Jaxman Z1 Discussion

I’ve tried sanding pill surfaces with the method you mention. I has not worked out well for me at all. The the bit does not sand near the center while sanding heavily out toward the edge. Thus, I ended up worse off than I started. Let me know if it works for you or how you end up getting it lapped flat. There must be an effective method out there some where?

Re-flow solder the copper mcpcb to the brass pill. Then any differences are taken up by metal, not thermal compound. I use a stainless plate on top of a conduction stove-top element. Picked up the 6” diameter 1/8” thick piece of 314SS from the welding shop, they’d cut it out of something they were working on, it was a scrap, free as I recall.

I usually re-flow the emitter to the mcpcb simultaneously to re-flowing the mcpcb to the pill. :wink:

I would like to put a mt-g2 in mine what size driver do I need and which one would you recommend?

There are some nice options, some easier/more available than others. A Zener modified FET driver will give the most output, running 2 cells and supplying in the 12A neighborhood. Led4Power’s LD-2 can also be configured to run the 6V emitter with 2 cells and the output would be regulated, your choice from 6A to 12A. Richard probably has several options at his disposal if you’re able to order from him and he could help you figure out the best level to run it at. (the sweet spot is in the 7A range, up to about 9A as a sensible max, over 9A is generating heat faster than output)

Dale. The beamshot of that SBT-70 just blows me away.
A real stage spotlight.
I keep expecting the singing frog with the top hat and cane from the Warner brother cartoon to jump into frame.
….hello my baby, hello my darling, hello my ragtime gal……….

Ask Hoop how he gets his copper pill inside surfaces flat. You can see slight variation in the mirror surface but can’t feel any irregularity nor detect any unevenness with a small straightedge.

Thanks for the help, I would prefer to deal with Richard. I was looking at his site and would this work? 22mm fet driver, (no turbo timer), fet firmware (standard no memory), 2s+ cell (zener mod clicky –6lvp)

This is exactly what I do, and what I did in my Z1 after I got my pill smoothed out, but I don’t even bother with the stainless steel plate. I just put my “stack” directly on the glass top of our kitchen stove and turn it on high. When the solder flows I made any final adjustment that’s needed and give my emitter a quick tap to remove excess solder, then just carefully slide it off the eye and onto a cool area of the stovetop, and walk away for 10 minutes or so.

The user interface of the Jaxman Z1 looks very similar to the Convoy UI with the 2 mode groups and the blink on low to switch, except Jaxman starts on high and decreases to low. Does it also have Convoy’s “on time memory” where you need to stay on a mode for at least 2 seconds for the mode to be memorized? Also, if the light is on for a while, and you half press, does the mode NOT change until you make a second half press, just like Convoy’s UI?

Does anyone know how this particular flashlight would respond to being mounted on a .308 with a high velocity round? One of those rounds that disrupts the dust in about a 40sq.ft. area. Is there a mount for it? I would want to put a 4 inch hood out the front of the flashlight so it would be very difficult detect.
Also, DBCustom, can you give us another beam shot of maybe 200 yards, high resolution to simulate a scope to see how well it illuminated the area?

I’m very impressed by this unit. Especially DBCustoms version.

PPDB, huge thank you for the heads up man. You just saved me from possibly ruining my pills! Maybe a sander like bellow would be better and concentrate on the center of the pill and go very slow.

I’d watch out with that sanding drum. There’s no way you’re going to get an even level surface with it. It eats up metal fast, and you will just end up with uneven depressions. You will have no real control.

I’ve smoothed out pills before using dremel type grinding stones, but I don’t use it with the rotary tool. I place it flat and sand the surface in a circular motion holding it with my fingers.

I might get the XHP50 one and put 2 26350’s in it, the extension has held me back until now

Westin, this is still at 97 yds but at 4x (112mm on my G1X)

A de-domed XP-L V6 or XM-L2 U4 0D would have a much higher concentration of light with considerably more lumens. They’d have a square hot spot though.

This isn’t an ideal light for mount purposes as it uses the 26650 cell, too fat for the majority of scope mounts. A zoomie like this would work well though for very little side emission, perhaps you should talk to MEM about a Lucky Sun D80 modified to the hilt with his aspheric system?

Will do, thanks DB.

With the stock driver only pulling around 2.5 Amperes at Turbo it’s no problem to run it on 2x26350!

I’m doing this and it works. But I’m not impressed with the output of the stock Z1 XHP50, regardless of batteries! (a pair of high drain 26650 read the same 2.5A at the tailcap)

I got a spare pill for the Z1 and don’t know yet what I will come up with. But the stock driver has to go anyway! I’m not sure if I should go for zener fet or LD-2…

Ah man, that’s why I really wanted the Cometa to work, so disappointing

Nice my XML2 NW one is shipped just now.
$37,05 so $7 less then a host would cost me.
A good XML2 is not a bad thing to have if the Jaxman gets modded this winter I’ll swap it with a LB on ALU star in one of my budget lights.
Nice I am happy!

Oh link
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=2171

Hi,

i think that is too much heat for the Standard LD2. I had similar things with a red SST-90 where the driver overheated due to the low Vf and had some weird issues. The LD2-M2 should be used in these cases.

Regards

Kenjii