Tear Down (and upcoming mod) - Boruit RJ-02 Headlight (Pic Heavy)

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ImA4Wheelr
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Tear Down (and upcoming mod) - Boruit RJ-02 Headlight (Pic Heavy)

NOTE:  The mod will be documented in Post 6 below.

There seems to be no tear down info on this light.  No doubt do to the unmovable cap that is at the switch-end of the light.  I was certain it had thread lock.  So I kept trying progressively higher levels of heat while using pieces of leather in a vice and in plier jaws.  I tried to be gentle, but once the heat was getting high enough to damage the components inside, I gave up on gentle.  Turned out the "tailcap" has no threads at all and is pressed on.  There appears to be no glue or epoxy.  So likely, the cap can be removed by trying to knock it straight off with wooden dowels and a hammer.

Inside with front plastic holder removed.  Other than the PCB's, optic and o-rings, everything else is aluminum. 

Cap that is used to change the cell.  Appears to use a repurposed driver PCB.  Some cleaning and a by-pass wire should reduce some unnecessary resistance.

Front without bezel and optic.   That is not the stock emitter.



Pressed on cap without switch and USB covers.  The metal is pretty torn up from several turns before I realized there were no threads.

Front and back of emitter MCPCB.  Not much of a thermal path to the host considering the optic presses the MCPCB back.  Not really a problem stock as the High mode is only 1.5amps. 

Back of PCB for switch/usb port.

Front of PCB for switch/usb port.  The chip labelled "57b1" is a li-ion charging IC TP4507.  It is supposed to be operate like the 8-pin TP4506 common in many of our chargers, but is in a SOT23-6 package and limited to 500mA maximum charging current.  This is great news and a very nice and unexpected feature in a sub $10 light.

Backlit

Some side-lit pics to reveal traces on the front of the emitter MCPCB.  The dark 5mm thing may be an IR emitter.  It leaked red dye from underneath when cleaned with alcohol.  The XP-L was installed by me.  The stock emitter appears to be a Chinese mystery emitter that has about half the output of a decent XP-L.  The stock emitter did have a nice neutral tint and a floodier beam profile as it was much larger.

Back of emitter MCPCB.  The pads that appear to for an LED emitter (Left edge of second picture), are emitter pads.  they are wired parallel to the front pads.  Folks that mod drivers will notice the fried resistors in the second picture. I did that being careless.  They are parallel current reducing  resistors labels "1R0".  So there is 1/2 an ohm of resistance on the positive side of the LED.  Haven't trying to study the circuit any yet.  The 3-pin chip labelled "2306YR 4t" appears to be a FET with it's Drain is connected to Negative LED pad..  There is a dot under the "2".  The 1K ohm and 10K ohm resisters might be PWM series and pull-down resistor set.  Haven't studied the circuit yet.

Some pics to help identify components.  Couldn't make out any markings on the 8-pin chip that appears to be an MCU.  The diode is marked "S4".   The ? chip is marked ".J3Y".

Li-ion charger chip.  The switch was melted when the "tailcap" finally started to turn and made contact with it.

 Will add some info on the threaded cap soon.

 

Conclusion:

Really like this headlamp.  Other than swapping in XP footprint emitters, it's not very mod friendly.  It is a bit hard to land on the lowest setting as the ramping flies through the low end fast.  Also with the IR switching mode could use memorized level instead of just the highest level.

 

Modification I would like to make:

Got a couple mod ideas.  Definitely want to go with an XM-L2 for more flood.  The traces around the emitter pads are big enough to clearance for an XM footprint.  Will also have to round off the corners of the emitter to fit the optic.  Should be easy enough. Also, want to increase the current moderately.  Just need to change the current resistors.  Would like to improve thermal patch to host.  Got an idea that will help, but won't be good enough to make high current mods a viable option.

 

". . . You realize that wasn't really a loss for me in Africa — it was a gain that I didn't appreciate."

- George Foreman 2017

Edited by: ImA4Wheelr on 08/08/2016 - 15:11
MG
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Thanks for the pics. Always nice to see what’s inside.

ImA4Wheelr
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You’re very welcome MG. I have a ton more close ups if anyone needs something specific. Otherwise, I think I will stop with what I have posted above.

