Manker T01 - Tune up time

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TheDude
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Manker T01 - Tune up time

Update 12/19/218 –

I installed the CSLPM1.TG (2mm) in my T01 yesterday and did some initial measurements.
Using a freshly charged Windyfire 600mah 14500 I got the following numbers at 15 feet.
Turn On – 48kcd / 30 seconds – 45kcd / 1.5 minutes – 43kcd
After the first test the battery was at 4.09 volts. I tested again and got:
Turn On – 46kcd / 30 seconds – 44kcd / 1.5 minutes – 42.5kcd

I’m not 100% happy though because the LED lead wires could be shorter and the reflector isn’t in the best shape. I have another reflector in the mail that Manker is sending me free of charge, only paid 3 bucks for the shipping. So I will retest after shortening the wires and installing the new reflector.

Update 12/3/2018 -

I’ve been using my T01 with a de-domed Nichia 219C and stock driver for a few years and just recently noticed that some of the phosphor has come off of the emitter. Time for a tune up. I have some new Osram “white flats” in the mail and I’m trying to decide if it is worth replacing the stock driver with a MTN FET+7135 or just keep it as is. I will be using a high-drain Windyfire 600mah 14500 and I’m going to try out a CSLPM1.TG (2mm2) first to see what it will do, but I’m betting I will prefer the CSLNM1.TG (1mm2).

So it’s really just down to what driver I want to use. Anyone have luck replacing the driver in a T01?

Thanks,


Update 6/6/2016 –

After being a bit disappointed with the de-domed Nichia in my C8 host (135K) I decided to try it out in my Manker T01. I figured that the low Vf of the Nichia would be better suited for a host that has more difficulty pushing big amps. I was right. With the XPL Hi I was consistently getting around 21-22K at 5M. After swapping to the Nichia I got exactly 29K (33.5K w/ fully charged battery) at 5M. Plus the tint is a bit warmer, a plus for me, and the beam pattern actually looked less “ringy.” The spill is the same but the hotspot is a bit tighter. It was not an easy swap though as the 20mm Noctigon MCPCB had to be sanded down quite a bit to fit in the pill and I had to take a little material off the reflector as well. That being said I think the results justified the means.

Edit: Turns out I was using a half drained battery earlier. Just tested again with a fully charged windyfire 14500 and got 33.5Kcd!

imagebam.com
imagebam.com

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

Edited by: TheDude on 12/19/2018 - 11:11
EasyB
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Nice application and result. Do you know the current through the emitter?

Also, how did you dedome the 219c? I have done some dedoming experimentation with the 219c D320. I sliced a large chunk of the dome off with a blade, then sanded it flat with 600-1500 grit sand paper and finished it off with toothpaste. I was able to sand the silicone flat to about 0.1-0.2mm above the phosphor. Like you, I got underwhelming results. I got almost 300kcd at ~5.5A in a UF-1504. Compared with ~510kcd with a dedomed old XP-G2 at ~4A in the same host.

TheDude
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I did not measure the current to the emitter and to be honest I don’t think I will attempt to because I had a hell of a time getting the emitter centered in the reflector. I could try to get a tailcap measurement if that helps.

For the dedoming I have posted in other threads that I use this KleanStrip. It’s a gel that I set on top of the led dome. The key is to set a “blob” on top for 20 minutes or so while occasionally swirling the gel around the led. After this time I remove the gel by blowing it off with compressed air. It usually takes a few rounds of this to completely dissolve the dome. I have never had a bad tint shift either, just makes it a bit warmer. It has eaten through every LED dome I have tried it on so far and I intend to try it on an XP-G3 when I get one.

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

EasyB
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I don’t blame you; re-fiddling with the emitter wires is too much of a pain. I forgot the driver is a boost/buck type.

Were you using a smooth reflector in your c8 host?

TheDude
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Convoy C8 V3 with smooth reflector, updated version MTN 17mm FET driver with spring bypass, tail switch spring bypass, Samsung 30Q high discharge 18650.

Looking back at my records now here is what I measured: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/950005#comment-950005
De-domed Nichia 219C – 140K ( After running for less than a minute on turbo it was too hot to even touch the head of the light Shocked )
De-domed XP-G2 S4 – 185K (No overheating issues)

If you are trying to extrapolate if my de-dome was more effective from my testing with a C8 compared to your tests with the 1504 you can see that in your host the 219 is only able to produce 60% of what the XP-G2 does while in my test it was able to produce closer to 75%. Not apples to apples but I think it’s pretty definitive.

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

EasyB
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Yes, I’m just trying to get another data point on what this LED can do. Thanks for your info. Our results might be pretty close, considering you prob had significantly more current than 5.5A through the 219c.

