I can not resist
Trouble shooting help needed on L6.
This L6 worked for about fine for about 10 minutes on two separate back to back nights when it first came in. Third night it would not work at all. I did not have time to fool with it because of time restraints.
A couple of days ago I got it back out and it worked for a minute then quit. I took it all apart, cleaned / inspected everything and reassembled. It would not work.
I sat it on the table and in a few minutes it just came on and worked until I cut if off. But it would not come on again. This happened a couple of time. Then it would not work at all.
I have swapped battery tubes, batteries, & tailcaps from another L6…… but it will not work.
I took the head off and applied 8.25V …. positive to driver spring, negative to driver retaining ring…. nothing.
I took driver retaining ring off to loosen driver…. again applied 8.25V…. positive to driver spring, negative to where black wire is soldered to driver. It works fine, although it seems to be on Turbo only and the side switch has no affect when pressed.
All solders are secure, all wires have continuity with no cuts or breaks in them.
When assembled everything is tight and clean…. it just will not work.
Any ideas what the problem could be?
They are currently in stock at: Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
I ordered mine 8/30 and was shipped 8/31
Teacher, similar actions happened on my L6 when I first got it. I took the switch out and checked it, did all kinds of testing of components on the board and nothing showed as being a problem. I got it working and it has been fine ever since but at the moment I can’t tell you what seemed to make the difference. (memory constraints) JDub can pitch in if he remembers, I’ll read back in correspondence and see if I can find out what it was.
The issues mine had were related to the emitter itself. Strange as it kept the UI from functioning, but when I replaced the emitter it has worked fine ever since. (found the notes)
Teacher, check the black lead at the emitter, if grounded, the driver won’t see the signal, from either switch? I think I had it happen on other lights? Try it with out the reflector in it?
Hey all. I just wanted to mention something. I had a talk with Simon about the extras or lack-of that are included with the L6.
Here’s what I’ve worked out. The clear anodized L6 will come with the following but only when purchased through Simon’s store.
L6 Goody Bag:
1 translucent tail switch boot
1 translucent side switch boot
2 spare O-rings
1 quality lanyard
Again, at least for now the units purchased from BG or GB will not have the extras. This isn’t meant as anything negative towards those sellers, Simon just doesn’t have enough quantity of all these extras to supply the big stores with their big orders right now. This of course means whichever switch color you prefer you’ve got it all right there. :sunglasses: :+1:
Personally, I like the little added bonus for buying directly from Simon even if was not intended that way.
Cheers!
+1
So, when does Simon make the shorty L6 a thing?
1S tube, XP-L HI emitter, L6-sized SMO reflector, and dual switches?
Jared?
What do you think about my clear L6.
With an R100 resistor mod I get 7,13A in tail, using GB Liitokala batteries.
Very nice ‘Lfatman’, very nice indeed!!! :+1:
How about sharing some details on that color, I love it. 
90 minutes on the top rack of the oven, in gratin function.
Add salt and pepper to taste.
Bon Appetite!
Hmmmm, did your emitter work when powered with auxiliary power DB??
Mine does, when powered to the emitter itself and when powered to the driver spring with a positive (+) lead and a negative (-) lead touched to the solder blob where the black wire is soldered to the driver. It appears to be in Turbo mode at this point and the side switch does nothing when clicked.
But it will not work when the negative (-) lead is moved to the reinstalled driver & ground ring.
Could the emitter be causing this???
Thank you for the reply QB. :+1:
I’ve done that, black lead seems fine. I can find nowhere it is grounded?? It is cleanly soldered to the emitter and cleanly soldered to the driver. Wire is intact with no cuts and it does have continuity from end to end.
I have had the bezel & reflector removed during all this “testing”… no joy. 
…. Any other thoughts???
Thanks for the reply’s guys, this is beyond me. But if you have any more ideas of things to check, I’ll surely check them. 
Thanks……… :+1:
Did it start out Black?? What temperature did you have the oven on??
Any and all info appreciated……….
That’s awesome! Nicely done. I’ve never had the nerve to try the oven baking thing but the results can be really cool. The colors are all very even aside from the ring of course which I imagine was intentional. If you don’t mind sharing we’d all like to hear about how it was done. :+1:
Since black is still the only color L6 in anybody’s hands, with the clear ano version just now shipping, yep it started out black. It takes around 500º in the oven, or the baste setting, to get the orange/gold/brown color. On a well done ano like Convoy uses it takes longer than a lesser ano. My Convoy C8 took some 55 minutes as high as the oven would go.
Of course, you MUST remove everything from the light, o-rings everywhere and all that (somebody might would forget, like me) and even then it’s a bit tough to get the different thickness pieces to come out the same. I make a coathanger stand so the light is suspended in the oven and in a “standing” position, for whatever that’s worth.
While it looks uniform and even in the pictures, a close-up view shows tiny fractures or cracks, like a glazing. The ano is weakened and the light is no longer as tough as it was before.
Yes please, I would love to know the step by step details of how this was / is done. I would love to try it but do not want to screw anything up.
Hmmmm, I wonder…
Could I cut a piece of aluminum stock such that one end is narrow enough to fit through the boot hole in the tail cap and the other end threads in to the switch retaining ring threads, this to enable mounting an assembled light in my lathe. (all parts removed of course) then with it spinning up, hit it with a map torch being careful to distribute the flame evenly. Would probably be quicker and stinkify the house less as I’d be out in the shop. lol
Narsil would definitely be awesome in the L6. I want to see that. :+1: