The pill has a 19mm opening, my Noctigon MCPCB is 16 mm. I don’t have a way to accurately turn down a 20 mm MCPCB to 19 mm.
My plan is/was to use Arctic Alumina on the MPCPCB and tighten down the factory centering ring. My red light came with the centering ring appropriately sized for the XP-E led. My extra pills came with XML size centering rings that are way to big for XPE/XPG/Nichia 219 builds I planned.
I was hoping someone had a lead on factory parts b/c Gearbest and Fasttech do not have them.
I’d have to double check, but I’m pretty sure I used the Convoy XP-sized centering rings (for say a C8 or L2) when using an XP-L or XP-G in my B158 builds
You can get them from Mtn here, or directly from Simon (Convoy) on AliExpress
Hey everyone just got two b158’s, excellent quility! I want to get a new driver, a 17mm-mtn-ddm. Does the tail switch need to changed? I think it’s a forward clickie, it’s not like a x5 or x6 tail switch. If it doesn’t need to be changed how do you get into configuration setup i.e.: 16+ taps and mode changing. Thanks for your help!
For a forward clicky, you would get into configuration the same way, except you’d have to either hold the switch in, or fully click it in to see the config options.
If you have a spare reverse clicky tailswitch in the same size pcb, you could swap it in. I did so on mine, and while its not a perfect fit, it works.
I have a few B158B hosts on the way and will be installing my own drivers in them. Can anyone confirm the original driver size without the brass ring? I want to adjust the diameter and make new specific versions of my drivers for these hosts.
Aha… so originally these lights come with an adapter ring? I thought that ring was after market. I don’t know if my hosts are coming with the ring or not, but in any case I don’t want to use it if I don’t have to. So 18mm driver to avoid the ring? Do you know if it’s 18mm exactly? 17mm drivers need to be 17.5mm to fit tightly in some lights.
I ordered three extra pills they came with retaining rings. I took a dremal to the wire holes they were a little sharp. Iam waiting for drivers and Led’s from mountain electronics.
Thanks for the info all. My hosts have arrived with DHL, but I won’t be able to pick them up until I’m home again on Friday.
I won’t need the ring or need to solder. I just need to change the diameter of my drivers if they are too small. I like to press fit drivers rather than solder, makes replacing them in the future much easier.
I see a lot of people use this light with dedomed XP-G2, but does someone try to use this lamp and dedome a original LED ( U4 ) in it ?
If yes how it operate relative to original LED with dome ?
I’ve tried it that way, but didn’t leave it. The LED that comes in it (an XM-L2) tightens up and warms up nicely when dedomed. But ultimately, the XP-G2 has a smaller surface area, so it’s beam is even tighter (when also dedomed). I don’t have pictures of the B158 with the dedomed XM-L2, but these pics with a few UF-1504’s (and a B158) side-by-side should provide a nice comparison.
A side note… the original LED comes on an aluminum PCB. If you’re going to drive it harder (say, with a FET driver), you want a copper DTP board. But if you leave the original driver, the aluminum board is fine.