I must admit that I expected a better result, which is why I done it again with a second emitter.
Maybe it has something to do with the application of the phosphor & the dome as a package, & when the dome is taken out of the equation, it all goes pear shaped. :question:
Yeah, there seems to be something like that going on. I think MEM posted once that a de-domed XP-G3 has a concave surface to the phosphor. I dunno. With a total output (domed) in the range of XM-L2, and the die size similar to XP-G2 (not much different/larger), there should be no contest on throw. Here’s hoping somebody gets to the bottom of this before it drives us all crazy! (For some of us, that’s a short drive.)
Oh, by the way, thanks for doing this testing and posting results. Forgot to say that before! :innocent:
FmC test of de domed G3 in Courui d01 and Djozz test of very neatly sliced G3 in Brinyte should tell a lot…
FmC Courui D01
XP-G2 S4 2B de domed vs XP-G3 S5 2C de domed
443kcd vs 264kcd
Djozz Brinyte B158
XP-G2 S4 2B de domed vs XP-G3 S5 3A sliced (very neatly sliced)
320kcd vs 206kcd
And in FET driver G3 achieves maximum performance at about 8A current draw while G2 does it at 4.2A draw.
That tests are something that is very relevant to me. There is no magic that can improve that (well maybe MEM’s RA)
So in the market crowded with great lumen output emitters we got another one…. 
XP-G3
WoW! Great lumens per watts performance… :+1:
3 months later, has anyone done this? I’m interested which is more worth my time in an L2, XP-L HI or Domed XP-G3
Yes, I did measure the domed XPG3. In an eagle eye X6 with bypassed springs and a fresh 30Q, I measured 58.6kcd. An XPL HI V2 3B in the same host did 71.4kcd. The XPL draws considerably less current to do it, also.
Will the sliced XPG3 be a better emitter for a FET driven reflector? Like C8 for example? Than XPLhi? Or xpg2?
What about 3.5A reflector? The low vf should provide better light for the duration of the battery. Especially compared to xpg2.
It is still a smaller die than xplhi. Or at least it should be.
Sorry if I’ve missed this, but is a regular domed XP-L a better choice for “max lumens” versus an XP-G3? I’m looking to mod a second Nitefighter BT40S bike light (1st one modded with Nichia 219C’s - 4 LEDs @ approx. 2.0A each) and was going to try it with XP-L’s to go for more lumen output. I probably won’t boost it to 2A per LED though; think I’ll come down a little but not sure where. At 2A per LED with the 1st light my low mode really isn’t low enough and turbo is just for “WOW” factor and heats the light up too hot too quickly for normal riding.
Suggestions? (Sorry, don’t wish to derail; just trying to grasp where XP-L stands versus XP-G3.)
Thanks,
-Garry
Well if you are only driving it at 1.5-2A per LED then you are not looking for max lumens anyways, max lumens happen around 5A+
Far as which will give you more lumens per watt, well it depends. At low drive currents he XP-G3 could actually come out slightly ahead due to the lower VF. Although in the real world just go with the XP-L if you want may lumens. The normal domed version if you want flood and the “HI” version if you want throw.
Yeah I didn’t mean I was driving the light for max lumens. What I meant was which LED when driven at say 2.0A would yield the most lumens.
Yeah I’m wondering which might work better “in the real world” where with bike lights we have to deal with battery cabling & connectors thereby making it difficult to pull high amps from an 8.4v pack. On my 1st BT40S mod I had a hard time even getting 3.82A pulled from a pack.
I was surprised when I saw in the graphs that the XP-L HI’s output was still so high (lumens). I thought the HI version was at a significant reduction of lumens vs. the standard XP-L. I think in my application the HI might be too throwy though I’m not sure how it might turn out with the stock optic (optic is pretty floody).
According to djozz graphs the XP-L has just slightly more output over an XP-G3, with the XP-G3 having a slightly lower vF. I wonder if there is a significant difference in heat between these two, anyone know? Perhaps my decision will come down to which LED is available in a nicer tint. My favorite tint is a 5B1 (which I buy in XM-L2’s). I think it renders the most realistic colors riding through the woods. I don’t really like a 3C as I don’t think it’s neutral/warm enough.
