ENEDED

LED Flashlights – General Info Other Battery Type Flashlights
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Yes, I'm frustrated with Olights... I got 2 S1's, one S15, and one S30 - all pretty useless to me. I guess I was over estimating my modding skills, think'n I could get them apart and fix up the UI, tint, and power, but, they are nothing but trouble...

For the battery - Yes, it's a button top. Did you order the 5C tint? I measured lumens for all modes in my PVC light box. #'s across the board are lower, including the ultra low mode.

For the 5C tint using a fresh EFEST V2 550 @4.20v:

Ultra low: 2.3 lumens, low: 114 lumens, med: 224 lumens, hi: 456 lumens, turbo: 658 lumens

I'm think'n the 5C is not a U2 bin, but probably a T6 at best, more likely a T5 and that explains most of the lower readings.

I was able to pop out the pill - not difficult to do. A couple of light taps on a plunger (syringe plunger from a solder paste needle) from the tail and the pill assembly pushed out the top, after removing the bezel and reflector as freeme did, earlier posted.

Bad news is there's not much space, because the switch is mounted on a vertical PCB, and the diameter of the driver is pretty small. Piggybacking, maybe a 12 mm driver would fit. Good news is I do have 10 mm MtnE FET driver boards and a couple parts kits for the 10mm baords, so it's certainly do-able with what I have on-hand.

Also of note, they used thermal grease under the star with a screwed down reflector -- potentially bad combo, along with sharp edges for the wire holes. Mine had a tear through the LED+ wire at the point it passes through the pill top - potentially bad ground out could happen easy. The wires are either 26 or 24 AWG and 150C rated, not the better 200C wires we use. I'll take the sharp edges off the holes (using an xacto), and replace or cut down the wires before re-assembling. The side button is simple and will not get damaged from removing the pill - unlike the Olights.

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Pics of the pill/driver:

Typical thin (~1.0 mm) alum MCPCB:

threads on reflector. There are two small guide holes on the top of the reflector that work well with SS tweezers:

Sharp edges in the holes love to cut silicone coatings:

Extra long wires, fairly thin:

Low Batt LED and it's resistor:

MCU #'s are sanded off, but GRND is on pin #8, so it's not an Atmel:

Possible resistor mod, maybe to those R050's:

The driver mounted in that brass ring easily popped out of the pill with a couple light taps on a screw driver ( I used a nail set), on the lip of brass where it's exposed, just under the switch.

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Awesome pics Tom, thank you! Does the LED look real?

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Sure - looks CREE legit, also does well on a typical thin alum MCPCB, so it has to be genuine to get those output #'s, plus the super nice tint.

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amazing posts and pictures/information Tom, thanks!

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Thanks for the images and clarifications Tom E. I did get the 5C model, but I think those outputs will suffice for my use. If I choose to get a second one, I’ll try the 1A model.

After looking at your images, it’s pretty clear that some cleanup on the pill and boards might be necessary, but that’s easy enough if it performs well.

Your comments and images connected the OP and other comments to give a really complete picture of this torch. Thanks again.

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Thanks for the pictures, this ones just my type for fixin up a bit :slight_smile:

42

I did some minor modding with my M3 last night. The LED sits on a 16mm aluminum MCPCB that is ~1.0 mm thick. So I hot air removed the LED. I took a 16 mm Noctigon and sanded it down to about 1.35 mm thickness (from 1.6 mm stock), and reflowed the same LED on to it. I replaced the LED wires with shorter minimum length 24 AWG wires, and used a good thermal grease (GC-Extreme).

Results were nice, as expected. After 30 secs on turbo, I got a true 10% bump in lumens output, and noticed in the first 30 secs, output doesn't drop as much as it used to. Ultra low and low were unaffected, and small bump in hi mode.

Original stock turbo, lumens: 680 @start, 658 @30 secs

On Noctigon turbo, lumens: 734 @start, 724 @30 secs

So even at a relatively low 2.28A, a copper DTP MCPCB makes a nice difference.

Still want to get a decent driver in there, but may have to wait a while.

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Mine too.

I bought a pack gift to give away to a beginner…
I hate “protected” but I will buy one to change it. I do not think it will be is a problem, aside to shorten battery life, but…

Edit… Checking the battery capacity on MC3000, 1A discharge rate and cut at 3V.
Charged on OTR… 4.27V… 668mAh
Charged on I4… 4.20V… 633mAh

Can be 4.35V battery? I will charge it with the OTR and I will observe for a few days.

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Thank you for your post. A 16340 4.35V? I am curious about your results. Could you please report here.
If you buy protected, watch the size. I tried Olight and AW 16340. It worked but I heard the spring cracking inside when I srcewed down the tailcap.

45

My M3 5C came in today… This is a nice little light. I may install a Noctigon at some point, but it is not really needed. This is plenty of light output for this class of light. Freeme, thanks for the deal!

46

Does anyone know of a way to disable the low voltage blinking? Using 3v CR123 primary’s the LV blinker blinks constantly. Giving one to my Father-in-law along with 4 Panasonic CR123A’s.

I purchased 2 lights without the kit. I will pick up some 16340’s for myself, but my FIL won’t want to deal with charging flashlight batteries.

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and I thought my CR123 was running out of juice. Guess not. Thanks. I like how it lights up RED with OTR on it.

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I just tested with my Soshine RCR123 3V LiFePo4. LVP kicked in about 2.8V. I doubt that is a method to disable the flashing red light.

Forgive my ignorance, is there driver that is able to differentiate the battery types and fully drain the cell?

49

I received mine today. I ordered the 1A and I’m going to tell you that is the brightest 600 lumens I’ve ever seen. It’s as bright as my convoy s2 8*7135 1a. You can’t tell the difference between them when I double click my OTR M3 it’s bright. I really love it.

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I don’t think there is any driver that can differentiate cell types. You would think it would be easy to code the driver to disable the blinking LV indicator, since they had to code it to function in the first place. My Chinese is nil or I would email them to ask.

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The Fenix E15 does kind of differentiate. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37480

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I have an S2+ 8*7135 arriving so I can’t compare yet but someone did a review here and basically said the same.

So far this light is taking over my Olight S1 for EDC duty. I’m tempted to get another one.

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Convoy S2+ 8*7135 should be brighter as OTR M3 is ~400mA behind.

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That is a very good video review.I agree 100% to me it is every bit of 920 lumens.