WolfA, can you do a resistor mod and bump that current? The XHP-50 runs really well at twice that current draw, even 3.5-4A would be a significant improvement. If you do get secondary pills, an FET driver to an XM-L2 de-domed is probably about the maximum output as far as spot intensity goes. A Zener modded FET to an MT-G2 should also be pretty rewarding, but in a different way entirely.
Thanks Kenjii, I had it snugged up against a silicone block but I guess that wasn’t enough. I think I have some of the original extension boards, might give it a go to move that FET out and see how it acts.
Hi Dale,
Your suggestions are very welcome and meet my plans of having 3 different pills! My problem is I’m not sure which resistor I should bridge. I identified 2 possible candidates sitting side by side one R250 the other R260, not connected at the life side, but don’t really know!
I’ll take a picture as soon there is time…. Really busy the next three days!
I make my pills on a CNC milling machining center. A sharp endmill finishes the pocket with a light finishing pass. This of course leaves visible tooling “marks” but they are not able to be felt with a fingernail. It’s very flat.
Looks to me like the Z1 could use some copper lovin?
Please don’t confuse me with whoever it is you’re arguing with.
I mentioned the fingernail as a way of checking what we think we see, by touching the surface to determine whether there’s any roughness that can be felt.
Yeah I don’t get why people have trouble with it, the first link to the Jax works also on my phone but the main link kicks me to a mobile site that has no functionality.
On PC all work
“Price of everything, value of nothing ?”
I don’t get this question, what do you mean?
Got an email that it is send out.
And of course tell all about it when it comes
Big surprise because when I ordered it they said clearly out of stock.
For now I got
A good price
Fast email of shipment
So all aspects I could encounter are very good.
So we’ll see how the rest goes
Hoop nailed it, the Z1 benefits from a nice copper pill. So Hoop, when will they be ready?
It seemed to me that if I was doing this, there was no need to piggyback the 17mm driver onto the original Jaxman board. So I made the pill to fit the driver. Now even the weaker MNKE cell pulls 15.55, almost scared to test an Efest.
I’m certainly no pro machinist, and some time off makes me even rustier. But all in all it worked out pretty well. Had to use what was available so a good bit of time was spent reducing an oversize bar of Tellurium Cu, and then I had issues fitting the new brass retaining ring into the small pocket, probably a lack of the proper tools, but I persevered and it worked out pretty well.
Oh man you just made that?
it is a shame the underscore makes thngs italic since this screams for a smiley that cannot be shown O
let me google it
YES this is what I want to show or
It will be interesting to know what thermal improvement results.
TBH, all my engineering knowledge tells me that a decent aluminium alloy pill should also outperform anything made of brass.
Whereas Al vs Cu is a trickier one. Thermal conduction, thermal mass, weight, cost, ease of machining, and doubtless other factors, all need consideration and trad-off.
I suppose, the bottom line, is the price and availability, compared with $5 for the standard brass pill, and what true benefits will be gained, and whether it will make any practical difference, except in extreme modifications.
How much would you estimate that your copper pill should cost, as a commercial proposition ?
Sharpie, the cost is probably 3-4 times higher, Hoop can probably make the pills for around $15-18. In normal scenario’s this is probably unwarranted, but this Luminus SBT-70 is not efficient and burns a LOT of current as heat, so it’s necessary here to go the extra mile.
18.75A seems to be about the peak here on an Efest 4200mAh cell. At the 43 second step down point with this particular driver, it’s just about burning my hand, copper or no copper.
We have people here that take the shelf to a mirror finish. I personally don’t like to as it prohibits the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive from adhering to the slick surface and can allow the mcpcb to shift once heated. It is certainly easier to remove a glued mcpcb from a mirror polished shelf.
So I tend to focus more on how flat it is and not worry much about some slight surface imperfections. I REALLY don’t like a dimple directly under the emitter from a pre-drill situation being plunged too deeply.