Brinyte B158 mod thread

Subscribed, some interesting ideas forming in my head… :smiling_imp:

I see a lot of people use this light with dedomed XP-G2, but does someone try to use this lamp and dedome a original LED ( U4 ) in it ?
If yes how it operate relative to original LED with dome ?

I’ve tried it that way, but didn’t leave it. The LED that comes in it (an XM-L2) tightens up and warms up nicely when dedomed. But ultimately, the XP-G2 has a smaller surface area, so it’s beam is even tighter (when also dedomed). I don’t have pictures of the B158 with the dedomed XM-L2, but these pics with a few UF-1504’s (and a B158) side-by-side should provide a nice comparison.

A side note… the original LED comes on an aluminum PCB. If you’re going to drive it harder (say, with a FET driver), you want a copper DTP board. But if you leave the original driver, the aluminum board is fine.

No, I just asking about dedome a led, nothing else I don’t want to experiment for now.
I have HI V3 and U4 version and I like more HI V3 because beam is narrowed and it can reach more distance.

Hmm it is strange, so if I understand well you only dedome a led and do nothing more, and lamp warms up more than before you dedome it ?

Yes, dedoming alters the tint.

warm meaning a warmer tint , not hotter temperature …
cool white neutral white warm white

I don’t think so, he never mentioned colour temperature of the led.
As far as I understand lamp is warmer when led is dedomed.

Haha… It’s like the others said. Color temperature is affected by dedoming. Doing so has no affect on the actual temperature (heat)

OMG :person_facepalming:
I read some posts where people dedome a led, and I have never read that flashlight was hotter after that so I found it strange when you say that, but obviously I did not understand well.

It is not important to me if colour temperature changes, only thing that I want to know is a beam of the light narrowed and can it gain more throw ?

With U4 when full zoom there is nothing but clear hotspot ( square ), and with HI V3 there is a ring around hotspot ( square ). Is this also a case when you dedome a U4 do you remember ?

:person_facepalming: :cry:

Why are you crying? If you are white wall hunter just buy reflector light and enjoy on a nice wall beam pattern.

Aspheric beam mostly has those ringy imperfections around die. They can be eliminated… If you want pure square beam than use black oven paint or similar and apply lightly and precise.

I even enhance reflection around sqare (flood) in my builds and while it ain’t look nice on a wall I really don’t care for that. I really care how it throws at nigth an if I can get usable flood out of it.

There are even reflector - aspheric flashlight combinations out there with even more ringy beam like this:

This from your picture looks awesome :sunglasses:

I cry because that pic is result of ‘’dedoming’’ a led, if it can be called dedome, because I screwed up.
Original led was clear and without anything just pure little square, also a fabric V3 HI is clean and pure, and then look at my result :frowning:

There is visible some marks like + and dot also too many residues from the dome, it look pretty ugly. When I watched on YT about dedoming it was easy and fast, but in my case not at all.

Those are just common reflections. The dome blocks those reflections. After dodo mint it is normal. Your dedome doesn’t look bad at all shining on the wall.

Does this stock driver in b158 ( nanjg 105C ) work well if I replace HI V3 with XHP35 HI ?

Something like THIS ?

XHP-35 are all 12V, so I do not think so without an appropriate boost driver.

There are a few boost drivers but none that I have seen in 17mm size.

Here is a 22mm on KD. Or Google search LD-51 driver.

Also TaskLED has a couple options but they are large and very expensive ($40 USD).

Does any of you try a XHP35 HI in this light ?
I have one body and want to try XHP35 HI in it, but I’m curious does anyone try it yet ?

Did you read the post just above yours? Finding a suitable driver for a 12V LED in a B158 is apparently not so easy.

Ok, no problem, I just aks if someone managed to find it or to make it and to try it, I want to know how it will work.

Should have known about this thread before!
On page one there’s the problem of the floating driver board, which in my case caused flickering.

So i did the obvious:

Double (but a little thin) springs upside down.

I see a copper wire around the neck of the pill - is that a spacer to get the pill closer to the lens (for wider flood I assume)?

How does it affect the tightness/focusing of the spot?