppose but it sounds like alot of hoops to jump through for a $10 light that may cost more to ship back and forth.

ImA4Wheelr—-Your pic of the light with tube out has the pcb looking like mine when I adjust it to work. To get the tube back in it pushes the pcb forward. Does the pcb fit between the open spot on the back of the tube on yours? Mine is too wide to fit in the recess. Does that pcb plug into the board it attached to? It looks like it might but I didn’t want to pull on it

Thoughts/Suggestions anyone?

Oh, how could I have forgot about that. I even posted a warning in Post #19 (see Edit2). I think what is going on is your IR sensor is not sticking out enough when that aluminum strip gets pushed back. Try to only tighten the bezel enough to not push the strip back. If you are brave, you can use a soldering iron to move the IR sensor legs out towards the front of the light.(not sure which one off the two 5mm thingies is the sensor).

If that is the problem, you will probably need to use some thread lock to keep the bezel from unscrewing. I recommend the lightest thread lock you can find. That way you can remove the bezel without damaging the light later.

EDIT: I’m guessing the black 5mm thingie is the IR receiver (sensor) and the clear 5mm thingie is a IR LED.

EDIT2: Maybe another option would be to wrap your cell with some thing to make it a tighter fit. That might put some pressure against the back of the aluminum strip. I don’t have my light with me to check that idea out.

Thanks for the quick reply, 4wheelr.

Actually the IR works when the aluminum strip is pushed back. When its pushed forward to allow the tube to be inserted, it fails. Looks to be on a small angle when in this position. Leads me to believe a solder joint or connection of the aluminum bar to the board with pos. battery spring is bodgy.