[Review] Manker E11 XP-L AA/14500

Are these available anywhere with discount?

^
Yeah can it be bought?

on manker website or hk equipment

I like the regulation of this E11 with NiMH, very good!!! for 14500 I prefer the Mi7. Both greatest lights!.

Thanks for the Job!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manker-E11-CREE-XP-L-LED-AA-14500-Flashlight-Simple-Version-of-Manker-T01-/222135746300?var=&hash=item33b8527efc:m:mu2GT0dEYHSg68K1fga210Q

Is the Mi7 brighter than the E11 on NiMH?

no. Check the graph above

Graphs and pure lumen numbers are not everything :wink:
Check THIS direct comparison GIF between E11 and MI7 on High with 14500
from the german TLF forum (from user kj75)
For me the “winner” is clear, much better EDC capabilities because of much broader spill.
YMMV!
K.

wow… that was a big difference :open_mouth: .

Would this be the same for the NiMH also?

I have to wonder if the camera’s ISO, aperture, and shutter speed was fixed.

In this image Klarus Mi7 looks so much better than Manker E11. How come the difference is so dramatic? I like the looks of Manker E11 much better, but Klarus Mi7 seems to be a better light and much cheaper too (in real life, not MSRP).

Update:
Here is the same Klarus Mi7 review by kj75, where the animated gif comparison comes from, this time in English.

100% agreed.
UI, design, beam type, size, weight, price… all factor that should also be taken in consideration.

I have both lights, and the differences between mine aren’t nearly as profound. In fact my Klarus is less flood… due to it’s tighter hot spot it seems a bit brighter.

how about a comparative beamshot



Not only those parameter but also the focusiong: matrix, spot, weighted average…
I can assure you it makes a lot of difference for a thrower and a flood light.

Mostly finished modding this light over the weekend.

Initially I tried an XPL HI reflowed onto the stock star. This took just 10 minutes and made for a nicer tint and throwier beam.

Then I tried upgrading the driver to a 17mm FET driver with moppydrv.

Installing a new microswitch was a pain. The rubber post from the button boot is at the very back of the driver compartment. Not centered like in other lights I own. This works fine if your microswitch is a side-mount SMD switch. Not so great if all you had on-hand is surface-mount switches designed to mount upright.

I also found installing the switch inside in the right position was awkward simply because the light is smaller than other side e-switches I’ve worked with.

  • Attempt 1: Made a small frame for the switch and tried to wedge it in place with longer wires going back to the driver board. — Failed.
  • Attempt 2: Made a circular frame for the switch and pressed it into place. Once in position, the driver board is then pressed in place. Thin wires connect the e-switch to the driver board with glue around the solder joins to help protect the wires when folding into position. — Failed
  • Attempt 3: Made a u-shaped frame for the switch and pressed it into place. Similar to attempt 2. Double-checked all solder joints and replaced driver wires. — Failed. Switch wires or solder joins kept breaking.
  • Attempt 4: Same as attempt 3, but glued the switch into position before mounting so I could be sure it would actually click. Then folding wires and pressed driver into place. — Failed.
  • Attempt 5: Glued the u-shaped frame to the back of the driver with arctic alumina. While the glue was curing I held the driver together with the stock driver to eyeball the correct position for the switch. This seemed promising. No more broken switch wires. However, results were intermittent. Finally, I installed flexible wires to connect the switch to the driver board, to counter the small amount of flex during installation and when switch is pressed. SUCCESS! Finally.

After that I replaced the stock aluminum star with a Sinkpad. Had to Dremel the Sinkpad to fit. Replaced emitter with a fresh 4000K XPL HI 5A2 tint. Overall, I’m quite pleased with how it came out. At max power this light is VERY bright…. easily over 1000 lumens on a fresh Efest purple. However, parts of the head get too hot to comfortably touch in 30 seconds or so. Not much heatsinking in this tiny little light. I set the turbo timer at 25 seconds.

Not sure if I’ll solder-braid the tailcap spring or not. This light probably doesn’t need it.

Last night I changed the stock emitter with an 3000K 80CRI one…

and this happened!

Forgive the ignorance…but WHAT happened? I see two E11 variants at $30….is that a new price or is the 3D a new tint? Orrrrrrrrrr………did a hyperlink just automatically get added to your post because you changed out your emitter in the E11? :wink:

I’m guessing he put in a 3K and Tint was Toooooo… yellow…and now E11 is offered in 5K 3D nice neutral tint