Ahh - the brass pill is screwed normally, CCW from the top to loosen. Take the bezel/lens off, and you might notice couple of marks on the brass ring - they apparently used a tool , like a needlenose to apply pressure on the brass. My slide tube was so tight, I could gently apply CCW pressure, and it was enough to loosen the pill! Yours is too smooth for that most likely. You could use some sort of tool to apply outward pressure, might have to drill couple of small holes in the thin brass ring to use as guides.
Yeah, gonna need holes drilled, but not right now.
Time to fire up solder iron for spring shunt.
Tailcap parts:
Driver close-up in tail:
Pill with bone dry o-rings:
Notice tool marks on brass? Were there before I tried anything:
Normally a driver, but think's it's just a contact board:
tail spring:
Bad news is not so easy to do a driver mod, but maybe there's a way?
Probably fairly easy to mod the LED/MCPCB, think'n XP-G3.
Good news is stock, the light is a keeper!!
Thanks for the pictures Tom, it is a refreshingly new design from Ultrafire!
Btw, you may not want to see the XP-G3 die in sharp focus 
It's an interesting one for sure. Gotta open up the pill - not sure how a full driver would work only in the tail. Might be a top deal of the year, considering it's features and quality for the price. Somehow though the tail is limiting amps. It probably does ~1A to 1.2A on hi - can't measure it yet till I figure this all out. It measures 3.3A with the tail cap off.
Just going through some lights of equal diameter and found that the old cheap Ultrafire Focus-590 (18650 light) tail cap fits/threads and works.
Still not as good as wire across the battery to tube, but way brighter than stock.
After I get the pill out, will shunt that spring and see if it helps.
Later,
Keith
Measurements, using an older EFEST 16340 700 mAh @4.23v:
Lumens on Hi: 357 @start, 335 @30 secs, throw: 6 kcd (measured at 5m), 155 meters
Lumens on Lo: 97
All stock, accept Nyogel on threads.
I was hoping for around 500. But for the price that is still a great deal. Thanks!
Is there visible PWM? This looks like a nice little light for the price…
I'm not good at noticing PWM's. I got it apart now - there's some simple electronics on the board in the pill. I got it apart: thin LED wires (of course), 3 300 ohm resistors in parallel between the LED+ and LED- wires (bleeder resistors?), one 3 legged SMD part which I can't figure out what it is, and a sealant blob that might be covering an SMD, but if it does, it's a very low profile one.
Ordered one
Curious to see how this one mods .
Is it high / lo or hi lo strobe sos ? PWM ? size of flood zoomed in. Best ones have a huge flood .
Reminds me of the edi-t t-11
Hi Tom E, what’s the diameter of the contact board and MCPCB?
Thanks,
Brass pill…NICE! 
Is it hollow?
Hollow does not matter at all but extreme power levels (longterm personal crusade, I expect to have convinced the whole of BLF in the year 2032 
)
Hi,
Is the tailcap lit on this light? One of the pics (about 1/2 down the page) at GB (http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_423439.html) seems to show a lit tailcap?
Any idea about what the parts in the pill are for? Where is that 3-pin SMD relative to the 3 300 ohm resistors, circuit-wise?
Answers to most questions, and then some.
Solid pill, and pretty decent thickness on the shelf:
White stuff is some sort of epoxy that is pretty hard, and fairly thin:
Suppose you could look at converting the tail to a conventional power switch, but you lose so many of the features like tail standing, plus the great feel of that e-switch.
tailcap LED described in post #8. I dunno what that 3-pin part is, but the 1 pin side is connected to LED+/Batt+ I believe. Can't trace the other 2 pins to anything - probably goes to whatever is under the hard white sealant.
Thanks for the detail pics, can’t wait for it, ordered 2pcs since first day shown at Gearbest, and still in transit, plan to swap the contact board with 17DD FET sand down to fit the pill and swap the tail with omten clicky.
Ohhh - there's not a drop of thermal grease under the very thin MCPCB (~ 0.85 mm), so that explains the droppage.
I'm putting in an old XPL HI V3 2B I got on a 16mm SinkPAD, reflowing the MCPCB to the pill. Upgrading wires to 22 AWG and adding spring bypasses. I don't want to lose the really nice feel of the e-switch.