". . . You realize that wasn't really a loss for me in Africa — it was a gain that I didn't appreciate."

- George Foreman 2017

red72vw
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Thanks Wheelr.

Been curious about it coming apart but didn’t want to render my only decent headlamp useless.
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Looking with interest. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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ImA4Wheelr
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Thanks guys. Put in a little more tear down info in the OP. Not sure if anyone noticed, but this light has a real li-ion charge controller. Pretty awesome for a sub $10 headlamp.

Haven't had much time to mod, but did do some work yesterday. Will try to finish some night this week.

Converted emitter pad from XP footprint to XM footprint by cutting out some of the inner "+" and "-" pads and then scrapping off the solder resist where the XM-L2 pad will sit.  Also, scrapped off the resist from the thermal pad trace that extends out from under the emitter.  I will solder copper sheet to it to better move heat to the headlamp body. I know, the work a bit sloppy, but it doesn't matter for this light.  I won't be pushing this headlamp beyond 2 to 3 amps.

I purposely moved the pads over towards the IR sensor because they were not centered stock (see below).

I forgot to round off the corners of the emitter so that the emitter would fit in the optic.  So put some tape down to protect the MCPCB and filed the corners down.

After filing off the corners of the emitter, Kapton tape was added so that the copper sheeting to be added for heat sinking would not short on anything.

Then copper sheet was reflowed to the MCPCB.  I just lapped the sheeting flat, but didn't sand down until all the depressions were good.  Should be adequate for the intended max current.

A straight by pass of the current limiting resisters increased current to 5.x amps.  Something started smoking within a few seconds.  So I disconnected  before getting a solid reading.  I think the smoke was dirt on the emitter because there were black spots (that wiped off) on the dome after words.  Gotta put some resistors back in there.  Also added a spring by-pass to reduce resistance for longer run times.

Mods remaining:

  • Remove some material from the plastic battery tube insert to accommodate the increased thickness of the MCPCB.
  • Resistance mod the screw on tailcap.

 

 

". . . You realize that wasn't really a loss for me in Africa — it was a gain that I didn't appreciate."

- George Foreman 2017

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This is an orsm mod . Hope it all ends well. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Nice work! I have the same light. I only want to change the led to XP-L

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Great job waiting for the resistors to change and what improvement in lumens it will show.

I totally agree with you memory with the ir sensor would be amazing instead of always turn on in high.

Thanks for sharing your mod

ImA4Wheelr
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Thanks guys. Sorry for dragging my feet on this one. Life is getting in the way quite a bit lately. Hopefully, I can finish the mod post (#6 above) this week.

You don’t have to open the light up to swap in an XP-L. A good XP-L will about double your output. You do have to have a hot air gun and know how to reflow an emitter though. Here’s how:

  • Just remove the, plastic battery tube holder, unscrew the bezel and and remove the optic.
  • Then just slightly push the LED’s MCPCB so that the body doesn’t absorb so much heat.
  • Then just heat up the small area around the emitter to remove it and reflow on your new emitter.
  • Reassemble.

See this post for a little more info:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/954242#comment-954242

". . . You realize that wasn't really a loss for me in Africa — it was a gain that I didn't appreciate."

- George Foreman 2017

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do you have any new info about the parts inside ??? there are still a few parts unidentified right ….

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Thanks for the tear down ImA4Wheelr. I managed with your help to fix one of these with a dicky switch. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Thanks for the pics, info, and inspiration.
Ashamed to say that after probably 100 emitter swaps I’ve never used the hot air attachment on my butane torch, used it tonight and it worked perfectly! I normally just heat the board up from underneath with corded soldering iron. I used your method of slightly pulling away the board, (wedged it 1/8” out with a shim).
To get the most out of those heat sink fins around the optics I’m gonna try to squeeze some thermal paste onto the board under the circular area of contact around the emitter.

It’s a pity the IR mode doesn’t echo the last used level but that won’t ruin the feature for me.
At work my hands are often covered in coolant, oil, and filth which makes me hesitant to turn on/off headlamps, this will be great when working on broken machines and such. ON/OFF with a wave of my hand!
It’s a harsh environment for nice electronics so I won’t feel so bad if this light eventually succumbs to the torture, at this price I ordered a spare.
Thanks again!