Thanks,
-Garry
At 2 amps it is too close to call and honestly unimportant which one will give you more lumens. Worry instead about cost, tint and CRI.
I love the XP-L HI (when it is a genuine tint and bin), I use them basically exclusivly now days for me “real” lights. I much prefer the beam pattern and much less tint shift on the edges of the beam. They also appear brighter then the domed version in most cases due to the tighter hot spot.
That said I did just build an XP-G3 5700k 90+ CRI S2+ (my first XP-G3 build even though I have had the LED’s for months). I am impressed with how well the G3 is working. I can see this becoming my “cheap light” LED in a hurry. Only real issue is some tint shift on the edges of the beam but it doesn’t bother me and with the right reflector/TIR I have got rid of most of it.
It is putting out ~1150 lumens @ ~6.75 amps
I also have a high CRI XP-L with the same exact setup both using tripledown drivers. In the regulated 2.5A mode they both get hot at the same speed, now in turbo the G3 get hot faster due to pulling more amps but it also puts out more light then the XP-L (the XP-L on turbo pulls a bit over 5 amps IIRC and makes ~1050 lumens).
Honestly either will work just fine for a bike light, The XP-G3’s are a LOT cheaper though.
Does the dome of an XP-L fit under the optic?
Good question! Is the dome of an XP-L significantly larger than the dome of an XP-G2? (XP-G2 being the stock LED in the BT40S)
-Garry
Yes, much larger. it is an XM-L2 dome squared on the sides to fit the XP footprint.
True on all accounts. I wouldn’t even notice the lumen difference by eye between XP-G3 & XP-L. I guess another important issue would be the beam pattern created by XP-G3 vs. XP-L.
If it helps, teardown pics of the BT40S are here and beamshots stock here modded vs. stock here.
(Sorry, at this point I should have started a new thread!)
Thanks,
-Garry
Ah, ok. So I guess they typically don’t fit a Quad XP-G2 optic? So perhaps the XP-G3 is the safer bet.
-Garry
The teardown pics looked like XM-L2’s in the stock light? Or are those G2’s?
If G2’s then yeah I would just go with the G3’s and be done with it.
The issue is finding a local source for them. Cutter has them and there are a few local places that offers them as well, just not in a very wide range of tints and bins.
Or the XP-L HI. The HI version throws basically the same as an XP-G2 with less tint shift around the edges if your lens has an issue with that.
They’re XP-G2’s.
Good to know. Guess I wouldn’t have any issue with the optic resting over the XP-L HI’s would I? Hmm . . . or would I? Seems I would as there is no dome to rest the optic on. The legs of the optic don’t touch anything, just go down through the openings around the pcb. I’d probably just go XP-G3 anyway.
-Garry
Cree, Inc. has introduced a new high-efficacy (HE) edition of the XLamp XP-G2 LED, a progression that the company claims yields greater output and higher efficiency than its predecessors.
The new XP-G2 is optically compatible with the original XP-G – providing drop-in-ready performance enhancements to shorten the LED fixture design cycle and improve time to market. A new high-efficacy option is available, as well. The High Efficacy XP-G2 LED leverages Cree’s latest high-power chip technology to deliver 25% more light output via a higher maximum current of 2000 mA, higher efficacy and lower thermal resistance. Combining high light output, reliability and efficacy, XP-G2 is optimized for directional, high-lumen applications
I know these are relatively new out but does anyone know of supplier with stock?
Xp-G2 S4 HE 180Lumens @ 350ma XPGBWT-BE-0000-00L50
More importantly can this new emitter knock the XP-G2 S4 2B of its pedestal for king of the throwers??
Wow!! good god!! dethroned , its been lane waste, thank you so much for answering I have spent days reading posts and asking questions on CPF all to no avail first post I make on here an i have an answer , so the Osram KW CULNM1.TG is now the king for a super tightly focused thrower presumably the 1mm version? do you still dedome them or jut buy the flat version?
Been looking to upgrade a nigthmaster Xsearcher with a new driver/emitter combo & crelant 7g5cs this should be just the ticket