Mike C drivers and X85 firmware.

I know exactly what you mean :slight_smile: Debugging firmware is about as much fun as debugging multithread code and ignorance is bliss.

On top of what PPDB22 wrote, keep in mind that there are probably under twenty people here who could read and understand that code. And I think we could really use a “firmware index” thread.

There is such a thread Flashlight Firmware Repository

Thanks, I knew of ToyKeeper’s repository but somehow never realized that thread was also a sort of index.

Mike C, if I remember correctly, you’re the one whose drivers have cell level readout, OTC and e-switch all on the same pin, right?

Thanks for sharing your time & work, Mike C. :beer:

Great 10x for your time and efforts m8, so far so good, you did a good job on the firmware too - i like F-8 v2

Actualy, most fo the time ppl dont need that fancy firmwares ( including me), 2-3 modes plus eventualy moonlight…. and strobe( for bikers)

Likewise. I dont understand a lot that goes on here but do understand the time put in. :beer:

Thanks for the positive comments all :beer:

Yep. All the drivers listed in the OP work like this and use my X85 firmware.

Yeah, I do know what you mean. I thought so too, but then I wanted to use constant current instead of PWM, and that required more pins, so I combined three functions on one pin, then after using them down in mines I got all these different ideas, and took ideas from friends… and then wanted to be able to configure the lights I’d built for them with them in the mines… and now here we are :slight_smile:
All the development stuff, configurable stuff and readouts are totally useless for people who flash their drivers and are done with it. I use that stuff because I set people’s lights up as they want in person out in the field away from computers and crap. Maybe one day I’ll release a “clean” version with all that crap cut out, leaving the bare essentials. Who knows, it might even fit into the ATtiny25 by then.

Bistro uses 2048 bytes. Meanwhile, blf-a6 with the runtime config parts removed uses 710 bytes. The difference is almost entirely the soft config options. I wouldn’t be surprised if yours went from 7500 bytes down to 2000 without the config options.

A light with one of my drivers and firmware is in the mail, so I have updated post #3 with dual switch setup info.

I’ve thought a little about making a clean version and I don’t think I will. If most of the features and functions are useless… don’t use them. Set the right driver type, then the mode levels under DEFAULT SETTINGS at the top of the C file, and it’s done. I believe I’ve made those definitions easy enough to understand, so if there is no interest in the rest, there’s no need to bother about the rest. Boost timers, low voltage thresholds, mode direction and all that stuff is also set by definitions. Set ’em and forget ’em.

Besides, making it smaller so it fits into the ATtiny25 is pointless for me. I’ll save like 0.5$ by switching to the 25, even less for low voltage versions, at least when buying from my component supplier. It’s too much work for 50 cents.

Dual switch= wow! I’m determined to build one of these now. I’ve started plans to build a BLF d80 with an added side switch. I think that will be my perfect opportunity. I will keep you informed.

OK, time for some user opinions from here!

Tested this light a few times now.

To be short, what I like:

- Voltage level / real voltage indication

- PWM not noticeable (big factor for me)

- UI1. It is very good for my use “As Is”. 4 modes with either this “back & forth” style or shot-cycle style is what I like.

  • UI4: the adjustment goes insanely low BUT the brightness steps go slower at the lowlow end. I have had several adjustable lights back some time ago, where you
    had to be really fast to catch the lowest low to stick with you. Not with this.

Not so favorite things to me:

- UI2 & UI3, I´m not a special fan of Boost mode although it might become handy if you use lower mode and just want to take a Quick Peek with higher power mode.

  • Dual switch light in general, I have owned only a couple of them but again, this is about who prefers and what…

At the moment, I havent programmed parameters. Changed one mode a bit though.
I think as far as I have tested, that this driver works flawlessly! :sunglasses:

Thanks for the comments, appreciated :beer:

The light goes as low as all the way down to 0 in PWM off that single PWM dedicated AMC7135. I slowed it down so once could easily make a moon mode.
I use fast PWM. I tested phase correct PWM, but the moonlight levels where a lot more spaced with phase correct and I couldn’t be bothered to have a routine that switches between fast and phase correct depending on PWM level… So I just kept it on fast PWM through the whole range.

Updated firmware to v1.3, a few changes regarding off time measurements, voltage measurements and timeouts.

Post #3 updated with a video showing dual switch interfaces and mode selections.
Post #4 updated with off time info and a video showing off switch interfaces and mode selections.

Sorry about the quality of the videos, the crappy phone camera kept changing brightness and focusing. And I sound like I’m falling asleep… It was late, I hope what I say makes some kind of sense and it’s not just all mumbo jumbo (a lot of it is). I tried to make the videos short and not just blabber on but I didn’t succeed, they are pretty long. I might have to make better ones later.

Note: The firmware changed slightly since I made those videos but I couldn’t be bothered to make new ones. The difference is with special mode 3 (programming mode brightness for UI 1 & 2 modes). I’ve removed the timeout that exits programming mode. It will now stay in constant programming mode until the light is turned off for about 5 to 6 seconds, so there is no rush to adjust those modes to perfection.

A heads up. A few people have ordered boards through me, I don’t know the progress, but for those that are interested in these boards it might be good to know that I’m taking three months of leave starting 1st of August. My girlfriend and I will be taking our self built camper van on a climbing trip through Europe to be (as Americans would call it) “dirtbag climbers”. so I won’t be spending much time in front of computers. I might pop in once every two weeks or so but I wouldn’t count on it. So if anyone want’s to build one of my drivers (or order a fully built one) within the next three months or so, drop me a PM so we can sort it out before I leave.

Amazing how you guys do what you do and that does not include building campers. The holiday sounds like something you have planned for awhile.

Following. Please do not delete. Thank you

Real nice Mike! Haven't looked at the code yet, but will try to get to it soon. I hear you though - it's a ton of time and easy to get burnt out on.

We have taken our van through Europe every year the last four years but been limited to four weeks of vacation. Returning from the last was painful, we had the alps in our rear view mirror for hours and hours on our way back. How long do we have to be away to want to go home again? Four weeks is not enough, so now we’re trying three months. Our home away from home:

Thanks. If you want to use some of it for Narsil, feel free. Although a lot of it is specific for my driver design, there might be something of use without much modifications.

Are you sure thats not the Tardis? Looks massive inside. Is the van left or right hand drive? There is no way I could get my head around the steering wheel on the wrong side and driving on the opposite side of the road to what we do here. :slight_smile:

It’s not massive inside, I shot that photo with a wide angle lens :slight_smile:

Left hand drive. Except for the UK we all drive on the right side of the road here in Europe. I’ve done a fair bit of driving in the UK and Australia and don’t mind right hand drive at all, it just takes a day or two to “convert” each time.

Thanks for sharing!
F-8 v2 looks fantastic!

I just can’t download the firmware for some reason :frowning: