Yes, slightly thicker to accommodate thicker pants, smoother transition around where it mounts to the light, and a slightly longer and shallower angle on the entrance ramp.
As for how to smooth the transition I’m also not sure, I agree with J-Dub the Manker ramp is not great but it is better than nothing and if that ramp is longer it could more easily be tweaked just slightly so there is no way even thin fabric will get caught under the ramp like can happen on the Manker ones. I actually made a plastic ramp for my convoy ones with marginal success (3D printer is not quite that good) and it fell out at some point anyway.
The most important change to me though is the entrance ramp that J-Dub circled in his second pic. I wish that ramp on the end was a much shallower angle and in turn was longer to maintain the same intake thickness. This helps a lot on more flexible fabrics that want to just crumple instead of slide under the clip. This is something I like about the Manker design.
I’ve always found mine to be too flexible.
I really like the relative stiffness of Olight clips and would love to buy some for a lower price from Simon…
The overall geometry of actual Convoy slip is good to me, maybe a little ramp before the snag could be more practical but *thicker *material is, IMHO, what would make it perfect
I want to point out that manker isn’t the one who designed that clip y’all are talking about. They just messed it up. If it’s done right it’s really good. The manker clips are good if their tweaked a little bit. A clip like the original A6 built with thicker titanium (.045” has perfect stiffness and spring back) and bent correctly, I think would satisfy most people.
If you’re worried about scratching the anodizing when unscrewing the battery tube,
slip a bit of paper under the contact point before you start turning the tailcap.
No problem.
(write your name and address and “REWARD FOR RETURN” on the piece of paper, and slip it into the battery tube while you have it open — if someone finds your flashlight, they might get in touch)
I find if you just pinch the back of the clip to the endcap while unscrewing you can lift the tip up enough to not rub on the body.
I actually like a relatively light clip tension but I think most people like them stiff. As long as there is a way to bend the clip in one way or another to adjust it thicker metal wouldn’t be a bad thing.
As to that little right angle that interferes when slipping the clip over the edge of a pocket, you should compare the OrcaTorch T11, which has a smooth transition there that avoids the problem completely:
Also how about bringing the end of the entrance ramp up a bit. Up to the level of the rest of the clip.
And adding a small straight section at the tip. Say 3mm. I can do a drawing.
Thanks hank. That’s about what I had in my head for that little ramp area which is now a snag point on the Convoy clip. That picture helps. I think that’s essentially what Halo was getting at too. My concern with that type of design is the thinner band we have to work with as the attachment point. You need to add a little rounded relief into the metal at the “T”. You can see right where they did that with the Orca clip and it looks spot on but the Orca clip looks like it has around 4-5mm to work with where we have 2.5mm. That doesn’t leave enough metal for us to add that necessary “U” notch in the metal at the proper point that eliminates or drastically reduces the stress-fracture point. Another thing I considerred is just widening the clip groove in the S2+ and eventually the rest of the S series so that we can design a truly proper clip. That however doesn’t do anything for all of the lights that we already have. I appreciate all the input everyone has given here. More thinking to do…
Just found this thread and I have a question. Will this clip fit any of the SolarForce hosts sold by MTN Elec.? I’ve been looking for a good deep carry clip for my L2T/P lights. Thanks.
I agree, that is a very nice design, and unlike any ramps or anything it will be super close to the light body so even thin fabrics can’t get caught under the ramp. I wonder if the triangular areas connected to the ramp could be tilted outward slightly. This I think would make the ramp a lower angle but more importantly it would make the bends in the metal there a larger angle so it can be formed easier.
All the angles can be adjusted. If I had some scrap sheet metal I would do an example of how you’re suggesting. Just easier to adjust and hold angles even on both sides with metal. Anyone have a spare can of soda, pop, beer?
Yep, very nice design from Halo. I hope this gets worked out.
Anyone have access to one of those super sheet metal cutters that use water jets or lasers?
Aside: I just tried to open out the 180-degree bend in one of my Convoy clips.
It eventually snapped right off, in the middle of the 180-degree bend.
Walking near vehicles… I’m always paranoid about the tip of a pocket clip scratching the paint when I’m walking past something. Just something to keep in mind.
Anneal it first to reduce the brittleness. Take a blow torch to the bend. Heat till glowing hot. You could also try a torch lighter if you don’t have anything larger.
If you find that it doesn’t hold as tight onto a pocket as before you can re-harden it. Bending (at any part that was red hot) can work harden it. You’ll feel it getting harder to bend. Or you could try tempering it in your oven at 148-205°C (298-401°F).
The width of the clip-on band is so narrow.
