Texas Avenger "TA" Driver series - Triple channel + Bistro or Narsil + Clicky or E-switch - The Ultimate open source driver!

I still use 19.1k for R1. I think it’s better, but it might just be superstition.

What I really want to know is, what did you use to take such clear pictures?

Yeah, I don’t really care myself, I have both. I just figured I would match DEL’s part list.

Funny thing is I was actually upset that the pictures didn’t come out as good as I was hoping but didn’t feel like dragging out the tripod and my “good” equipment in order to get it better lol.

The setup is actually pretty simple, an old Nikon D80 with an ok macro lens. For some reason my exposure was messed with by someone and it caused them to wash out a little. Luckily I always shoot in RAW so I was able to patch it up there.

The real key is lighting, I have a lightbox setup with high’ish CRI ring lights to light things evenly and properly. Lighting is by far the most important thing with taking pictures.

I want to get some 5000k 90+ CRI LED’s at some point and make up some photo lights.

The setting I use for a 220K/47K are dead-on accurate from the blinked out voltage reading for wight style boards, and the BLF Q8. Took a lot of time for me to tweak the table (2.0v to 4.5v), so I'm sticking with that. I did develop tables for a 191K and 220K for use in a modded MTN17DDm red board (diode in different sequence), but I prefer to stick with the 220K. Table values are the same for x10 (220K/47K or 22K/4.7K) or not - that's what's nice bout it. It's proven many times in the 10 or so lights I've built up and tested.

I guess they are a little washed, but mainly I was just impressed with the focus. It’s nice to be able to read the part labels. I need to start skimming craigslist for cheap equipment

I use 19.1k for anything using an OTC. Somehow it affects the timing, or at least it appeared to in my own experience and TK’s testing. Like I said, it might be snake oil, or just better quality resistors instead of resistance value, but now that I’ve got it in my head my superstitions won’t let me go back

Yeah, they came out pretty clear, could have improved on it a bit with a tripod but I was happy enough.

You really don’t need much to take good pictures.

An DSLR is a must, doesn’t have to be the latest model, heck this one is over 10 years old. I REALLY prefer nikon over cannon but that is a bit of a ford vs chevy thing, except for lenses, nikon is better.

A good lens is worth the investment, I love my 18-200mm nikon. It sits on the camera 95% of the time since it handles 95% of the shooting situations you may run into. They have some newer / better versions of it out now but that means you can get the older ones for cheaper.

If you want close up pictures a macro lens is a must, something reasonably fast.

After that a tripod of some sort, I have a few but honestly one of the nicest was $3 at a garage sale.

Then the real key, lighting. High CRI is highly recommended but most important is even lighting. For things like this you can’t beat a light box / tent. The lights shine through the fabric and cast a nice even glow over the item removing most shadows yet still giving contrast.

Oh, and shoot in RAW format and learn how to edit it RAW. It is so much better then jpeg/photoshop.

Texas_ace, can’t wait to build some drivers with those boards.
Just a question. Wy your boards aren’t using the zener diode? Richard’s red drivers uses the zener in 1S configuration. Congrats.

There is no need for the zener diode unless you will be using 2S. It is simply there to keep the voltage from going above 4.3v. You can install it all the time if you want, but zeners are not cheap.

Same for the bleeder resistor, only needed if you are using a lighted tailcap.

Texas_Ace I edited my post in the same time that you replied it. I intend to use the zener as I already have then.
I respect your work, and understand that these boards will be widely accepted here at BLF. Keep the inspired work.

In answer to your edited question. RMM uses the zener to deal with the voltage spike issue that happens with high currents in the FET. The zener would bleed the voltage spike off keeping the MCU from seeing it.

Since these drivers are using DEL’s updated schematic this is not an issue for these drivers in theory. The new parts fix the voltage spike from happening.

So you can use the zener if desired but they should not be needed.

I put them on the driver simply because I wanted a driver that could do everything, including multi-cell setups.

Now I see the point. Thanks once more.

Plus the zeners bump up parasitic drain on e-switch lights. I've been pulling them off, using the 4.7 ohm resistor instead, before the diode - has to be jury rigged in, however.

Great drivers and good topic. I’m not in programming but this maybe change my mind to build myself the drivers.

Great drivers and good topic. I’m not in programming but this maybe change my mind to build myself the drivers.

Thank you for the explanation. This has been bugging me for a while.

For me too. Interesting stuff. Ordered some 17mm and 20mm boards.

Glad that explanation helped ya’ll!

As Tom said, the zener is not the best idea for an E-switch light unless you can lock it out when not in use / have dual switches. It will slowly drain the battery even with the light off unless you lock out the light somehow.

As an example I have another driver using the classic parts list and I tried using it in a triple 219C. Well it works fine until it tries to engage the FET, then it goes wonky and shuts down. Seeing as these drivers have worked fine with lower current builds I am pretty sure this is due to the voltage spike although I didn’t put it on the scope to verify.

This is part of the reason I wanted to build these drivers, this way I can have it all in a single design that can be used with basically any light I desire.

Be sure to post if you order the boards and how they work out for you! I want to catch any possible issues early on, plus I am curious what people think of them once they start being used.

I ordered some boards and they are arriving today. What solder bridges do I need to look out for?

Well assuming that your solder mask is aligned properly, the only one I noticed was the via that was right below one of the back side 7135 grounds. Just make sure you don’t use too much solder paste on that ground and you should be fine. The latest boards have the via moved to eliminate this possible issue.

Obviously look the boards over carefully to make sure the mask is properly aligned as well.

Other then that just be careful to not use too much solder paste on anything, it doesn’t take much to get a good connection. With tightly packed boards such as this, less is more when it comes to solder. It is a lot easier to add more then to remove it.

Let me know how it goes!

Not sure if it makes much difference, but I always believed the 7135's grnd connection is both for an electrical and thermal connection, so the grnd pads should be as big as can be. Out traditional stacking didn't help heat flow much, but I made sure I always did the front center pin and back tab when stacking. DEL believes the thermal use is important as well, and had PD68 expand the 7135 grnd pads. Your board, specially the 17's, are jam packed, so I dunno if you got room to make them much bigger. Just fyi...