I used some JB weld to make a non solid pill a little more solid. I put a brand new MT-G2 on 20mm Noctigon over it with some oil as releasing agent under, but the releasing agent didn’t do anything because the JB-weld crept through the wire holes of the MCPCB and basically welded it in. Some of it stuck to the dome of the LED so I gave slicing the dome off a try, but I only ended up ripping the whole dome off… The pill was to messy to keep so it went in the bin together with the MT-G2 
Sounds like a “great” day Mike .
My soldering station shorted out when I was changing the tip, but I did save the receipt so I returned it to the local shop were I brought it and got a new one for free :+1:
Broke my trusty Ti3 because I put a 10440 in it and left it on moonlight all night long. I thought I had turned it off but instead it was on moonlight. Now none of the other modes work either. Thinking about replacing it with a K18.
I should take you under private arrest for such a crime. Nobody breaks my favorite light and gets away with it! :rage:
jk. What about replacing it with an Astrolux A01?
First try shaving an old XM-L (to keep its 1A tint)
I have used two 0.9mm drills as guide, the wires seemed ok, but i have cut some phosphor on one corner, i suppose pressure have bended the razor blade.
Result: no working LED
I think i will stay with gas dedoming method.
I just rested my solder on a piece of plastic on a headlamp i was working on. Great!
Fiber optics
- Get some fiber optics from your local hobby shop.
- Drill 3 holes in the side of the body tube of your light in a neat row near your driver the same width as the fiber optic.
- Cut 3 pieces of fiber optic, one for each LED.
- Glue one end of a fiber optic to the top of one of the small LEDs with Norland 61.
- Glue the other end into the hole in your body tube.
- Repeat for all 3 LEDs. The fiber optics will channel the light to the holes in the body tube. From the outside of the light it should look like the LEDs are mounted on the body rather than the driver.
OPTIONAL: Having the fiber optics glued to both the battery tube and the driver would make it impossible to easily remove the driver. Instead maybe press-fit the fiber optics into the holes in the body tube. Add a transparent window above or below the holes to prevent the optics from accidentally being pushed out.
Window - Instead of fiber optics maybe just add a small window to the light near the driver. Many lights use this method.
- Drill a hole in the body tube near the driver.
- Glue a lens over the hole. If you don’t want to see inside, use a frosted lens.
I just burned a hole in my computer chair while fine tuning the thermal control for my astrolux S1. A bit ironic, isn’t it? I put down the light head first and the synthetic fabric began smelling funny within 10 seconds. Removed the light and there was a nice round hole to the foam. I didn’t know that stuff melted so easily.
Broke a nanjg 105d driver trying to swap the MCU. I don’t actually know if it’s totally gone, but I lost 2 solder pads in the process. Plus I might have damaged the driver retaining ring on my c8 to the point I might never be able to unscrew it again without causing some damage to the host
I broke a glass vase today, dropped from a high shelf. The momentum was strong, sending tiny sharp pieces all over the place, making the floor a death trap. It would have been a special kind of hell to clean up the mess without missing a tiny piece.
But I had my light, X45 is my savior! A sixteen thousand lumen of salvation!
The floor was instantly filled with hundred thousands of twinkling little diamonds, and I collected every single one of them without a hassle.
Nice use of your light! Almost makes me want to start breaking some glass 
I was being clumsy AF yesterday for no good reason. I dropped batteries a whole bunch of times and ended up denting a couple. Fortunately they were from my oldest set of Eneloops.
Broke the end off a 7135 chip on a 5-chip custom 105d driver, apparently by cranking down too hard on a driver retaining ring.
I suspect it was already cracked as I was tightening the retainer trying to restore proper behavior, it had quit working reliably.
Oops.
My Ice Maker broke itself today. Luckily I took out P.C. Richards’ 10 year warranty. Totally worth the $300 I spent. My warranty runs out in May of 2022.
Broke a leg from a AMC7135 in my attempt to bend and add to a driver, plus cracked a glass while assembling my S2+ triple. I guess I’m supposed to remove the glass when using the triple tir optics
My air conditioner broke today
And it’s 40 C today…
Broke my smartphone, a Samsung Galaxy S3 Neo. Fell from my hand when I was fetching it off the hanging workpants during break time, when I was going to check my tracking codes (for a new Convoy S2 and a pair of Wii-Mote controllers)
But to be fair, I had already lost hope for it: the firmware didn’t update past Android Kit-Kat so I could hardly use the SD card storage, the outer host was all chipped paint, I couldn’t connect it to the PC as an external USB device (took forever to load, then failed), the screen had cracked under the protection, the silicone cover I put on it fell to desiccated pieces months ago, it sometimes crashed so hard it reset completely, and the battery was so worn, anything below 30% meant basically no charge at all. It was a trooper, but it’s been officially 3 years since I got it, and it was time to retire the old soldier ( v_v)7
Tonight, after I give my presentation for the final uni paper, I’m headed off to get a Motorola
I broke the power supply for my Raspberry Pi. :cry:
Today i have learned the hard way that you always have to be careful with a soldering iron!
While solder blobbing brand new (my first 26650’s) i accidently shorted one (which gave a nice spark) because i had the big part/edge of the iron too close to the edge of the cell, that made the wrap melt, all because i forgot the size, im used to 18650’s probably, which never gave problems.
Cell is ok, need to rewrap it.