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Thank you for the kind words and welcome to BLF bansuri.  You're talented.  I tried to use a butane torch to reflow once.  It wasn't pretty.  I will need to google the hot air attachment you mentioned.

I like the lamp for the same reason. My favorite for doing dirty work like automotive repairs, etc. Congrats on the successful mod.  What emitter did you swap in?

". . . You realize that wasn't really a loss for me in Africa — it was a gain that I didn't appreciate."

- George Foreman 2017

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I had a neutral XP-Something that was pulled from something else.
Had to really dial the heat back on the torch, it will bubble the dome. Did a test on a board with a different emitter to get a feel for it. Doesn’t take much.
Aimed the heat off to the side but not at the light body. I’ve never really used it but now I can’t wait to do it again! May squeeze the opening shut slightly to allow for more precise application of heat.
It’s just a little butane soldering iron with torch and heat attachments, got off ebay second-hand.
I used the 70-01-52 attachment in the pic. I had also previously made an internal adjustment on the adjustable gas control to allow it to reach lower temps. If you remember the old Bic lighters that had an adjustable flame, it has a lever that rotates to reduce the flame like they had.
Squeezed in a little thermal paste around the circular contact point around the emitter, put some DCfix tape on the lens and it’s ready for work.

sedstar
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i’m well into the “long range” test of this headlamp? easily one of my favorite lights.

i was afraid to really try to get it open, cos until i get a spare? i do NOT wanna risk hurting one of my favorites.

i was at first put off slightly by the fact the on/off IR is only “hi mode”? But, after using it a few days… i realized that just like you reported its hard to “catch” the absolute lowest setting on ramping? its equally impossible to try to catch the HIGHEST output either…

so… IR on/off is my best way to know i am using “max” if i want to see across the yard…

you get pretty used to “catching” the LO-est mode, or close enough it’ll run forever… i have used it for HOURS on LO mode, and its great.

========================================

i think i am in the “camp” of just wanting to swap emitters. maybe a HAIR higher output? but… its no deal breaker… its actually useful power as it is. This light is an actual useful TOOL for me, and i use it a lot. Its not a TOY i want to white wall hunt and show off the 10 minute run time, lol… I mean, i just dont need this thing to eat an apple and sh!t a fruit salad, I just need it to “be a light” for me.

starting to think a NICHIA hi-cri maybe makes sense… raw power is not needed for my applications. If i want THAT, i would buy one of the many “star wars” head lights out there, with multiple battery packs and multiple emitter heads, lol, and make a “high power toy” out of that…

With enough black coffee and cigarettes? all things are possible…

I am currently still shipping… REAL GENUINE CREE xp-g emitters, the classic… brace yourself? as low as 20 cents apiece!! Check out the SALES THREAD, everyone is happy… then PM me

SALES THREAD:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52528

if you are into reloading? this is my site… I inherited the remains of what was once arguably the best reloading site on the internet… its the “BLF” of reloading sites…

http://reloadbench.freeforums.net/

if you think night vision would be cool? It IS… this site i am a member of, and its basically the “BLF” of home made scratch-built digital night vision. They are at the leading forefront of advanced DIY for digital night vision, and thats gun mounted or handheld… builds rival and exceed commercial offerings…

http://nightvisionforumuk.com/

ImA4Wheelr
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Hi sedstar,


Swapping in a good XPL should about double your lumens over the stock generic Chinese emitter.  It will also make the lamp run cooler due to higher efficiency.  It will change your beam pattern though.  The stock emitter is large and gives a nice floody smooth beam.  The XPL is smaller and will narrow and take some of the smoothness out of the beam.  I actually bought another headlamp that I keep stock for the floodier (and nice neutral tint) beam.  I use the modded lamp for moving around outside.


