Brinyte B158 mod thread

I’d have to double check, but I’m pretty sure I used the Convoy XP-sized centering rings (for say a C8 or L2) when using an XP-L or XP-G in my B158 builds

You can get them from Mtn here, or directly from Simon (Convoy) on AliExpress

Thanks, the MTN electronics spacers worked great.

Great, glad it worked out for ya. Happy modding!

Hey everyone just got two b158’s, excellent quility! I want to get a new driver, a 17mm-mtn-ddm. Does the tail switch need to changed? I think it’s a forward clickie, it’s not like a x5 or x6 tail switch. If it doesn’t need to be changed how do you get into configuration setup i.e.: 16+ taps and mode changing. Thanks for your help!

For a forward clicky, you would get into configuration the same way, except you’d have to either hold the switch in, or fully click it in to see the config options.

If you have a spare reverse clicky tailswitch in the same size pcb, you could swap it in. I did so on mine, and while its not a perfect fit, it works.

I have a few B158B hosts on the way and will be installing my own drivers in them. Can anyone confirm the original driver size without the brass ring? I want to adjust the diameter and make new specific versions of my drivers for these hosts.

The original driver size in all the ones I had were 17mm in from memory an 18mm OD adaptor.

Aha… so originally these lights come with an adapter ring? I thought that ring was after market. I don’t know if my hosts are coming with the ring or not, but in any case I don’t want to use it if I don’t have to. So 18mm driver to avoid the ring? Do you know if it’s 18mm exactly? 17mm drivers need to be 17.5mm to fit tightly in some lights.

I reckon they used these and they are 18mm OD.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001999/1250000-copper-17mm-to-17mm-ring

I could check tomorrow if you like.

Driver size on stock brass pil is 17.9mm.

I ordered three extra pills they came with retaining rings. I took a dremal to the wire holes they were a little sharp. Iam waiting for drivers and Led’s from mountain electronics.

Mike C,

There is no need for retaining ring when it can be easily soldered to pill… Totally unnecessary part.

Well it is necessary in their design… :

Thanks for the info all. My hosts have arrived with DHL, but I won’t be able to pick them up until I’m home again on Friday.

I won’t need the ring or need to solder. I just need to change the diameter of my drivers if they are too small. I like to press fit drivers rather than solder, makes replacing them in the future much easier.

Please report when you’ll have time…

I got my hosts now… I made a dedicated thread instead of posting in this thread: Build/Mod: Zoomie with Brynite B158B host (wider flood mod)

Subscribed, some interesting ideas forming in my head… :smiling_imp:

I see a lot of people use this light with dedomed XP-G2, but does someone try to use this lamp and dedome a original LED ( U4 ) in it ?
If yes how it operate relative to original LED with dome ?

I’ve tried it that way, but didn’t leave it. The LED that comes in it (an XM-L2) tightens up and warms up nicely when dedomed. But ultimately, the XP-G2 has a smaller surface area, so it’s beam is even tighter (when also dedomed). I don’t have pictures of the B158 with the dedomed XM-L2, but these pics with a few UF-1504’s (and a B158) side-by-side should provide a nice comparison.

A side note… the original LED comes on an aluminum PCB. If you’re going to drive it harder (say, with a FET driver), you want a copper DTP board. But if you leave the original driver, the aluminum board is fine.

No, I just asking about dedome a led, nothing else I don’t want to experiment for now.
I have HI V3 and U4 version and I like more HI V3 because beam is narrowed and it can reach more distance.

Hmm it is strange, so if I understand well you only dedome a led and do nothing more, and lamp warms up more than before you dedome it ?

Yes, dedoming alters the tint.