The error is NOT related to the fuses. USBASP can’t connect to the mcu, check the connection. In case of wrong mcu type setting you will get an other error message.
Edit:
if you’ve programmed the ATtiny25 before with the fuse settings for Attiny13 you can’t program it anymore without a special programmer. In this case the above error message (2nd) may apply. It happened to me once but I can’t recall the specific error message.
The 1st error message is not important and can be ignored.
Got it working by desoldering the attiny from the pcb and flashing it alone .
My latest order from oshpark (fet+1 drivers) seems to have something wrong … Built today 4 drivers : one with attiny25 , and it works like a one mode driver (like the led - and the ground is connected) , and 3 with attiny13a that don’t even light up…. Checked all 4 for shorts , but there aren’t any….
Sharpie i posted on the drivers thread , seems one pcb (the one with tiny25) had a short from the factory .
The other 3 drivers i don’t know what’s the issue .
Anybody tried the SSN( 105c) version of those controllers? Cause currently my biggest issue is the overheating, on theory they shouldbe the same
Give a clue or link - what are you referring to? What is "those controllers"?
Talking about the 105 degrees C version of ttiny 13 and 25: i see they are awailable at Mouser, at least the 25v SSN
Dang, thought you were talk'n bout Nanjg drivers. Hhmm, never heard bout over-heating issues. What happens? Has anyone else said/noticed this? Are the 25's more prone than the 13A to overheating? What 25 boards are you using - those Astrolux ones?
I use wight’s boards from the development thread , v013 . i build them from scratch .
Sorry I was responding to Mitko. But anyway, what are doing to handle the voltage spikes that cause the 25 to reset? Are you scoping the signals? Generic 13A boards and parts usually result in flaky problems with 25/45/85's -- all noted earlier in this thread.
BangGood (or Manker) that developed the 25 driver for the X5/X6's (runs Bistro) used a 12 uF cap, not the standard 10 uF cap -- that seems to fix the problems on that board (well they think it fixed it mostly), But I've done more.
Yes TOm, the controller is overheating and starts acting wierd, happenes too often in smaller lights like S2( mostly) and C8s with longer turbo run time
Nope, Astro drivers are bad - bad caps, bad soldering work too
I use fet +1 v 09 and now for the first time i used V14 boards
I dunno - I either forgot about this heat problem or never heard it before. Has the topic ever come up? I've run lights to the untouchable level, but do't recall seeing anything wierd.
Edit: But.. You got me think'n. Maybe when they are that hot, I just turn them off and don't play with modes, etc. Guess it depends on the nature of the weird problems - flaky while just running in a mode, or flaky when operating (changing modes, etc.).
I feel like this might just be a big development. 
:+1:
I recommend the cheap ones from ebay, there are several vendors, e. g.:
You’ll need more than one if you are going to use them often, this clips - also the expensive ones - don’t last forever. I used the expensive clips of 3M and Pomona before, they have not been better than the cheap ebay ones.
As you probably know you will have to re-wire the connector.
I agree with Mike.
I have flashed over 30 drivers the last 3 months with the cheap soic8 clip from ebay without any issue.
Me as well. I must have flashed the same driver at least 100 times with the 4$ model which comes with the grey cable and small PCB. I find the extra cable length useful. It isn’t showing any sign of wear so far but I am very careful with my stuff.
Finally got the drivers working , but with some problems .
The fet+1 with the attiny13a (a6 firmware), have very short times for the half clicks , nearly impossible to click . Is there any way to have longer times ?
The other driver , the one with the attiny25 (bistro firmware) seems it has one “empty” mode before moon .
The ” empty ” mode( its actualy a true moonlight, you can turn it off in the menu, 3th blink) is caused by the mosfet( high int resistance) and/or poor solder joints
WIll you post a pic of that driver pls( a macro one if possible)
As long as the hardware is not faulty I would first try to adjust the regarding definitions in “tk-calibration.h”.
// The OTC value 0.5s after being disconnected from power
// (anything higher than this is a "short press")
#define CAP_SHORT 190
// The OTC value 1.5s after being disconnected from power
// Between CAP_MED and CAP_SHORT is a "medium press"
#define CAP_MED 94 // Below CAP_MED is a long press
To increase switch times you have to decrease the values.
But it’s the 7135 that controls moonlight , right ? I will try to increase the value in the firmware and try again.
About the 13A drivers , the solution is probably the one Flashy Mike mentioned . Any clue how much lower should the values be ?
They are not cheap caps from ebay , but it’s the X7R from Farnell . Will try Mikes method before changing something 