Jaxman Z1 Discussion

Hi,

I used an 17-20mm Adapter for the LD-1 driver instead of piggypack it which fits perfect in my Z1.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_72&product_id=672

But a little extra weight with copper is welcome :wink:

Regards

Kenjii

I have a question about tooling marks, or even slight minute tooling ridges that one could actually feel with a fingernail in the MCPCB pocket of the pill. ( I am not talking about super grossly rough tooling marks mind you ).

If it they were flat, would the slightly rough tooling ridges along with a proper amount of Arctic Silver 5 Premium not give better heat transfer from the MCPBC to the pill than if it were smooth.

My though is the slight tooling ridges would indeed give more surface area for the heat to be transferred from the MCPCB to the pill, by way of the Arctic Silver 5 Premium of course. That is my theory anyway, same as cooling fins on the outside of the light dissipates much more heat than a smooth surface with no fins.

Yeah, the super smooth and polished pockets on the pills look very nice indeed… I agree with that. But, they also have less surface area to transfer the heat to than a pocket with slight tooling ridges.

Just my thoughts…….

No
Article silver is purely for filling tiny gaps.
The smoother the better since less paste is needed.

Hi, I did the resistor mod on the stock Z1 XHP50! As I only had a R100 at hand this was added to the original R150, giving a total of 0.06 Ohm instead of 0.15 Ohm on high.

Tailcap readings BEFORE:
L:0.05A M:0.5A H:2.5A

Tailcap readings AFTER:
L:0.05A M: 0.5A H:5A

I shaved the XHP50 at the same time so I can only say it got a significantly brighter projection :slight_smile:

Thermal paste is nowhere near as effective as a good metal to metal contact.
There are some adhesion losses with a mirror finish, but this usually doesn’t mean a lot to us inside a flashlight. For a light like the Z1 there is a cover plate that holds the emitter/mcpcb down so it’s not likely to move even if dropped or hard use EDC.

The key to a paste at optimum efficiency is filling microscopic differences, eliminating air. I tend to use the microprocessor instructions and apply a small ball of paste in the center, then lay the mcpcb on top and press it so that the paste spreads out. The trick here is to use enough without using too much, but even if too much is applied a good bit of pressure can push it out and the excess removed. Too little and there are air gaps around the periphery of the mcpcb.

Some small tooling ridges from a fast feed aren’t particularly of issue, as long as the surface is flat and true… true being important so the emitter faces the optic as perfectly as possible. What has to be weighed is the ability to reduce these marks while maintaining a flat true surface, it’s all too easy to mess up the paradigm while trying to improve surface contact, trading one issue for a more serious flaw.

Maybe maybe not. Tiny gaps are what I am referring to.

Does this stuff, Arctic Silver 5 Premium; actually transfer heat or not? I think it does… but how good does it? That I do not know yet, but I shall find out by calling them right now. :+1:

EDIT: / Just called them they are closed for facility maintenance this week reopen 11 July 2016.

The Liquid Pro made with Gallium is a metal that’s liquid at room temp and hardens or solidifies at higher temps, might go that route if you have copper to brass, it’ll eat aluminum though.

DB, does it re liquefy after the first “heat” cycle? If so, will it stay in place or be so liquid that it would migrate to unwanted places?

EDIT: Whoa, several post just showed up before my last two………. :person_facepalming: … I’ll read them now.

Yes it does transfer heat thats what it is for :wink:

Keep in mind a high end computer CPU running at 125/150W having a much lager area then a led star needs no more thermal grease about the size of s small grain of rice.
The Thorfire S50 I took the LED star out to send it to Maukka for some test, the amount of grease was perfect.
Lots of flashlights have way too much, it feels comforting to see dabs of the stuff.
When a star is pulled just some small ridges of paste should be there, when it is a full covring disc, too much.

The paste is only necessary to fill out the imperfections.

Anything more than that is counter-productive.

The thermal conductivity of Arctic Silver V, which is well regarded, is claimed to be 8.7 W/(m·K).

By comparison, brass is 111, aluminium 204, copper 386, silver 407 (higher number = better).

63/37 SnPb solder, 50

Unless the surface finish is so good that e.g. the parts can be “wrung” together like gauging blocks, some sort of interface compound is probably necessary. Any microscopic air-gap will be worse than, I suggest, than even the poorest thermal compounds.

But soldering the parts together does seem to be, at least theoretically, a very good method indeed.

Wait WHAT ?!
Please tell me more.
Here I am thinking solid liquid gas plasma is the order and based on temp
You rock my world here
Off to go googling this mighty interesting phenomena, thanks Dale!

I think you may find that the gallium stuff is something like Galinstan alloy, molten at room temperature.

You spread it on, then once you heat it beyond about 80 C it may fuse with the heatsink materials, re-alloy, lose it’s low melting point properties, and set into a permanent bond.

With some rather reactive properties. Think of it as a very low melting point solder paste.

There are other metal alloys with interesting low melting points that might also be of use, e.g. Woods metal, and Rose’s metal.

Rose’s metal seems to have better potential, melts at about 100 C, and doesn’t contain anything particularly toxic. Certainly no Gallium, or Cadmium.

Just finished XHP35 using FX35. Used 10mm sinkpad and D4 5000K. So far Nice! Single cell Thorfire 5000ma protected. It went together very well and right at focus. I stripped the XHP70 and driver for this one. No problems with pill. I did lightly sand again minor wobble at center. Used a round centering ring which also acts as an insulator for the 10mm Tpad. Measurements later and seriously…pics. I now add the insulator disk (milk jug) to the spring side of any 26650s as you know why. I like this Z1 series so much days ago I did order another in XHP50. Love the no drama part. After dark will change cells to BASEN 4K and after that beef the driver up a notch. Signed: newguy learning

:+1: …. Sounds great!

The Liquid Pro stuff seems to harden and stick after use, difficult to clean up completely if remodding the light in my experience. I’ve used it with some Sinner Cu EDC lights…everything there is copper so no issues.

Edit: It’s made by Cool Labratory, Liquid Pro, made in Germany.

Thanks for the info DB…… :+1:

Yeah that gallium is a strange metal….

Great input!
Thanks.

Very nice. Thanks for the tip about the FX35 Kaidomain driver, single cell.

Where did you get the emitter ?

Beginning to assemble my parts list…

I had two both from mtn so used what I had. The other is 20mm and using with 4 tube and heatsink added. Will switch to two tube when 26350s arrive. I had a supply of the spring inserts between batts and use them.

OK, now this makes sense to me. This is how I have been doing it, without knowing if it was the proper way or not. But if it is good enough for you DB…. it is good enough for me. :+1: … :wink:

My goal has been to be able to visually see a small bit of the thermal paste come out from under the edges of the MCPBC when I pressed it down. If there was ever an over abundance of paste I cleaned it off all the way around the MCPBC and pressed again till no more came out. Then cleaned off any excess and called it good.

I’ll just continue down this path as it seems to be working well for me.

Thank you for the info DB, makes me feel like I was doing something right. :slight_smile:

I know a couple of factory lights I have just did not seem to be getting very warm / hot on Turbo mode. So I charged up the batteries and ran them on Turbo for a specified amount of time. At the end of that time I measured temperature in three places on the lights.

I then took them apart and checked to see how much thermal paste was under the MCPCB on both. On both of them the MCPCB was only about half covered with paste.

I reapplied thermal paste as described above to both lights and retested the exact same way. The temperatures measured in the exact same places on each light were all higher…. which told me the internal heat was being transferred better.

I know that is not very “scientific”, but does that sound like a correct assumption???