ENEDED

Is it true that newer lights have a true moonlight mode? In that review the guy got one with a true moonlight, maybe a defect.

I tried two M3 chargers, two different 16340s, one 220V input, the other USB input.
The M3 chargers charge up to exactly 4.27V on both tries.
Seems to be a little over the borderline.

Edit: Indeed, OTR UC3 charger did overcharge my OTR 16340 battery to 4.28V. Full gift set buyers please beware of this issue.
I am charging my OTR battery via USB. 4.21V is measured in the bay. Will let you know my completed voltage in a while.

Got mine today, full gift set - really, really nice so far - love the tint. I was soooo disappointed with the S1, and I bought two, one is still unopened in the box. The blue tint of the S1 is ridiculous, plus locked in un-replaceable LED.

Of course I'm not crazy about the UI with the pres&hold. Seems almost broken that a single click from OFF does nothing. Much rather have the ramping UI of Narsil, or the mode sets, plus the power. Now the fun begins - seeing if it I can get full access to the driver and get a ATtiny85 based driver in there.

The tint looks absolutely perfect to me - no shading around the hot spot, just a nice milky white, slight hint of yellow. I dunno where you can buy a U2 5C - makes you wonder how legit it is. I only see "5X" tints in a T5 bin at best (MtnE has a listed T6 5C1, but limited). I'll drop in a fully charge 16340 IMR and measure it up - see what the real turbo level is.

Also it seems to throw decently for it's size, much better than the S1.

I think I'll xfer the LED to a Noctigon at first - well worth keeping it. The stock MCPCB appears to be regular aluminum.

You cant compare it to the s1, its more a s10 clone.

Impressive review Mr freeme!!!
Thanks!!

I hear you, but I figure I can compare it - it's a 16340 light, so is my S1. I don't have an S10, I have an S1. I have other 16340 lights as well, but budget cheap ones. So, the S1 is all I can compare it to, so I will. I have other disappointing Olight lights and I'm fine with never buying another Olight again, until they make them serviceable and upgradable, and stop fooling us by giving out review samples that are not glued, and shipping production units that are glued.

I'll take a clone of an Olight light over the "original" every time. Chances are better than 50% the clone will be better in quality, tint, usability and serviceability, so why not?

This is an interesting perspective, but one that I can certainly understand. I don’t actually own any Olights - mostly because I won’t pay what they want retail and I’ve just recently found this forum.

I’ve got an M3 on order and hope to see it soon. I purchased it based largely on this review (and the GearBest Flash sale) because I’m interested in small, powerful lights. After reading everyone’s comments, I can’t wait to get ahold of it.

This may be a silly question, given that it requires button top batteries, but can someone confirm that the battery shipped with the full set IS a button top? This will be my first light with this battery size, so if I need to get some batteries ordered I should do that now.

Awesome thread. Thanks to Freeme and everyone else who contributed information on this.

Yes, I'm frustrated with Olights... I got 2 S1's, one S15, and one S30 - all pretty useless to me. I guess I was over estimating my modding skills, think'n I could get them apart and fix up the UI, tint, and power, but, they are nothing but trouble...

For the battery - Yes, it's a button top. Did you order the 5C tint? I measured lumens for all modes in my PVC light box. #'s across the board are lower, including the ultra low mode.

For the 5C tint using a fresh EFEST V2 550 @4.20v:

Ultra low: 2.3 lumens, low: 114 lumens, med: 224 lumens, hi: 456 lumens, turbo: 658 lumens

I'm think'n the 5C is not a U2 bin, but probably a T6 at best, more likely a T5 and that explains most of the lower readings.

I was able to pop out the pill - not difficult to do. A couple of light taps on a plunger (syringe plunger from a solder paste needle) from the tail and the pill assembly pushed out the top, after removing the bezel and reflector as freeme did, earlier posted.

Bad news is there's not much space, because the switch is mounted on a vertical PCB, and the diameter of the driver is pretty small. Piggybacking, maybe a 12 mm driver would fit. Good news is I do have 10 mm MtnE FET driver boards and a couple parts kits for the 10mm baords, so it's certainly do-able with what I have on-hand.