ReManG
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Nice mod! I tried to put a domed 219C in my T01 and just got issues with the driver. The light was flaky on the lower levels. I thought this was due to any number of things like bad contact between driver and body, inadvertent ground from over tightening the LED board screws (reflowed on stock board) but nothing. Put the stock LED back and no issues… Glad to see this one works! I really like the T01 except for the tint. Would you have any pictures of the noctigon and mods to the reflector you made?

Thanks!

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TheDude
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EasyB wrote:
Yes, I’m just trying to get another data point on what this LED can do. Thanks for your info. Our results might be pretty close, considering you prob had significantly more current than 5.5A through the 219c.

Very true. I wouldn’t be surprised if I was pushing over 7amps just from the heat it was producing.

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

TheDude
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ReManG wrote:
Nice mod! I tried to put a domed 219C in my T01 and just got issues with the driver. The light was flaky on the lower levels. I thought this was due to any number of things like bad contact between driver and body, inadvertent ground from over tightening the LED board screws (reflowed on stock board) but nothing. Put the stock LED back and no issues… Glad to see this one works! I really like the T01 except for the tint. Would you have any pictures of the noctigon and mods to the reflector you made?

Thanks!

I don’t unfortunately. My modding sessions are typically pretty fast paced in order to get everything finished in the little time I have. I will make a few drawing tomorrow to show what the modifications looked like.

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

TheDude
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Pill Modifications: I decided to drill a 3/8” hole in the side of the pill opposite from the e-switch to give relief for the negative pad on the MCPCB. I first drilled a 3/16” pilot whole through from the inside of the pill wall to the outside as close to the floor / MCPCB surface as possible. Then drilled from the outside of the pill in very slowly with the 3/8” bit until I gave enough relief for the positive pad of the MCPCB to pass through but not clean through to avoid removing material from the floor of the pill. The opposite side of the pill already has material removed for the e-switch so I didn’t have to give relief there.

imagebam.com

MCPCB Modifications: I sanded the areas off that are marked in green on the picture below. The pad was oriented in the pill so that the + terminal set in the relief hole and the negative terminal in the relief for the e-switch. I drilled through the screw holes in the pill with a 3/16” bit to remove just enough material to allow the set screws to clamp down on the pad. The wires were fed up through the existing relief slots in the MCPCB.
I SHOULD have sanded the bottom of the pad to make it thinner. Sanding it down from 1.55mm to 1.2mm would have probably been enough. This would have removed the need to modify the reflector. The MCPCB was such a tight fit in the pill that I had to use a socket to press it in to place and once it was in place I didn’t want to try to remove it.

imagebam.com

Reflector modifications: I sanded .2-.3mm off the top of the reflector to allow the bezel to screw on. Not recommended; sand the MCPCB thinner instead.

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

Drift Monkey
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I’m curious, did you get better results with the XP-L HI or the 219C dedomed in the C8 host?

TheDude
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Update 12/3/2018 -

I’ve been using my T01 with a de-domed Nichia 219C and stock driver for a few years and just recently noticed that some of the phosphor has come off of the emitter. Time for a tune up. I have some new Osram “white flats” in the mail and I’m trying to decide if it is worth replacing the stock driver with a MTN FET+7135 or just keep it as is. I will be using a high-drain Windyfire 600mah 14500 and I’m going to try out a CSLPM1.TG (2mm2) first to see what it will do, but I’m betting I will prefer the CSLNM1.TG (1mm2).

So it’s really just down to what driver I want to use. Anyone have luck replacing the driver in a T01?

Thanks,

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

TheDude
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Update 12/19/218 –

I installed the CSLPM1.TG (2mm) in my T01 yesterday and did some initial measurements.
Using a freshly charged Windyfire 600mah 14500 I got the following numbers at 15 feet.
Turn On – 48kcd / 30 seconds – 45kcd / 1.5 minutes – 43kcd
After the first test the battery was at 4.09 volts. I tested again and got:
Turn On – 46kcd / 30 seconds – 44kcd / 1.5 minutes – 42.5kcd

I’m not 100% happy though because the LED lead wires could be shorter and the reflector isn’t in the best shape. I have another reflector in the mail that Manker is sending me free of charge, only paid 3 bucks for the shipping. So I will retest after shortening the wires and installing the new reflector.

That's just like . . . your opinion man.

Nicolicous
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any beam shots?

Nico -.-

TheDude
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There is a lot of ambient light near by but all of the light in the foreground and on the target is from the T01.

100 yards to tree

I’m still using the stock driver which I measured at around 3.5 amps at the tail cap. I will be trying a MTN FET+7135 diver in a few weeks and I will post my results.

That's just like . . . your opinion man.