Nice! No time right now to review thoroughly, but seems like it's all there.
You know what, you are 100% correct.
I must have got the pins mixed up in the schematic, since I made one then just copied it they all would have the same issue. Luckily it is a simple fix, just correct the schematic and it will fix all the ones on the back automatically. The front one I will need to rework, could be a bit interesting getting over that ground trace.
I will look into it on Wednesday. Please do point out anything else I should rework while in there!
Edit: Took a quick look and I think I figured out a way to flip the pins on the top 7135 without too much trouble. :+1:
Congrats Texas_Ace!
Nice and competent work.
BLF driver development continues…
Can’t wait feedback after forum members build then.
I dont understand any of it but can appreciate the work you have put into it. Nice. :+1:
Ok, found a little time this morning to knock out that fix. Ended up having to go with anther via to jump the trace, trying to keep it on the same side of the board was just proving to be too much of a hassle.
If anyone else spots a mistake I would love to find out about it before ordering them lol.
You said “3 fully PWM channels”
Have you and TK somehow figured out PWM on pin3 for the Attiny13, or is that for the 25?
It is for the Tiny25, I personally see no reason to use the 13A anymore unless you just happen to have them on hand, in which case they would be perfect for gift lights IMHO.
The tiny25 offers twice the space and options. It is a direct swap for the 13A as well. For the extra $0.10 cents is well worth what you gain for me.
Plus not like there is a learning curve or anything like that to using them, if you use TK’s flash scripts it will automatically sort out all the fuse settings for each chip. You simply order a different part and flash tiny25 firmware. The bistro triple channel firmware is posted in TK’s firmware thread, I will copy it here once I test it out with these drivers.
These can also use a Tiny85 on the 20mm and larger boards (the 17mm can as well if you bend the pins).
I personally still use the 13, just because I haven’t had a reason to “upgrade” even though I have two 25’s and three 85’s sitting in my box. I don’t really need PWM on the FET anyways, I was just curious
And that is still an option for those that want to use up some old 13A’s, it should work just fine with the A6 converted firmware you have been using as well.
If buying new parts though I would highly recommend spending the extra dime and getting the tiny25 though, Nice to have the option to upgrade later if something new comes out.
Yup, well done. Now I can take this off my to-do list 
Life just keeps getting better …
sixty ? did you say sixty ?
you need to pick up the pace pal
LOL, I actually have no idea how many I have at the moment, I know it is at least 60. If you add in all the small 9 led style lights it is a fair amount more but I don’t really count those generally.
I like the curmudgeon in you that says …“why don’t they all just work like I want them to ? ”
….If it ain’t broke ….Fix -it …
+ it takes 12 of the nine 5mm led lights to equal one real light
Well, it depends on what you consider a real light. For me, it would have to be probably at least twice that many. If you want ~1000lm OTF, you’d need at least three times (36 lights).
There are 1 or 2 little things that I have learned that you may or may not find helpful, but it require a bit more work on your part and I don’t want to start nit-picking against your desire. They aren’t necessary for proper function.
LOL, well I am not going to rip apart all my old lights to put these drivers in them, just the ones I use the most. These are mostly for the new lights I build, this way I can have a standard driver to build lights with.
Do feel free to point out anything you have noticed. Got to learn someplace. Never worked with boards this small before so there are a lot of learning curves to experience.
Have you uploaded to Osh/your fab to see how they render it yet? Especially with text on the silks, Osh tends to shift them around for some reason and they get all messed up.
Also, I learned personally and through Mattaus’ Eagle tutorials, a lot of footprints you find for the AMC7135 (whatever package it is) aren’t completely correct and cause a bad fit when building. You may want to double check the pad sizes/locations.
I did indeed try uploading it to OSHpark, far as I can tell there is no change from the design spit out by Diptrace. I just checked it again and I could not see any differences in either the traces or silk screen, except the logo looks a bit lower resolution on oshpark but that is to be expected.
I will double check the pad spacing for the 7135, I just redid the pad sizes yesterday with measurements from the ones I have on hand here after it was brought up by DEL. Luckily diptrace makes that easy and automatically adjusts them all if a change is needed. (yeah, I know I am hyping on diptrace but I would never have appreciated it if I had not tried eagle first lol)
I just checked the pad sizes and spacing again with a 7135 I have here. Everything lines up perfectly with a bit of overhang on all sides according to my calipers.
Maybe it is just an issue with eagle?