Astrolux S1 replacement head issues (Resolved)

My Astrolux S1 arrived with a broken driver (first 3 modes identical and other problems). BG has sent a replacement head but it has its own issues. I’d appreciate some input.

The replacement head is from a BLF A6 rather than an Astrolux S1. It fits and basically works, although the threads on the S1 head seem much smoother. The logo is not a major issue for me but the anodization does not match the body; the BLF head has a lighter (and more matt) finish, and the reflector is disappointingly dirty (water stains?).

The main issue is that the tint is different. I ordered a 3D S1 and the partially-working flashlight I received seemed to fit that bill, but what do I know? The replacement is a warmer white and less bright. Has BG sent the wrong tint or is this just a result of the original broken driver causing a tint shift? Was the original a 3D?

The beamshots are taken in Turbo mode, which I understand to be direct driven by the FET so hopefully unaffected by any problems with the 7135 on the S1 head. My camera is fairly simple but I’ve tried to keep the exposure etc. the same on both beamshots.

Any comment on the tints? It would be good to be able to steer BG to a happy conclusion of this saga.

S1:

A6:

Heads:

Three were 3 tints available. 1A...3D...5A

Thanks for replying. I realise it’s hard to tell from the photos but I was hoping for some clues as which of the three tints I have. Or, for starters, if the two heads really are different tints. My eyes say they are but it seemed a good idea to at least consider if the difference could be a result of the S1 driver being borked, or inadequate photographic skills.

In case it provides any clues, here’s the label from the bubblewrap in which the new head arrived:

…and the sticker from the S1 box, which nods in the direction of it being a 3D.

I wouldn’t be happy with that outcome. These Chinese sellers frequently try and cut corners by doing things like that.

I’m far from happy but I do expect BG to put it right, eventually.

I cannot tell you from the pics because I do not know what you originally had.

First, let me say that you do not have a driver problem. Warmer tints give slightly less output but the benefit is that warmer tints give better colors and are easier on the eyes.

There is no way to tell just by looking at an unlit emitter what the tint is and barcode mixups can and do happen. If you really prefer the tint you originally had changing it is as simple as can be...two solder connections and your done so there really is nothing to worry about. Just FYI...the warmer tints were the most sought after and hardest to get so if you do not have any warm or neutral tints you might consider giving this one a chance before you swap it.

Last...your situation is not one of malice or shortcutting.

Since you have the S1 which is working except for the driver you can anyways put another one into it. $5 or so for a new one from BG or you can use the one from the replacement head.

You just have to disassemble the head and unsolder 2 connections, put the new driver in, and then resolder the connections.

With the tint lottery one can see differences even with the same tints.

I was referring to the point you made about being sent a head from a different model!

Thanks again. No, I don’t for one moment think it’s malice, I think someone simply dispatched the replacement without checking it was the right part, in terms of finish and tint.

The original S1 head most definitely had a driver problem as half the modes were not working. I am not suggesting the A6 head has a driver problem. I believe that somewhere along the way Toykeeper mentioned that the tint can vary depending on the mix of 7135 and FET current paths, so I was asking if a faulty or mis-soldered 7135 might conceivably affect tint.

In the meantime I’ve largely convinced myself that the original was a 3D and the replacement is a 5A. That’s my best guess, anyway, based on what I expected and the label on the S1 box. I have a strong preference for the 3D, I did not choose that tint without some thought.

Switching the emitter and driver over to the S1 head would be a last resort for me, not least because I lack a suitable soldering iron and the S1 head is resolutely refusing to come apart. Some heating and selective cooling probably required. But in any case I chose this light explicitly to have something fairly decent at a budget price without resorting to any level of modding in the short term (naive, perhaps…). And, of course, I’d like BG to supply what I paid for.

I’ve reported the issue to them and await a response.

Edit: Corrected 1A to 5A following diplomatic response by SIGShooter…

Thanks, I am definitely interested to know if the tint lottery could account for the difference shown in my beamshots (poor as they are). To me it seems a bit too pronounced for that explanation but I don’t have that much experience on which to base an opinion.

For now, surgery is not an option.

The A6 on my phone looks warmer to me so I’d guess it’s a 5A. Then again I also have 64 year old eyes :frowning:

The heads on my A6’s didn’t want to come apart either but 2 small pipe wrenches got them separated quickly. I wrapped the heads in duct tape so no damage to the metal.

I agree about getting a working light out-of-the box but it’s too frustrating trying to get things resolved with overseas vendors. Then again I’ve destroyed numerous things trying to fix them but what the heck, it’s a hobby :person_facepalming:

Whoops! I’ve corrected the post to say 5A rather than 1A, as best guess for the A6 tint. A dumb mistake so I appreciate your diplomacy.

I agree. I have both and your first picture has a similar greenish tint to my 3D. My 5A is yellowish like your second picture.

My S1 with 3D tint looks more like your first pic. A little warmer than I like, more like 4500K than the 5000K I was expecting. I’ll live with mine. Still, nothing comes close to the beautiful BLF348. That tint is simply gorgeous.

I received my S1 (3D tint) yesterday and I am facing issues with it also. All modes don’t produce much output (A cheap harbor freight flashlight produces more light). Was this something you were experiencing @acolyte? There is also some rust on the tailcap so I did a direct short from the negative terminal of the battery to the body but the output did not improve at all. I contacted Banggood yesterday and I am waiting for a response. How long was your process with them?

Here is a video of the light vs my Nitecore HC30:

No, that’s far worse than the one I received. Mine seemed very nicely built but had a defective driver that produced the same output for modes 1 through 3, broke some of the hidden modes and made it impossible to get into config mode. It came with the additional short tube but possibly fewer O-rings than expected; reviews seem to vary on that point.

I uploaded a short video to help BG understand the issues and it took a couple of days for them to agree to send me a new head and a couple of weeks for it to reach me. It was sent tracked.

I reported the problems with the replacement head to BG yesterday but have not yet received a response.

Based on the various helpful replies I’ve received here I’m holding out for an S1 3D head with working driver and a tolerably clean reflector.

The good news is that it’s a great light, when it works properly.

It’s a good light with a mediocre host. Moving the parts to a Convoy S2 or S2+ host makes it greater.

Just my opinion of course.

I’m woefully short of other flashlights with which to compare. A sample of one is not valid so how about half an A6? Comparing the A6 and S1 heads the threads seem better cut (and much cleaner) on the S1. Do you have an S1?

BG have requested more photos, which is probably my fault for not making it 100% clear to them that those I already submitted were taken with same battery, at same charge level and same mode selected on the flashlight. However, they seem ready to send yet another head, so I’m optimistic. I’m in Sweden at the moment and the nights are rather short; by the time I get a fully working and correct S1 it may be dark enough to appreciate it.

A few more photos, taken for BG, to illustrate the shortcomings of the A6 head I was sent:

I must fix the time on that camera…

BG is sending a new head, with the correct 3D tint and a clean reflector. I’ve asked them to make sure it is an Astrolux S1 head and not the A6 version. Judging by the last two shipments it will take about 16 days to reach me.

Fingers crossed, again :wink:

…or maybe longer. BG says the 3D head is out of stock but might be available next week. This seems odd as the BG site lists the 3D version of the Astrolux S1 as being in stock. But what do I know.

Patience.