Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

Yep, you are correct, I honestly tossed the second set of screw holes in at the last min and forgot they need to be 45 degrees instead of 90. 90 looked so pretty I didn’t think about the fact it wasn’t correct. lol

I will get that fixed later.

Or should we swap the screw and wires? Have a single large screw in the middle with the wires coming out the holes on the side? Doesn’t change much for the holes but you could go a lot deeper without hitting a reflector in the center. So then question then is a single large screw stronger then 2 smaller ones?

Two screws protect from accidental rotation during assembly with the bezel and lens.
That s why we went with 2 screws.

Nice work sofar between the 2 of you. The screw holes where they are probably clear the reflector cups already. We want the wires in the middle because the cutout (2mm deep) on the underside of the reflector must not be too close to the reflector cups, sending them to the side may cause a bigger problem than the screws.

Good points, I will correct the screw holes.

In the 4 led version I pointed the led wire solder pads, and also the screw holes in between two leds, so that the reflector cut-out and screw holes would have as much ‘meat’ under it as possible, in this 2x4 led version that is still possible for the screw holes, but not anymore for the solder pads.

Edit: thinking of that, as the thick ledwires need the (rectangular) reflector cavity, the solder pads for the wires should rotate with it, in other words they have to be elongated in a circular way. The cavity in the reflector can not be widened to the side because that is where the screw holes are.
Please think with me how this should look like

The thermistor circuitry can easily be placed between two leds, so that the crowded middle of the board can be fiddled with more easily.

This is an option but was trying to keep the wires as short as possible but there may not be another option.

Here is an updated version with the correct holes and touched up here and there. I also extended the solder pads to allow them to line up with whatever cavity there is.

We could do 2 separate pads but it would be hard to fit 2 good sized pads in that space and keep them separate. I could do 2 overlapping circles though.

ha great! No need for me to hurt your eyes now wth this last revision!

Looks great!

Overlapping solderpads probably looks nice (almost like 8 holes there in the center) and from what I have been reading of the software you use are also probably easier to add then a free hand shape.

Yeah, 2 circles is a bit easier, I will swap them out real quick.

Naturally this will have to be redone by Thorfire so they can make sure everything lines up perfectly but this should hopefully be good enough to show them what we want.

Lets try this one on for size:

This looks like a smart, elegant and practical design!
thanks, I can go to bed with a big smile now!

I think this is going to work: XM-size and XP-size leds can be used on the same board without compromising the functionality. Nice!

It may need some fine-tuning (like tilting the therm.pads a bit to make the current path for led #4 a bit wider), make a bit wider clear-outs of the tracing around the holes and the edge, etc.

And perhaps looking at this design people come up with more clever ideas (add XHP70 pads as well :smiling_imp: )

Thanks for the very helpfull drawing and thinking sofar, Texas_Ace, let’s let this brew a little while :slight_smile:

Please add me to the list as well.

Thank you!

Ya’ll are too quick lol. I actually noticed the thermo issue just after posting the picture and was hoping to update it before anyone saw it. I had just tossed it out of the way and forgot to position it properly.

I updated the above picture with the pads angled properly.

The entire board will need to be redone by thorfire as I have no exact measurements to go off of plus this is something that would be best to have them do the final design work anyways since I have no idea what software they use and they need to work with the raw source files.

Here is the design with .5mm clearance all around.

Yeah TA this was very fast.
Let’s see what the rest thinks.

Gonna update title and point to this ledboard design to make it easier to see for the rest there is new input.

Welcome to BLF!
and when I do the OP change tomorrow, will update the interest list as well.

Naturally we need to see what the group says, just figured I would knock out the obvious things while I was in there so people and pick apart the not-so-obvious.

Two months ago I have asked for a quote for the Q8 board at a manufacturer based on my hand drawing, and even that was no problem, their engineers just re-did the drawing properly.
So I have confidence that a drawing like yours above should be way sufficient for Thorfire to make a design with all dimensions correct.

Yeah, that was my thinking. Thats why I was not real worried about getting things super exact, just good enough to show them the key details.