Quote: after all your work to get one of these tailcap boards
I’m guessing they’re scraping the bottom of various parts barrels when filling those host orders.
Oh well. Given my shaky hands, I suspect I’ll ruin one or two, then be waiting and hoping RMM or someone else, finds reason to build driver-and-switch combinations for sale to modders at my stick-it-together level ….
Thanks for the info. This stuff is always fun to watch, more so the more it gets past my reach.
pilotdog68 wrote: Hey djozz, remind me where you get all these interesting colors?
djozz tests custom Nichia119 boards for sale translucent S2+ gaskets available for free
So far the most I have ever used is 3 LED’s. For my next one I think I will use all 6 pads. I just can’t decide if I want to mix red and blue, or blue and green, or red and yellow.
My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03
Major Projects: Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver
I’d suggest to build three in the above colors.
My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure. Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unkowingly paid for by a hard working wife. Free plug for my daughter. http://missymupsnails.com.au
old4570 "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions."
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Fwiw Kaidomain has several different sized translucent tail caps including 8, 10, 13.6, 14, and 16mm.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
I am in a similar LED delima myself.
Firstly, has anyone ordered LED’s from digikey? Any recommendations?
I am thinking I will grab these in a few colors to start out with, they have the highest MCD rating for the price/size so I figure they should net more light at low currents as well.
Next is color, I am thinking I would focus on green or blue/green combo as they should be the brightest for the least amount of power used since our eveys are more sensitive to those colors. Or is red just too good looking to pass up?
If guns cause crime, then pencils cause misspelled words.
Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys. -- P.J. O'Rourke , Civil Libertarian
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests
How I made a True integrating PVC sphere with no math involved
On the newer boards the power is so infinitesimal, just go with what color you want. Having said that, you could look at it from the angle that reds and oranges have a lower Vf, so they need less power to be as bright as the greens
I suppose so, I just tend to overthinks things to make sure I get the best possible setup, even on the little things.
Test it! Perceived brightness vs power draw at different input voltages
pilotdog68 wrote: Test it! Perceived brightness vs power draw at different input voltages
Oh I plan to, just like to know I have all the parts I would need ahead of time. I royally hate having to wait for parts in order to finish a project.
Then just get several values to start with.
Rufusbduck wrote: Then just get several values to start with.
Yeah, I am going to order some of each color.
No big deal, was just curious on peoples opinions for color and experience with LED models.
Every time this thread gets some attention, I start thinking about something I’d like to change. This time it’s to incorporate the header pins I got to use with the TripleStack.
So here is what I dub Rev5.3, Top and Bottom. The two boards are aligned so you can use header pins to connect them through the vias.
Top has Six LEDs, two channels, and two resistors for balancing colors. It also has a jumper pads to merge the two channels to bypass the resistors.
Bottom should be very familiar: two pots and the mini slide-switch to jump between them.
That feeling when you buy something and the very next day new updated version is released:
Lol sorry. If you actually ordered yesterday you can cancel as long as they haven’t been sent to fab yet.
There weren’t really any features added other than the pins anyways, so I wouldn’t feel too bad
They were assigned to panel in about 20 minutes from my payment and sent to fab. in less than a hour.
No speed limits for OSH park
What switch can i use best for the 20mm rev4 ? I want to use them in a solarforce l2p tail, it has big square switch original.
/ Just a Byte /
LanWolf wrote: What switch can i use best for the 20mm rev4 ? I want to use them in a solarforce l2p tail, it has big square switch original.
I am currently editing the OP over the course of the day, so don’t be alarmed if parts are missing.
Jumpers on the top ring are a great addition. For single-color tailcaps I’ve been relying on the pot’s resistance and just jumping all of the resistor pads together with a piece of copper braid, but had to be careful with the placement so it still stacked flush. A thin solder connect over such a small jumper will be much thinner. Thanks!
Ok I think I’m done with the OP for now. I tried to organize and simplify……. I think it ended up longer than before.
Oh well, at least there shouldn’t be any more dead product links.
Yes, it is much better laid out now and much more understandable. Good job!
The op looks great!
Did I read somewhere that there is a translucent boot for the s2+ metal switch boot?
LightRider wrote: Did I read somewhere that there is a translucent boot for the s2+ metal switch boot?
Alternatively you can use the finger cut from a clear latex glove. It works pretty well.
Read thru the post carefully and have ordered some Rev4 & pyro1son 16mm boards. I have also ordered my LEDs, pots, resisters and translucent tail caps. I will need to hunt down or create a transparent/translucent washers. Just waiting on the slow boat at this point. I have constructed 18 Convoy C8s so far. 14 of them I gave away as gifts. The Convoy C8 hosts I used were the version 3s with the integrated aluminum shelf. The tail switch uses a Omten 1288 type switch. The switch board is 16mm x 1mm. The ring/washer is 18mm x 1.4mm. I will share my results when I have some. I would also like to appeal to pilotdog68 on the creation of a 18mm Rev 5.2.
Fulgeo wrote: I would also like to appeal to pilotdog68 on the creation of a 18mm Rev 5.2
Thanks in Advance!
Will the following be enough:
Any suggestions for more pcbs (any kind)?
₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪
My YouTube channel
Any other PCBs? Hmm do you want to build drivers? There are a million of them to choose from.
I still have a hundred or so translucent silicon thingies for the S2+ which I can sent out for shipping costs. Even to the US it is just $1.70 from here (long live postnl!).
(that reminds me there was a request for them that I never sent, I’ll look that up )
Thank you for updating the OP. This thread was so big that I didn’t think I would ever get around to reading it. Bought some boards and LED’s.
[Back to Top] [Home]