 


bansuri wrote:
I had a neutral XP-Something that was pulled from something else. Had to really dial the heat back on the torch, it will bubble the dome. Did a test on a board with a different emitter to get a feel for it. Doesn’t take much. Aimed the heat off to the side but not at the light body. I’ve never really used it but now I can’t wait to do it again! May squeeze the opening shut slightly to allow for more precise application of heat. It’s just a little butane soldering iron with torch and heat attachments, got off ebay second-hand. I used the 70-01-52 attachment in the pic. I had also previously made an internal adjustment on the adjustable gas control to allow it to reach lower temps. If you remember the old Bic lighters that had an adjustable flame, it has a lever that rotates to reduce the flame like they had. Squeezed in a little thermal paste around the circular contact point around the emitter, put some DCfix tape on the lens and it’s ready for work. !http://store.acradiosupplyinc.com/images/products/detail/UT100.jpg!

 

Nice info. I have a couple butane solder irons that are really great for when I need to work out in the rain or when I just don’t want to bother running an extension cord to out to where I’m working on something. I think I will order one of those hot air attachments and mod of of my butane irons to run lower like you mention. Thank you for learning me some stuff today. Smile

". . . You realize that wasn't really a loss for me in Africa — it was a gain that I didn't appreciate."

- George Foreman 2017

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Received 2 of these lights. Pretty nice for the price point. Output was a nice crisp cool white on both (thought someone posted they were neutral white). Stock output measures 1.25A on one, 1.29A on the other but the amps continue to slowly rise. Rear cap on one came off without tools easily, the other took some negotiating with a flat tip screwdriver.

Modded one to a 4000k XP-G3 emitter. Wasn’t easy to change out the emitter with a soldering iron! Destroyed the original getting it off and struggled to get the new one seated properly without the pads shorted underneath. TIP – scrape the traces wider & longer so you have a location to apply the iron. I tried from below, but couldn’t get solder to melt on top; finally just worked from the top (i.e. the front).

I also tested using a 30×60 elliptical optic from LEDDNA which looks like it’s going to work nicely. I had to trim feet off the optic and I’m going to need to watch screwing the bezel on pushing the emitter board away. I’ve not reassembled yet. I think this may replace my mule headlamp as my goto headlamp! And since I still have one in stock form I may take lumen measurements on before & after.

-Garry

MRsDNF
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Sounds like a nice mod gb. Any chance of some before and after night shots? Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Maybe. Depends on if I feel like it Smile . Being a floody headlamp there isn’t a lot to showoff in beamshots.

I might post some pics of the mod too.

-Garry

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sedstar wrote:
i’m well into the “long range” test of this headlamp? easily one of my favorite lights.

Think you were the one who pointed me at it. Now got 4… or is it 6? Gave a couple away, really handy!

sedstar wrote:
i was at first put off slightly by the fact the on/off IR is only “hi mode”? But, after using it a few days… i realized that just like you reported its hard to “catch” the absolute lowest setting on ramping? its equally impossible to try to catch the HIGHEST output either…

Seems to be a linear ramping, not logarithmic. So big changes at its brightest look like little to no change to the eye. Conversely, small changes at the low end look rather huge (and fast!), so yeah, it’s hard to catch it at its lowest. Takes me a few ramps up’n‘down to get close.

sedstar wrote:
you get pretty used to “catching” the LO-est mode, or close enough it’ll run forever… i have used it for HOURS on LO mode, and its great.

When we got the last big batch o’ snow, it was only a few inches up front, it seemed, but I got a big drift blown right up against the back door almost a foot high, which quickly turned to ice. Door opens outward, so it was completely unopenable. Gates to the backyard were similarly frozen in place, so had to go out the side door, sliiiiiide down the ice, chip away the ice on the stairs to get up the patio, slide on top of the igloo that formed on the patio, then chop away at the igloo to be able to open the door.

At night.

So even on its near-lowest setting, the good ol’ Boruit let me hack away at the ice for the better part of an hour with both hands, with plenty of light even on low, and I was in no danger of even remotely running low on juice even though I’ve been using it around the house forever on pretty much its first and only charge.

Funny thing is, I’m running an LG pull from an almost unused power-pack (digital display went wonky, so of course cracked it open to salvage the innards), so it’s not even a panny-B or 30Q or anything fancy.

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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Swapping in a good XPL should about double your lumens over the stock generic Chinese emitter.  It will also make the lamp run cooler due to higher efficiency.  It will change your beam pattern though.  The stock emitter is large and gives a nice floody smooth beam.  The XPL is smaller and will narrow and take some of the smoothness out of the beam.