Also of note, they used thermal grease under the star with a screwed down reflector -- potentially bad combo, along with sharp edges for the wire holes. Mine had a tear through the LED+ wire at the point it passes through the pill top - potentially bad ground out could happen easy. The wires are either 26 or 24 AWG and 150C rated, not the better 200C wires we use. I'll take the sharp edges off the holes (using an xacto), and replace or cut down the wires before re-assembling. The side button is simple and will not get damaged from removing the pill - unlike the Olights.

Pics of the pill/driver:

Typical thin (~1.0 mm) alum MCPCB:

threads on reflector. There are two small guide holes on the top of the reflector that work well with SS tweezers:

Sharp edges in the holes love to cut silicone coatings:

Extra long wires, fairly thin:

Low Batt LED and it's resistor:

MCU #'s are sanded off, but GRND is on pin #8, so it's not an Atmel:

Possible resistor mod, maybe to those R050's:

The driver mounted in that brass ring easily popped out of the pill with a couple light taps on a screw driver ( I used a nail set), on the lip of brass where it's exposed, just under the switch.

Awesome pics Tom, thank you! Does the LED look real?

Sure - looks CREE legit, also does well on a typical thin alum MCPCB, so it has to be genuine to get those output #'s, plus the super nice tint.

amazing posts and pictures/information Tom, thanks!

Thanks for the images and clarifications Tom E. I did get the 5C model, but I think those outputs will suffice for my use. If I choose to get a second one, I’ll try the 1A model.

After looking at your images, it’s pretty clear that some cleanup on the pill and boards might be necessary, but that’s easy enough if it performs well.

Your comments and images connected the OP and other comments to give a really complete picture of this torch. Thanks again.

Thanks for the pictures, this ones just my type for fixin up a bit :slight_smile:

I did some minor modding with my M3 last night. The LED sits on a 16mm aluminum MCPCB that is ~1.0 mm thick. So I hot air removed the LED. I took a 16 mm Noctigon and sanded it down to about 1.35 mm thickness (from 1.6 mm stock), and reflowed the same LED on to it. I replaced the LED wires with shorter minimum length 24 AWG wires, and used a good thermal grease (GC-Extreme).

Results were nice, as expected. After 30 secs on turbo, I got a true 10% bump in lumens output, and noticed in the first 30 secs, output doesn't drop as much as it used to. Ultra low and low were unaffected, and small bump in hi mode.

Original stock turbo, lumens: 680 @start, 658 @30 secs

On Noctigon turbo, lumens: 734 @start, 724 @30 secs

So even at a relatively low 2.28A, a copper DTP MCPCB makes a nice difference.

Still want to get a decent driver in there, but may have to wait a while.

Mine too.

I bought a pack gift to give away to a beginner…
I hate “protected” but I will buy one to change it. I do not think it will be is a problem, aside to shorten battery life, but…

Edit… Checking the battery capacity on MC3000, 1A discharge rate and cut at 3V.
Charged on OTR… 4.27V… 668mAh
Charged on I4… 4.20V… 633mAh

Can be 4.35V battery? I will charge it with the OTR and I will observe for a few days.

Thank you for your post. A 16340 4.35V? I am curious about your results. Could you please report here.
If you buy protected, watch the size. I tried Olight and AW 16340. It worked but I heard the spring cracking inside when I srcewed down the tailcap.

My M3 5C came in today… This is a nice little light. I may install a Noctigon at some point, but it is not really needed. This is plenty of light output for this class of light. Freeme, thanks for the deal!

Does anyone know of a way to disable the low voltage blinking? Using 3v CR123 primary’s the LV blinker blinks constantly. Giving one to my Father-in-law along with 4 Panasonic CR123A’s.

I purchased 2 lights without the kit. I will pick up some 16340’s for myself, but my FIL won’t want to deal with charging flashlight batteries.