What Legoes with What?

Astrolux SC/Ultrafire C3 SS (1st version, 93mm).

LOL, and so it does, not very useful perhaps, but a great find! :smiley:

Skilhunt DS16 legos with Manker E14 / Astrolight S41. The threads where the head and body tube match and are interchangeable.

Note however that the skilhunt is an e-switch light and lacks a tailcap switch, so the usefulness of legoing with the astrolight except for an advanced modder, is pretty much nil.

On the other hand, if you have the astrolight you can get 18650 support using the Manker 18650 tube. Note however that the Manker’s o-ring won’t be covered.

Ordered both the SS and AL versions of the Ultrafire C3 from DX to see if they both fit the x5.

Cross-reference for mention of various Convoy lights:

Ordered done flashlights from DX on 7/11, the shipment was broken up into 3 separate packages and the first of them arrive on Friday 7/22 a new record for them. Jolly good show! In this package were a couple cheap AA lights. A Sipik SK68 and an Ultrafire C3. I was particularly interested in the C3 as I had heard a version of it would Lego with my copper X5 and this I can happily confirm. Also of interest is that those cheap no name cree AA lights from eBay also Lego with the SK 68, the tail caps are interchangeable and the tubes thread together so you can easily make an xhp50 zoomie.

Yup fits… need to add a wire ring behind the driver retainer for it to make contact.

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That’s the SS version, right? I’ve one of those in the order as well. Is that a recent purchase? Mine works without a wire.

It is the SS, bought about a year ago. Fits well and looks pretty good. It is the 93mm version.

I would not fire it up with the stock C3 switch, that light will draw way to much current for that switch!

My SS C3 from DX came yesterday and it does indeed fit the copper X5 very well and works just fine. Although the longer threading of the X5 tube does not go all the way into the head or tail of the C3.

Hey Matt, the switch in the SS C3 is a type of Omten 1288 with a different ground connection. I suspect that given the extra number of mechanical contacts in the arrangement that higher currents will cause multiple voltage drops but the switch itself should be fine. Ultrafire seems to be fond of placing the switch in a pill and this one is much better made than the 501/502 versions and has a threaded cap on the button side. On mine this was loose causing erratic behavior but once tightened it works just fine. I did also change the button cover from the ill fitting, hard to access, concave cover to a standard convex one. Neither would tail stand but at least it’s convenient to operate now. A 1 mm oring inserted before the button cover could fix that but only if the tube threads were likewise shortened or the tail cap would not fully screw on.

Rufusbduck, glad you pointed that out! I should have referred to the tailcap. I did melt one of them with a FET driver and lithium ion batteries… I did restore it to service and it still lives. I like the little C3 SS.

Fwiw, I think it might be possible to change the switch to a more standard switch on pcb arrangement but it would probably also require shortening of the tube threads to gain space for the pcb and cannibalizing the aluminum module for a retaining ring. Probably not worth it in an SS host with limited heat capacity but if you’re modding it to switch melting levels you might consider it.

I blamed the failure on high resistance points around the switch, not the switch proper.

It would probably be much easier to alter the aluminum C3 and better able to disperse the heat as well. This ones a good candidate for one of Harleyquin’s Oshpark boost boards as stock it has the annoying five modes with next mode and no memory.

As reported here, with a picture: BLF Newb 1st purchase check in please - #11 by mapache

pilotdog68 wrote:
… the X2R [legoes] with an S2+ 18350 tube …

xref to discussion of the Ultrafire uf10 zoomable 16340

Muto observes:

Just an update,

the blue 18350 S2+ tube I have from Banggood fits both my blue S2+ and the X2R perfectly, but the black S2+ tube I just got from Simon directly only works in the S2+, not the X2R. It doesn’t thread in all the way. Maybe I should try a black one from banggood? Or the astrolux version?

edit: BG actually has one that says it’s for eagle eyes, maybe that’s my best bet. Has anyone confirmed that tube fits other genuine EE lights?

I was clearing some demolished tripods (the brand is Velbon) at work (=school, adolescents can and will break anything), and it struck me that this extension tube for the tripod looked familiar. So I took one home and behold: it fits the BLF A6 like a glove. It needs some work (clearing ano to make electric contacts, extending the tail spring and driver spring a bit) but then it fits 5x 18650’s. It just needs a 20V led and driver now Or 40V of course if I add another extension :smiley:

The result ( :partying_face: )demonstrated by my son (nothing modded yet, just to show how it fits):