XM-L2, then. Same chip inside as the XP-L, only a wider area.

Check first to make sure it fits the TIR.

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What about XP-G3’s? Better choice than an XP-L, neatly as good a choice as an XP-L2, efficient, and cheaper than XM-L2’s and XP-L2’s.

-Garry

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garrybunk wrote:
What about XP-G3’s? Better choice than an XP-L, neatly as good a choice as an XP-L2, efficient, and cheaper than XM-L2’s and XP-L2’s.

Don’t have any, and never tried ‘em, so can’t really say.

Imagine they’re not gonna be overstressed if a clone chinatastic LED is in there right now, so would probably be safe to say it’d be just fine.

Pound for pound, though, the smaller G chip would have a much higher current density compared to an L chip, so efficiency would be that much less at a given current. Doubt it’d even be all that noticeable, though, even if the numbers say 20% less efficient.

I’ve got no real complaints running an even smaller E chip (XP-E2) in a C8, so a G should be just fine.

 

Actually, I’m just looking at my un-torn-down light, and it looks like a regular XM-L2 anyway, unless it’s a pretty good clone. Me, I’d leave it as-is, as I’m happy with it as-is.

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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
The stock emitter appears to be a Chinese mystery emitter that has about half the output of a decent XP-L. The stock emitter did have a nice neutral tint and a floodier beam profile as it was much larger.

I’m only looking at mine through the TIR, so looked kinda like a regular XM-L2.

Is it really that crappy?

What holds in the bezel/TIR? Friction-fit? Glue?

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The bezel simply screws against the optic. The optic does have a ledge that fits into the bezel. No glue is used at all (thank goodness). It’s kinda tough to screw & unscrew the bezel just because it’s so small and against the rest of the body.

-Garry

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garrybunk wrote:
The bezel simply screws against the optic. The optic does have a ledge that fits into the bezel. No glue is used at all (thank goodness). It’s kinda tough to screw & unscrew the bezel just because it’s so small and against the rest of the body.

Hmm, will give it a try, tnx!

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Few pics of mine. Compared to ImA’s, I see my Li-Ion charging IC is a 57B0, but it should be the same as the 57B1 he shows. My FET is an A2sHB (which I’ve run across before and have replaced with an AO9 IIRC) and is in a different location. My board has slightly different labeling, and layout but I believe it’s very similar. Oh, I don’t know if ImA’s had it, but mine has a half-circle copper ring that was between the end board (with power switch) and the end cap I guess to help with electrical contact? I decided to solder it to the board so it wasn’t just floating around. Sorry, I didn’t get a good picture of this piece. EDIT – added new pic at end.

Charging ic board:

Main board:

XP-G3 Mounted:

Showing XP-G3 sitting up off the pcb (best I could do, but it’s working):

Two optics, stock on left, 30×60 elliptical on the right:

Partially Disassembled (showing bezel unscrewed):

EDIT – Pic of copper piece I soldered to the board:

-Garry

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garrybunk wrote:
The bezel simply screws against the optic. The optic does have a ledge that fits into the bezel. No glue is used at all (thank goodness). It’s kinda tough to screw & unscrew the bezel just because it’s so small and against the rest of the body.

Tried it, comes off nice and easily. I’m quite surprised. Maybe I’m thinking of the non-switch endcap? Recall someone had to twist the crap out of it to get it off.

Anyway, now youse got me interested in swapping emitters on that beastie… hopefully without letting the SMDs on the opposite side drop off like bugsprayed flies.

 

Ooh! That means I can swap in pretty much any 20mm TIR that I want to. Got everything from 90° to 5° inclusive. Big Smile

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

MRsDNF
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Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Thanks for the pics gb. I have had lots of these headlamps with only two being faulty. I assumed it was a crook earth as the light output flickered up and down slightly. Pulling it apart I assumed it was a bad earth at pressed in end cap. Put it all back together but no go. I wonder if the copper was added to fix this sort of problem as mine never had this piece in there.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

joechina
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The lamp is on flashsale at GB for $8 again. And you could try to use points as well.
Edit: $5,61 with points

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